Nominal

Seems plausible: To permanently magnetize metal you need to heat the metal past its Curie Point and the allow it to cool within a strong magnetic field. Items needed: 1. Strong Electromagnetic coil. See http://education.jlab.org/qa/electromagnet_02.html for instructions on how to make one from a car battery. 2. An IRON rod. Different metals require different heat. These instructions assume that you're using iron. (NOT STEEL). 3. A propane torch. 4. Protective gear (fire extinguisher, safety goggles, flameproof gloves, tongs, FIRE EXTINGUISHER, etc) 5. Infrared (touchless) thermometer capable of measuring at least 800C/1500F Setup In a room with proper ventilation, with a cement or or other non-flammable floor, setup the magnetic coil. The coil should be large enough for the iron rod to pass through easily without touching. The iron rod will be heated, and that will most likely damage the insulation on the wire. Please keep in mind that the coil may end up being a one-time use item. Procedure: Activate the electromagnetic coil. Begin heating the iron rod. It will begin to glow red hot. Using the thermometer heat it well above 770C / 1420F, its Curie point. Once heated, it will loose all magnetic properties. If you were to try and stick a magnet to it, it would simply fall off (and at that temperature, possibly damage the magnet!) Quickly place it within the (activated) electromagnetic coil and allow it to cool within the coil. You now have a permanently magnetized piece of iron. I've read other answers that indicate you can rub a magnet on iron, or just put in an electromagnetic coil, but these only temporarily magnetize the item. A degaussing coil or strong magnetic field will disrupt them. The key here is heating to the Curie point..very important. PS - this will not be as strong as Neodymium or 'rare-earth' magnets. Those are made by compressing tiny inherently magnetized particles and then coating them to keep them intact. But it should stay permanent even in the presence of other magnetic fields. Source(s): http://education.jlab.org/qa/electromagnet_02.html http://www.howeverythingworks.org/page1.php?QNum=1109 http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=ES&hl=es&v=X8ZHQQUusGo

^ That could work as it is kept cool, and the welding current (I assume it was electric welding) would induce a magnetic field. Are the magnetic pieces removeable? If so they could be remagnitised with a coil of wire around them and a DC current in the correct direction. I have a demag do-day made from an AC transformer. This works because the current switches back and forward leaving no residual as you move the thing away.

Heating is usually bad for magnets.

Dreamy!

?

Bargain!

I hardly ever fill my Minor tank up for exactly that reason.

You never know where that camshaft has been....!

Work to begin on Otaki Gorge slip Saturday 19 Mar 2016 5:56 a.m. A large amount of earth is about to be moved to restore access to a popular camping and picnic spot north of Wellington. Otaki Gorge Rd was closed late last year after cracks were found in rocks, preventing access to Otaki Forks and the Department of Conservation Otaki Forks Campsite where as many as 300 people stay on summer nights. Kapiti mayor Ross Church says contractors are expected to begin work to clear and stabilise the area at Blue Bluff within the next two weeks. A mass of rock and other debris will need to be removed to allow the hillside to be stabilised. "Clearly it's important for the property owners and the Department of Conservation staff who have been cut off by the slip. It's also good news for the many people who have been missing the tramping, camping and other outdoor activities on offer in the Tararua Forest Park." Mr Church says the work could take two to three months and has an estimated price tag of $500,000, almost half of which will be covered by a contribution from the NZ Transport Agency's emergency works fund.

On shocks, there is an online Monroe catalog that is handy for swap sourcing. http://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html On valves, there is very likely to some stock valve that fits, or can be cut down to fit. If you are really stuck, there is always the custom approach http://www.ferrea.com/custom_valves.php

Could be a thing that I would attend.

Super-nice.

Acquired some new 4WD-spec shocks (thanks CDL) and got them fitted - they definitely have more 'grunt' than the Nissan Urvan ones that I put on (new) last year, However, one side is now leaking after a short (but bumpy) test drive. These are specced for LJ70 Landcruiser front, so I thought would be strong enough not to blow a seal? Engine will only run on 7 cylinders right now, which needs investigation. PS is noisy, and the air bag compressor needs to be removed and checked. 9 days to Beach Hop departure..... Noticed this critter scaling the Nibbler. It was dead/crispy though, so maybe the leaking oil did something bad?

Looks like it's coming along nicely. Good work on the rust repair.

Skid pics please (although best not do that at BH)

Until relatively recently there was no legal path at all to getting black plates back on a car, so it is better than it used to be - thanks to the VCC I suppose. Best to be 'buyer beware' if you buy a dereg car. Otherwise keep your own rego's on hold and avoid the whole issue.

I guess you could cough up for the matching PP, and swap to the black plates once legalled. Spendy way to go though.

I used the weighted needle thing and set the diff face angle to be the same as the gearbox flange angle (gearbox points down, diff nose points up). Seems to work OK.

Al, you could use mine for a week or so. Transport might be a bit tricky - I'll see if I can get it into the car tomorrow. Gas is a bit low but I have a BOC account.

Anyone bringing a DeLorean?

The plating man wouldn't do the fuel tank as-is as tanks don't plate well. So, I cut the top out of it and dropped it off this week. I'll have to weld it back together which will damage some of the plating, but should be an improvement overall. I also welded plate over the bottom of the pump mounting threads - one less place that has to be sealed. Found this old pic of one of the diff donors. The dude I bought it off drove it up from Waikanae like this, holes and all. Might have been dark. I thrashed it around the paddock a bit, but it was easy to get stuck, and caught on fire once (too much easy-start) so I eventually pulled the rear axle and scrapped the remains.

Cut some new metal. Also need two new reinforcing rings that mount the headlight. Rust city. Scratch up some 3mm plate Cutting this stuff is a bit of a workout for the Nibbler, but it is quicker/cleaner than using a grinder with cutting wheel, especially for curved bits. Need to be hammered flat then welded into rings.

Get 'cher wagon out and play with it!

The flattened tubes probably aren't hurting too much.