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Everything posted by tortron

  1. Gives all the edges a thicker rounder look.
  2. If I have to cert it I will probably put a disco potato on, for safety They joy of a popular engine base
  3. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0806-turp-project-low-buck-sr20de/
  4. Bought an Sr20 manual conversion Comes with everything needed
  5. I almost had you You never had your gold card
  6. Every single bolt cut to length, necked and drilled out is the least I expect
  7. Might be the throttle pedal is bent. They usually are after 20 years of mashing it into the floor
  8. Have someone put the gas pedal to the floor (while car is off and parked) and have a look if the throttle is opening all the way
  9. are there any plugs that the 12v systems and 5v systems share? just comes to mind as thats what hyundai key fobs use, the 12v to the ign and 5v to the sensor ring share the same plug and they fail because the plug is built for 12v, so when it gets a bit of corrosion on it the 5v gets iffy, working sometimes, sometimes needing a jiggle. Fix is to cut the wires and solder the 5v signal together
  10. Does it need the shoulder? https://www.theboltholder.co.nz/view-product/b7--b8m-studs---nuts/78-x165-unc-b7-stud-bar2h-nuts-bl
  11. Anyone know valve clearance for Honda g20 engine? Seems a bit too jdm to have any info online. Somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2 seems to be the vague answers for any Honda, weird I guess Honda owners just put farty exhausts on and call it done Under hood stickers don't seem to have it, was Honda kind enough to cast it into the engine somewhere? I'm going to replace the cam tower Orings as there's oil coming into the spark tubes (along with replacing the actual plug seals) If not I guess I will measure them before and set it back to whatever makes sense I'm saw somewhere the g20 was based on an f series engine with an extra jug on the end. But I can't find data for that either Might even be hydraulic
  12. Looks so rad with the slicks late night city lights photoshoot plz
  13. You can get them fairly cheap used exworkshop,
  14. Put tape over those fog light grills and as much of the grill as possible Get those hypermiles
  15. Lol I have said that before
  16. Yeah 14s In vauxhall 5 stud Be nice if the trailer was lower for lots of reasons, but itl be fine $700 and half an hour wait gets one of these on a rav4, which are known for their towing prowess
  17. Might stain the lhs plate light bit red Quite like the LEDs on the guards
  18. Can't go wrong with a starret
  19. rusti claims to have a hood ornament off a staff car, but wont put it on his doodlebug for some reason
  20. dunno, but it must have machine guns, theres sights on the hood
  21. I'm not sure how the rav wires the tweeter and speakers in the doors, there's just the 2 wire RF+ RF- out of the head unit (i then have a head unit to Toyota adapter plug) That goes into the dash spaghetti and to the door and then that seems to run through the tweeter which has 4 wires (2 green 2 blue) and to the speaker kgreen and blue) I assume there's a frequency filter in there? Looks like the speaker piggy backs off the tweeter wiring
  22. OK I think I'm gerring somewhere Opened up the head-unit and it all looked fine. Unplugged and replugged all the ribbons for good luck. Put it back in and no change. Pulled the drivers door panel as that's where most of the noise seems to come from. If I unplug the speaker it's fine. Actually it doesn't seem to be putting out any sound now when it's plugged in, but when plugged in the screaching starts within a minute. I assume it's fried/shorting out? It's riveted in of course, so will eventually get around to replacing. Will leave unplugged for now/forever
  23. *seems to do it through the tweeters mainly, high pitched scream through them Volume drops out of the front and rear door speakers, can still hear radio through them but some static If I mute the radio it stops
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