Roman

Yeah the thinking mans decision, its where you think "why the fuck did I cut my car up instead of getting it going"

That'll be awesome because how this car is at the moment rocks!

Your engine buildergive any ideas on what power output might be for this beast? Cant wait to see it all come together, and I bet its going to sound freaken amazing too!

Havent most people gone back away from the bike carb thing? Thought they ended up being pretty average for power / economy / everything but doort. (I am in no way implying that it's still not a valid reason) I drove Rot808s car one time and it was maaaagnificent Would sound awesome on a six.

Hahahah wow! Never seen those side wipers before, so cool. Nice work on bringing this all together, looks cool.

More modern toyotas have flexis built into the flanges by having a cone shaped gasket thing and springs in the bolts. You can get them easily in 2.5" 2.25" and downwards. Using one on the end of extractors on mine partially because I can reuse the gasket a zillion times when pulling motor in and out and it still seals. And a bit more forgiving to the exhaust if it scrapes on the ground or whatever.

Yeah we've made a few things like brake caliper adators already by drawing in cad, printing 1:1, checking, revising drawing, reprinting, etc etc then using it as a template to machine the final thing. Comes in handy later on having those cad files for if you need to make another one or whatever. However this time I was a bit stuck for good ideas on how to make it + keen to get on the laser cutting bandwagon. I've got a good idea now of where to start, thanks guys.

Aahh thanks guys, Rookie that looks like a good idea. I'll do some measuring etc tonight and see what looks feasible. Anyone got any good recommendations for laser cutting in Penrose-ish area? Or a bit further afield isnt a drama.

Weld it to the new bracket? Or the existing one.

Palmy Nats

Hey, My car has a 4 link + panhard rod fixing to a live axle. The problem I've got at the moment is that after the car has been lowered, the 4 link angles cause some annoying handling issues which I wish to remedy. The easy/common option is to buy/make some 'traction brackets' which bolt on like this: Which works for an AE86 etc because the 'top' hole in the diff bracket is the same size as a normal bolt hole. However mine is quite a bit larger, (Thats what she said / not really) like this: So I cant really use that second hole to locate it. Anyone got any good ideas on how to make something fit? I dont really want to chop the whole mount off and remake it, because both the pins for the shocks and also the panhard rod mount sit on the back of these 4 links brackets. (Annoying!) Current best ideas are to make a bracket with a steel pin or big washer type things that run through the middle to locate it properly in the big hole: Or weld a new piece on to existing: Any suggestions / ideas / etc appreciated.

I've gotta come for a mish down to yours and try on some of your wheels and see if any clear my calipers. In other news, giz some pictures of your diff setup / where the trailing arms connect to the body etc? Does your diff have adjustable positions for mounting the 4 links?

If you want another option / if this is any less ugly looking: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-860824949.htm It needs pretty big fittings each end though. EDIT: Assuming 16v 4AGEs are top feed injectors.

Nice work, was cool to see this out at the Toyota Festival.

Yeah much better!

I didnt get a ride along in this unfortunately, but it looked super cool seeing it out on the track at Hampton! All the best with the engine fix etc.

If your 02 sensor isnt reading then it will throw a fault code. Also you cant check it directly but you can look at the long term and short term fuel trims. If either of these are showing 0%, +20%, or -20% then you've likely got problems. On a standardish engine I'd expect the fuel trims to stablise at say 5% or so either way, that's how you can tell if it's working as these results change from the 02 feedback. Also just remember that this data gets cleared when the ECU loses power so if you're using a kill switch you lose the 'self tuning' that the ECU does over time via 02 feedback. The things that you cant check with OBD2 seem to be the fast reaction sensors which dont give you any useful information at 1hz or whatever... Idle speed control, VVTI information or 02 feedback signals change quite rapidly and as best I know cant be viewed directly in OBD2. Which is a pain as it would have been nice to be able to datalog the factory VVTI angles at full load.

This is awesome, love Fiat 500s!

Just watched the video, cool stuff well done

Oh yeah I guess that doesnt look too horrific.

No, the point is, where exactly are you planning to fit an extra intercooler (or two new ones at the front) and a big enough supercharger to supply the max rpm boost target? We dont know what car it's going in, but it's probably fair to assume it's same sized engine bay or smaller. Imagine if you're at a race day and you get a boost leak on a pipe that you have to pull half the motor out to get to... No thanks. I would say that generally the idea of switching between the two is that you can downsize your SC a lot, and actually fit it somewhere. As it's only expected/required to supply low rpm airflow. Dont get me wrong I loooovvvveeee gimmicks and twin charging has max cool points. The problem with twin charging isnt it's technical merits, but just fitting it all somewhere. A boxer motor makes a hard job (and ongoing repairs/maintenance/etc) a lot harder.

Free up a few HP worth of parasitic loss by doing so though? Hmmm when the main selling point of a boxer engine is the low COG, strapping all this extra stuff on top of it seems to mitigate that benefit a bit. And sweet jebus I can not think of a more horrifying clusterfuck of pipes and misery than trying to troubleshoot a problem with a twin charged boxer setup. I think I'd rather just antilag it and deal with the turbo replacement intervals haha.

Try this for OBD2 readers, works on my redtop engine. http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/92691-Working-OBD2-on-jdm-ecu!

Love em or hate em thing I guess, I find louvres to be utterly horrid. Makes a shapely sports coupe look like Nanas bingo run about.

To be honest I've gone a bit arse about face with my suspension... I spent $$$ on things like rosejointed castor arms, big brakes etc but then my springs and shocks are utter junk! Skimped on probably the most important parts which is a bit silly. The front springs are random items found in random Mazda coilovers by my neighbour, front shocks are unknown and my rear shocks are from a hilux or something. The front of the car doesnt dip - the back raises up. This was the first thing that I asked, to people who were watching it. It rides a little harshly and I'm sure it could be better while also handling better - it's on the to-do list. The front swaybar is 24mm I think, I got it made to 1 or 2mm bigger diameter than standard. Although it's length is a lot longer as it needs to go around the front of the Altezza sump. Not running a rear swaybar at all. Front springs are at a guess somewhere in the region of 6kgmm ( 335lb) and rear springs I had made to 3.5kgmm (195lb) The spring rates feel nice, a lot nicer than when the car was super stiff all around. But I think my shocks are what's letting it down at the moment, although I think 4 link angle changes will make the biggest difference out of anything right now.