Stu

Oh man that still sucks - good luck

Dude that sucks - surely the trademe guy should come to the party /lynchmob

Please somehow repower this with a hit and miss stationary engine

I will personally apply the cock and balls motorsport insignia

I keep telling you man, one rocker cover dazzle pink, the other one dazzle orange, cock+balls insignia

KPR's hire out rate is "1x hoon on your mum"

Fluro pink to match your handbag Will be greatly saddened if you paint the car, needs more fade/peeling I reckon Paint on some brake clean in the shape of cock and balls?

You forgot the mattyb paint and flames...

Hobb switch for the win

Holy crap that's awesome - can't wait to see this run I remember there used to be a few racing at Meremere about 10 years ago, haven't seen one in ages

I know nothing about those inlets but if the ports match can you just weld up existing/drill new holes? EDIT: Should read previous page first... I thought ACDC tig plus drill equal win but maybe not

Got that Link in yet? That one I had on the bench when you came over is in and tuned so have time/space again if you need a hand Oh, can swap that serial link again now

Like the progress - good work sir, good work indeed. Now skids!

zoomies...

With a tot of whisky. Nice work guvna

Club4ag.com has the pin outs which are pretty helpful

Sets base timing or limits overall timing or something like that from memory

What size ali pipe do you need - we have a CNC pipe roller here at work...

Rad - I love that moment when it first fires up! But at the same times its super frustrating when you can't just whip out and hook some skids

Turbo please

Hats off for perseverance given the dramas getting up to Auckland and back - third time lucky?

I would try and wind down the pressure on the center of the reg under the cap - leave the flow rate at 4-5 and see if it makes a difference.

Looking pretty good! Part of the problem you have with those runners is factory manfiold material is cast so you just about always get some contamination through the weld as the cast ali wont be the purest. Its best to almost just weld on the cast then slightly vere onto the extruded tube to drop the blob then come back onto the cast - that way your concentrating the heat into the thicker material (avoid blow out) but also gives it more cleaning time. Gas flow wise you generally shouldn't hear the reg flow much (just the flow ball ticking inside the tube). I would try and lower the reg pressure as I said above - actually post a pic up of your reg please. I'll try and take a photo of the manifold I'm making (all new ali thou). Its fun making stuff like this.

Should mark the tire position to rim and see if it torques it around. Man this is awesome - more awesome that a hoon on KPR's mum

A 2.4mm tungsten is perfect for those thicknesses - you can go up to the 3.2's for heavier plate if your experiencing alot of tungsten degradatuion but most of the time you should be fine. I've tired lots of different tungsten prep methods and found that grinding a bevel and leaving a small flat section ~say 1mm on a 2.4mm tungsten will form a really nice tip once you start. It will eventually form into a ball but I find that you get cleaner welds when starting out and getting the plates hot with the bevel - a ball is fine once everything is rosey. Stick out depends on the position your welding but usually I have about 3-5mm protruding. Cleaning wise I tend to set mine to around 60% but it does depend on the grade of ali that your welding and I've found this varies hugely between machines as some are build way better than others. The Lincoln Electric 205 inverters needs way less cleaning than the other machines. I can't stress enough that clean ali makes all the difference and I tend to use IPA for a gentle clean prior to welding but I never wire brush as this generally raises a gritty surface which can contaiminate the welds. As you say, try not to touch the work piece but fairly inevitable that you will. If you do you'll find after the big smoke out and you've coughed your lungs clean again that if you keep the arc going on the spot but back off on the pedal a bit it should clear and off you go again. You will need to clean away the smoke debris that circles that spot on the weld. Its a bit of trial and error getting the right amount of amperage to keep the arc going (which will clear the weld) without actually continuing to weld or making holes etc. You shouldn't have to clean the tungsten each time (you can if you want) as it'll clear itself as you go. Again just try not to - you can reduce the tungsten stick out to help avoid it but you'll need more grunt to offset. Gas flow is a hard one - I tend to er on the site of caution and use more than required but thats cos I 'aquire' argon and try not to pay for it. I have found that by not only adjusting the flow (6-7 seems to pretty good) but also taking the little cap off the regulator and winding that back with an allen key when the bottle is full (need to adjust back when the bottle is nearly empty) you can save alot of lost gas as you tend to get a big hit first that then backs off. It all depends on what your welding - with pipe I tend to purge first and same with capping RHS etc. As the dodgmyster sam wrote above - get as comfortable as possible and seated is best. Try and rest your arm or wrist on something while you get the hang of it - it makes ALL the difference. I'm no expert but have been welding for about 10 years and its an ever evolving skill. Back when I was welding every day I could weld .9mm sheet without too many issues (actually .7mm at times but not often) - haven't welded anything less than 2mm lately but still seems to be ok. Alot comes down to the machine - the Lincoln has a water cooled torch and everyone who has had a go can't believe how well it welds. /rambling