cubastreet

drill 6 stud is the only easy way. or get some 15" Peugeot 504 rims.

advantage of being so small is that in winter you can just swap the led/cfl light bulbs out for tungsten ones and that'll be all the heating you'll need.

It's true that most of the strength is in the edges, but the walls are important too. If you take it to the extreme and take all the walls out, you could still stack them up high with a lot of weight, but as soon as you get any sideways loading such as in an earthquake the steel will buckle.

sweeeeeeeeeeeet

Can't see it being a problem but I don't do wofs (lingling) you could wire auxiliary switches in parallel to the original ones, then you could operate them from either switch. You might need to get uncle jake to drill some holes in your car to reduce the weight again tho.

giz a shout if you need parts, I service and restore espresso machines and roasters etc. I normally have things like safety valves, airlock valves, headseals, pumps etc in stock and get parts from Italy/Spain fairly regular too.

Spotted this too late. Giz txt next time I'll do anything for a cold ale.

cheers guys I'll just do the lot. I really cbf going in and doing it again if/when it starts leaking.

kk was right first time - pedal will be softer with less travel at the clutch end.

I've just bought a Mitsi that has a SOHC 4G15 in it. 150K on the original cambelt. While I'm in there is there anything else I need to change? Tensioner? Water pump? I'm really cheap and it's a mirage, so I don't want to throw money at it, but likewise I want it to keep going.

Make sure everything's made for R134A refrigerant rather than the old R12 to avoid issues. I think that's roughly mid 90s on.

Yeah the new Bonnies are pretty sweet too

don't think the vespa is cause for concern there

what about OS 2 wheelers, are they welcome?

The one I checked out at the scrappie was too wide unfortunately, so you'd have to notch the frame rails.

if you've got compressed air it's pretty good for cooling in between spots too. what motor you putting in it?

Love the van. Turbo 660cc Suzuki motor would be ace. Just remember to tuck your feet behind your ears if you're about to crash it.

Yeah I can't see shit. My brumby is under cover at the moment. I took it off the road so it wouldn't get too rusty. Now I've replaced the rust in the doors with metal it mostly needs paint and valve stem seals. I've got some parts off the one I scrapped if you need any of them, but freight might be the killer. -mint tailgate -ok front fenders -ok doors -ok bonnet -random other shit. I had Impreza seats I'd modofied to fit original rails but think I might have binned them when my mate gave me heated leather mondeo seats. PM me if you need any of it.

Yes, if man-puppy counts. Boy that sounds terrible.

Ignition timing? Start off by giving it a service according to the factory specs and see how you go. If you learn how to do this stuff yourself you'll save yourself a fortune.

my mate has an x7 under his house. bought it in chch in 2005 but burned a piston just outside picton. parts were hard to find so he picked up another motor for it, but stripped the cylinder stud threads or something. I'm still trying to get him to get it back on the road.

have u tested the coil that powers the cdi? could also be the pickup that triggers it.

Is the ignition separate from the charging system? ie does it run without a battery? If so, that's a good start.

I've used medium strength loctite on butterfly screws before and never lost one.