CUL8R

Well, for anyone that wants to know, there's the Celeste that got sold lol https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cashel+Street,+Christchurch/@-43.5330752,172.6402977,3a,75y,248.48h,82.83t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sC867MVSUg8syczdgpvny6g!2e0!3e11!7i13312!8i6656!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d31898a5f07f99d:0x679a89cf5f0accd2!8m2!3d-43.5331008!4d172.6497982 There's a U13 Bluebird too

I'd thoroughly recommend Gary at PAD, or L&B Performance - Phil is another that can do it for you. PAD is Hub dyno's, L&B rolling road I Believe

Not too much help to you, but the one in my Saginaw box, was about the size of a hearing aid battery, on the Inlet side. I got it out with a pick/screwdriver. My power steer guy bored the pump out, and removed the relief valve - as mine was stopping flow going in - due to the AN fitting crushing it effectively closed. He mentioned they're more for when the box is higher up, to stop flow going back. Bit I figure its only a problem if the car isn't running.. Make sure you bleed the box with no load, full lock to lock (best to remove the pitman arm) - as full lock on the steering system may not be full lock on the box itself..

https://cardwells.co.nz/clutches/howe-hydraulic-release-bearing.html There's a few places that sell them. They're simple enough to setup - basically subtract the distance from the back of the block to edge of your clutch fingers, and the distance from gearbox snout to edge of bellhousing. Allow the smallest amount of freeboard. You just shim the whole setup to where you want. Recommend two hoses, one from pedal "in" and one coming back "out" so it can be bled without the need to take gearbox/bellhousing off.

Pete, I'd run a quarter master or Howe hydraulic throwout on the clutch. Very simple to setup, and I've never had any grief from the setup itself - I've blown seals, but that was after I had snapped a braided line when the dowel broke, which in turn wrecked the housing bore. Afco 3/4 Master Cylinder and pedal was all of about $65, for a manufactured pedal & bracket which can be either floor or hanging mount By all means pop over at some point and have a look in the tank. I know a guy that changed his soarer streetstock as he kept blowing W Series, 3 within the start of the year, R154 and no issues.

You might run into problems with the pump mounted that high. (unless you already have another low by the tank - which would then seem pointless) Looks like a Carter pump, they're a push type pump, not a suck. You'd really want it much lower and closer to the tank outlet for it to be effective.

+ 1 for the SU, someone else beat me to it. That or you could run a right angle adapter and have a sidedraught sitting "ontop" of the motor...

How should you measure the universal size? To get the 1310, 1330, 1350 Going by photos my STRANGE one looks like a 1350 but pay for me to measure up first Thanks for the pics

Thanks, have nearly finished assembling my Moser Floating 9" with Strange.. Finally got to take the 9" that I'd mocked up out of the car Need to find a donor driveshaft to chop up for the universals, or stump up the big bucks lol

Still got the gearshifters at all? These look far better condition than the last ones I saw in a paddock lol

Out of interest, are there any driveshafts that you're aware of that share the same universals with 9" Ford (ie bolt in with u bolt style) Im guessing Explorer or Falcon perhaps?

Depending on the model helmet you have, it might have a couple of fine tune adjusters inside of the helmet by the lens? My Cig weld one does at least, - as thats why I binned my old helmet, kept getting blinding at the start of each arc

I've heard of people taking chassis to powdercoaters (think industrial scale) to have their steel chassis stress relieved in the powdercoaters ovens - let it "cook" over night then slowly come back down in temperature. Worth a shot, and your item is a whole heap smaller...

Been meaning to Post, keep it up, really enjoying seeing more of the processes going in that would otherwise be passed by!

Correct, HSV's for instance from about '05 onwards run a 8mm bolt that you can wind in or out to increase or decrease camber as required. So for people without camber plates or adjustable bottom arms its a easy way to get some camber. I've also seen people elongate the upper hole on the strut further to get just that little bit more camber..

When you put the struts in, did you pull the strut closer to the hub, or push it further away - ie if you were to undo the two bolts from the hub through the strut, pull/lever the hub out and re-tighten, you can usually gain 1/2 to 1 deg of camber, which will help immensely at the wheel for clearance. Conversely, when there's load on it, and you undo the bolts then you can get camber gain from doing them up under load.

Chevettes and gemini's, piazza's have a rather simple way which I think would be easier again for you to adapt/make your own. The cable is one piece from one caliper to the other. It passes through the V block with a hole through the centre - this enables the cable to pull evenly, which it adjusted via the long threaded rod - just adjust the jam nuts either end to suit Hopefully the photo makes sense.

Thats fair moving Richard, glad you're getting some decent use out of it over summer!

Good to hear! Ive dealt with the owner for years even before he started the business and nothing was ever a issue!

I'd recommend Glen @ GRC car audio, Josh @ JC installs, Richard @ Soundworks. Have dealt with all 3 for years without issue. Last time I priced something Josh was the better priced..

Never ran a chin spoiler sorry

No decent photo's of the rocker cover, however you can see it here. I brushed oil on the raised parts. I just painted it and put it in the sun to be honest, two coats. Then wiped the oil smeared areas off to leave the raw alloy raised parts..

Just put shorter shocks in it, keeps it captive and the height you're at...

Scott @ RO Jones always looks after me and does a great job at a very fair price

Don't live by the park in St Albans/Mairehau do you? Thank Christ you got rid of that grill arrangement! Nice work, impressed with the interior coming back up as good as it has