Rookie

And not to mention only having half throttle won't make it brake any better...

Not sure about the revs, but yes you can use your carbs as throttles, you will just need to adapt a tps

Yup I'll third nrv.

Ambient temp probably plays a part too, but I would say that pumping heaps of gas at "high" pressure would definitely heat soak it.

Thriller and I made his seat out of a bit of plywood and some florists foam (pretty sure it is called oasis), easily shaped by hand and epoxy doesn't turn it to mush. Then if you want light weight take a mould and make another one.

Same here, mine worked great and never had any issues with fuel heating, probably the 75 psi that's doing it.

Also it isn't a k series or an LS so is isn't OS certified...

Roman, as much as I like your mspaint graphs and general ramblings about fuel economy, can you please start directing your energy and time towards something useful, such as making more power, reducing laptimes, or increasing the efficiency of turning tyres into smoke etc? Lubs Rookiedave

You have a NC relay instead of a NO one? Wait, that doesn't explain why it worked without the ecu in the equation. Have you put the multi meter on the ecu wire to see what is actually happening?

When I used to drive trucks I could get my Kenny down under 400m/l, lots of turbo whistley noises occur when doing that hahaha.

Lol yet again you have proved that your opinion isn't even worth the bandwidth used to write it sr2... Wait, what? Are you saying Clint that if you move a steering rack you can't get a cert? What about all of the scratch built cars, and cars converted to steering rack?

Fan car makes oodles more down force than a modern f1 car, probably even one from the aero era, and has no parasitic drag from turning moving air into df. Basically they killed a super legit idea.

They usually convert to a steering box out of an earlier model e70. As for moving the rack, if you just move it sideways and don't lengthen it at all or move it up or down, then there will be no geometry change but you will have to deal with being able to turn tighter one way than the other. We do this all the time at work and other than the whole uneven steering lock thing then there is no problem, and 15mm is only about an 1/4 of a turn on the wheel so you probably won't even notice.

Go EFI, you will save yourself a bunch of heart ache and pain, the bonus is your car will make more power and use less fuel. +1 on LC2, but I would go spartan instead of slc pure plus if you are going EFI.

I would check your base timing, it is probably a bit out.

If it was me I would machine up some removable bungs for the exhaust ports and use thick gasket paper for the whole lot. Super cool setup btw, good score.

This looks Fucken ace and the workmanship looks top notch good jerb!

The gear box is heaps better on the beams, it is also much bigger than a type 9 (which is what ill assume you would want to run behind a zetec?), the head is also better on the beams. Zetec Is much cheaper though. I'd have to say the sr route as well, for simple cost effectiveness, and a clear path for improvement.

Beams are dumb, and weak spec. Not to mention stock computer is also dumb as you need afm, the manifolds are ugly, and they dont make much power. I can see why they look like an attractive package but they aren't.

They are kind of shitty if you dont use the car all the time, and good electric fuel pumps are cheap enough to be a no brainer.

I'm surprised you put up with it this long, but good work making the car better.

That was a pretty womble spec post steeb, but never mind. Yes, tranny coolers are pretty much essential on slush boxes, hence why just about every one has one of some form or another. Air to fluid are the easiest to plumb in and cars have an almost unlimited amount of air too use as a cooling medium, if you are seriously worried about temps, ie in a drag car, you have a temperature gauge, but when towing is the only extra load then plumbing in an extra cooler or changing to a larger air cooler works well and is cheap. As for a manual box, if you are serious about keeping it alive you will set up sprayers and an electric pump and have its own system. Hth.

Pintos are only good as boat anchors,, we all know this...

Basically for cheap hooning build the same spec motor as I had in my Lotus except with a ported head with bigger valves, then your life will be great/ still really slow hahaha

EFI/ itbs/ Slides/dcoes, cam, port and polish, bigger valves, extractors, high comp pistons. this is what you will need to make a crossflow move, it is all costly though. Yes it is expensive to do it properly, the good news is crossflow heads are so crap that almost anything makes them better haha. 224 is too small, 234/bcf2 as a minimum imo. 1300 pistons go well but it seems like a waste to pull apart a going motor as pistons aren't too expensive. Go EFI if you can, side draughts at a pinch but they are pretty crap in comparison. it will depend on the extractors tbh, but they probably will.