tortron

thats straight mexi-stance

Sandrails are road legal in mexico rules i hope you were paid well to drag that thing home

At firts i thought you were joking about jb weld and aluminium fixing thise holes. And i laughed. Then ibrealised you were serious and i laughed even harder. Thats awesome. Right out of a 1970s car repair diy video. Therefore oldschool approved.

I sold one of those radios for $5 a few years back. Nz market by bye i think? Period kiwiana anyway. Was thinking of this car recently actually. Good to see it progressing

because a car thief would know which wires to join up

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So i took the old girl for a drive from Hamilton, to Matamata, to Tauranga. Stayed the night, then took the back roads to Te Puke, to Whakatane, to Taneatua, and to Opotiki Had no issues, and it ran really well. Kept it cruising at 30-35mph, got down to 10mph in 2nd up the kaimais, but it didnt even heat up. Found two steep bits on old creamery road heading into opotiki, which had me in 1st, but she just keeps chugging. Think i used a tank of gas, approx $90 worth and just a splash of oil. Had the back loaded up with all the spares as i was delivering it to its new owner - my Dad, who plans on using it to drive into town to get groceries and to take up the back blocks on his possum line. Perfect town for it to be in really, lots of quiet country roads, no traffic lights, and little traffic Here is a link to the album http://s136.photobucket.com/user/tortrontortron/library/superpoise%20delivery

In my old cars its even simpler Starter has its own circuit so you can turn it over even if the key is off ign switch is only ever on or off and only controls the "go" parts of the car accessorys are always live. i.e headlamps and sidelights (brake lights only work when the car is turned on)

electric fuel pump? getting power and ticking? id check that fuel is getting pumped, then see if its getting into the carb (i.e float bowl) and that no filters are blocked along the way is the free flow filter an air filter?

Went for a long drive (high comp head, lightened flywheel. But no extractors or carbs) and she went very well. 150miles and up a couple of steep hills - the kaimais. Handles very well, as it should with all the steering and suspension rebuilt. Not even a hair of slack or wobble in the steering wheel at open road speeds. Can get up the kaimais in 3rd if theres nothing in the way to slow you down. Doesnt quite have the oomph to overtake the slower trucks. Will cruise nicely at 4000RPM in 4th (going from t he manual 4400 is peak power, shifting at about 5000 seems about right to keep the power up). Cant quite squeeze the extra 500RPM out in 4th at this stage. With these shorter tyres this gives me a top speed of about 57mph at 4000rpm (assuming i could achieve the same rpm with original sized tyres i would be at about 62mph at this point, so an extra mph or 2 on the top speed). Current performance 1st 18mph larger tyres:19.5 2nd 31mph larger 33mph 3rd 46mph larger 54.56 4th at 4000rpm 57mph larger 62 Theoretical top speed:4000rpm 67mph, 4500rpm 75mph, 5000rpm 83mph (with original aspect tyres) - Speedo only goes up to 80 too, not that id want to do that sort of speed in this. 100kph crusing is more than enough I should really time how fast it takes as well, the lightened flywheel and shaved head seem to have increased low down power and acceleration, i do notice a 3rd gear flatspot, so adjusting the driving style is needed (as mentioned in the old tuning articles). No doubt with the carbs and extractors i will be seeing some improvements, which can only get better after the engine is freshened up.

The axles in these are stronger than the early a-series Have an AMR500 to go on at somepoint. Will be a while. Want a full engine rebuild before that(or after is maybe a more likely event) I would only run low low boost, and mainly use it to keep the oil in, haha The old kits were supposed to double the power and half the acceleration time

short vid

Turns out its reasonably quick if you keep it in the powerband.

Yea, its neat. Tho i may consider a hidden electric one in the future So it does, just went and blew on both ends of the bottle fitting and it only goes 1 way. Good point, it will probably be the same if not slightly lower than it would be in the engine bay. I think that any major loss would probably be from the tubing walls flexing. Will have to go get several meters of tubing and mock it up i suppose

Say i mount a water reservoir in my boot. Is a hand pumped washer pump up to the task of pulling it along circa 3m of tube? I think a check valve may be useful here to you dont have to pump it a million times? I have a cool old glass Trico reservoir, hand pump, and the retro nozzles (going to mount them where my visor centre goes, save drilling more holes) Want to use it, but its too big and looks silly in my engine bay i.e it probably holds a little over 1L and my engine is sub 1L

The 3rd gear flatspot is quite noticeable now, however it seems if you just give it some welly up till 4th everything is gravy Acceleration is still laughable in modern traffic, but given an extra second or 2 i can keep up. So much difference than driving the commer, its almost silent (except for the exhaust out the back) and there are no vibrations. The steering wheel doesnt even wobble around. i dont think i like this modern motoring

oh gay, im going to be carless and probably out of town

Brakes were actually 100/60 - 33% difference -Pedal rubber replaced -Windscreen wiper had been bodged at the wiper hinge. I bodged it better. Tested with a spray bottle - leaves a perfect clean sweep every time -Adjusted the door catch. New door rubbers on this, so will have to keep adjusting it till it beds in -Stuck on 2 reflectors each side of the number plate. ruins my sweet rear lines but will work till i change it -Rear imbalance - Looks like the pads have bedded in a little and i could get 1 more click on the right rear adjuster. This should sort it -Tyres. I measured both and they dont seem to have less than 1.5mm tread depth at any point, The bulge im not too sure about either, i dont see one popping out. Will go get a second opinion on those.

should have bought my mums ex NZR bedford repowered with Isuzu/spam - it seems to get its brakes rebuilt every 6 months Love watching house buses get built up.

First WOF test since 2009.... No brake pedal rubber (its sitting on the back seat actually) Windscreen wiper arms arnt great - may contest that, they are as bad as standard rear passenger door doesnt latch closed correctly no rear reflectors - brake lights dont have them inside, just the tiny one on the rear badge. hasnt been brought up before, have stuck some ugly ones on the numberplate surround anyway. Both rear tyres stuffed (one has a bulge and the other is just under the limit) I have 3 spares but probably they are all stuffed too. Infact i thought the fronts were worse than the rears, my 30 year old crossplys live again. rear brake imbalance (100/30) gay. gay. gay. gay will pull it off again and see what the deal is. Park brake is real good tho

Yea this one would push 60 (im guessing, the speedo needle waves as much as any minor) Iv only taken it up and down out block roads which have speed islands errywhere. No doubt itl get up to speed once im on the open road, im not really getting it out of 3rd around here

Just doing some maintenance on this. Look in the gearbox, oil looks a bit low but ok, drain it out and will replace. Nope its half water, it looks like the top cover was slighly loose and water has run down into it somehow. No bad noises or anything i could see wrong (probably happened within the last month, screen has been leaking from the last time i opened it) Topped it back up with some premium EP oil and i think we are ok. must have been that noise i heard, cant imagine the bearings liked it. Went to attend to the throw out bearing lubricator (copper pipe and flex hose with a grease nipple going down to the clutch) The P.O. mentioned it was broken and needed replacing (the lubricator) but it looked fine to me, gave it a few squirts of grease a couple of years ago (havnt done many miles since). Funny, i recall its clutch started slipping a bit back then, but eventually came right. gave the flex line a tug and it has snapped off inside the bell housing, so basically last time i was applying grease directly to my clutch. HaHa oh man i love old cars. Will have to be a gearbox and bell housing out job to attend to that, and its bloody heavy. So for now im gona try jam a grease nozzle into the bit of hose thats left. Want to go on a "weekend" away with this tomorrow. Will bring camping gear and a gas cooker + thermos of tea and hope for the best (also im taking a full tool kit like i always do, several Litres of oil, spare fuel, jerry can of water, and a spare carb, fuel pump, distributor parts and various nuts and bolts. Its pretty much a rolling workshop) Keep on trundling Edit: Im also not concerned about that little bit i found sitting by the starter, chances are it slipped down between the floor panels and went in the huge inspection window in the bell housing, i can fit my hand in there!

yea i checked it when i had the crank pull out. Its slow, but not unusually so

130psi across all cylinders, negligible difference squirted some oil down the plug holes, got it all over the valves tho, so not very accurate as to rings or valves i suppose 150 psi across all cylinders, not too many percent higher. Went to set the headlamps a few days ago. turns out all the adjustment screws are rounded off and bent. Just replaced them all with stainless cap screws. Lush

Will anneal and be way too soft, real thick.pipe sounds kinda poppy too