CUL8R

Any photo's of it? Slim chance but one of my best mates had his stolen last year, they spent 45 min pushing/pulling it from its locked place at his work

Nice work. Motorbike chain too bulky for space constraints? / You've already done it now. From what I know of its the whipping that kills the chains normally - which is related more to the tensioners failing than anything else Could just run a oil pressure feed to your ECU, that way if it drops below x psi it goes into limp mode / warning light if you're paying attention Will you have a guide down one side of the chain, and the other with the tensioner? (Pic below is of a gemini setup, 3 is the guide (I think steel backed with a teflon sort've thing) 4 is the tensioner arm, 2 is the spring loaded tensioner

Nice work enjoying it already!

Lol nah, not unless someone took the cover off it, drove it over there and snuck it back without me knowing lol Waiting on some bits from overseas but cant ship due to Covid lol

Canterbury Auto Fabrications https://www.facebook.com/Canterbury-Auto-Fabrication-109161577328722/ - Ask for Wal/Warwick Rocky Auto. he's great with Old Cars & Carbs - took my Chevette there and refer numerous people to him all the time. https://www.facebook.com/Rocky-Auto-NZ-103950366868600/ - Ask for Damon

Must be getting old and memory failing me now lol

Is that the same Garage we picked the Personal 6/Cedric from all those years ago and dropped off to Thomas @yetchh ?

There's a guy I know down here with a Falcon clutch and pressure plate - he may have a flywheel too? Was running Falcon, but converted to HQ box Edit *He's sold now sorry*

Nice work, how was Gary - he spent a bit've time on the tank for me and got some pretty impressive numbers! Due to running in top gear with the 9" mine was managing to overload the dyno, could only do 10 sec pulls from memory. Didn't know he played with LPG stuff there, Suppose there's no reason he wouldn't though. Did you yarn to him about the mopar under cover he owns...

Ah whoop, sorry XF and EA/EB etc inlets are fine to use

If you were really committed, you could run the SNZ ignition? I think in the last car It was $750, easy enough to wire up yourself, uses stock AU and Crank Angle Sensor too?

If you're wanting to run Dizzy, you can use the XF Dizzy, you need to flip the drive gear upside down however.. Ooh why not buy this manifold also;

More details on this Ali Express Plasma cutter please! Most interesting indeed

There was another very similar I had seen, but cant seem to find it. My brother might have a CAIN manifold and ? carb if he has his old motor still?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2302900563345203/

Brake fluid might do at a push too. No idea what it would do or not to the seals - probably good enough that they'll swell and seal still

@Flash Have you checked the fluid in the dash pot plunger? I always used ATF or something equally thin viscosity and you want just enough that you can hear/feel it make a slight squelch noise just as the thread is about to engage before you do it up.. You should find that will make a bit of difference.

When the car is up and running again, remove the bolts and valve stems. Put the car in gear and have it running in 2nd gear. Then you can polish easily and efficiently to your hearts content.. Brock and I did these years ago. Yours will be easier as there's a little step in the lip to the centres. Finished product;

^ I run that Toyota one on the stockcar, no issues at all in 5 seasons of racing. I believe its also found on Daihatsu Charade's & Suzuki Alto's, and a Toyota Forklift

Enjoying the build, Cletus bet me to the question about plating Always enjoy seeing the nice fresh parts go back together Whats the typical turn around each time you drop stuff of for them to plate it?

I bought my Gloria sort've similar. No plates, however the car was previously registered in NZ. The old plate was etched into the glass or I had a old rego tag (or both I cant remember now) anyway, you need to go to either Police, or the Justice of the peace - basically someone with high enough respectable standing stating you haven't stolen it and believe you're trustworthy. Mine had to sight the car - and noted down the chassis or vin number? From there it was a very simple Recompliance (read, fancy wof) - Total cost approx $560 from memory? It sounds alot more daunting than it actually is. Provided the car is up to wof standard thats the hardest part..

Well, for anyone that wants to know, there's the Celeste that got sold lol https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cashel+Street,+Christchurch/@-43.5330752,172.6402977,3a,75y,248.48h,82.83t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sC867MVSUg8syczdgpvny6g!2e0!3e11!7i13312!8i6656!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d31898a5f07f99d:0x679a89cf5f0accd2!8m2!3d-43.5331008!4d172.6497982 There's a U13 Bluebird too

I'd thoroughly recommend Gary at PAD, or L&B Performance - Phil is another that can do it for you. PAD is Hub dyno's, L&B rolling road I Believe

Not too much help to you, but the one in my Saginaw box, was about the size of a hearing aid battery, on the Inlet side. I got it out with a pick/screwdriver. My power steer guy bored the pump out, and removed the relief valve - as mine was stopping flow going in - due to the AN fitting crushing it effectively closed. He mentioned they're more for when the box is higher up, to stop flow going back. Bit I figure its only a problem if the car isn't running.. Make sure you bleed the box with no load, full lock to lock (best to remove the pitman arm) - as full lock on the steering system may not be full lock on the box itself..

https://cardwells.co.nz/clutches/howe-hydraulic-release-bearing.html There's a few places that sell them. They're simple enough to setup - basically subtract the distance from the back of the block to edge of your clutch fingers, and the distance from gearbox snout to edge of bellhousing. Allow the smallest amount of freeboard. You just shim the whole setup to where you want. Recommend two hoses, one from pedal "in" and one coming back "out" so it can be bled without the need to take gearbox/bellhousing off.