ProZac

Looking freaking awesome Hunted, lub it.

Soooo, things took an interesting turn... A complete almost running clubman popped up on the local auction site. I had a cheeky low bid... Then got thinking about it, and dcided to go have an actual looks. It turned out to be pretty solid, and miles better than what i was starting with... Decided i'd have real go at buying it... Which turned out to not be needed, as my cheeky low bid met the reserve and won the auction, score! Seller said the only reason it wouldn't start was because of a siezed starter. Got it home, swapped the starter out, and it was cranking over nicely, but still wouldnt start. Checked the 3 crucial items, had comression, spark, but wasen't sure of fuel. Pouring some fuel down the carb got it to fire up and run for a few seconds, then die. I syphoned the old gas out of the tank and lines, filled with frech stuff, and still no-go. Well, but be a dickey carb then, probably all gunked up considering it hasen't been run in a couple of years. Took the carb apart, cleaned, re-kitted, and slapped it back on. After priming, it fired right up, SCORE! Needs a tune, but seems to go okay so far. Warmed it up, popped in some engine flush and changed the oil/filter, jobs a good-un! Whats missing in this picture then? carb all cleaned up, was in pretty good nick, just varnished up. back together and running

I'm pretty sure that while starion and sigma crossmembers look very similar, they are slightly different. I've heard of people using sigma crossmembers instead of starion ones (in both starions and EX Lancers) when doing twin-cam conversions, because you gain a little bit of clearance between the cam angle sensor and bulkhead... I'e the sigma crossmember sits the motor slightly further forward. (its only mm's though). I used the the EX draglink, starion tie-rods and a 1600 ex lancer crossmember, all went together fine. Good think about the lancer draglinks? No balljoints built into them like the starion ones. Yay. Those starion ones are all fucked by now, the NOS supply has all been sold, and re-building them is expensive!

Wow, you have been busy haven't you .

Also, Bling didn't call you a douche, he called you a thief, just your actions were douche-like Douche.

Do you know how thick? Was he trying to get some decompression with it? I've been told that when using thin copper head gaskets you don't need the o rings as long as the surfaces are fresh. Garage beers tonight if you are still on holiday Im in study study study mode at the moment, last exam tomorrow afternoon!

AFAIK copper head gaskets without o-ringing is a no-no. Daniel had one on his 280Z for a little and it didnt work. That is a turbo motor however, so higher pressures and whatnot...

I love rat projects Opel kadett turbzzzzzz bro. http://www.opel-kadett-c.co.uk/forum/vi ... f=10&t=176

Batts, genius.

Really? I thought it meant blue smoke Oh snap, genuine LOL.

Soooo long time no post on this. Uni keeps me pretty busy, but i have exams at the moment, so have been doing lots of procrastinating... As in work on the mini. Decided we needed some seats with neck support, so scored some from a late model 1st gen MX5 being wrecked locally. Nice and comfy, but still small enough to fit well without any issues. Tacked together some supports for the rear of the rails, they'll be mounted just like normal mini seats, but a little more robust, as they're a bit heavier. Wanted to use the mx5 rails as they have a nice adjusting motion. Yeap, that'll work. Started in on the front hinges, took some 3/4", 2mm wall square tube and notched out the end Then sized up a bit of 3/4" round tube to fit zipped it up Gound it down nice and pretty, wash, rinse, repeat. made some hinge brackets to weld to the central crossmember... They're probably a little chunky, but 3mm flat bar was what I had lying around, so it got taxed . Should flip forward enough to allow reasonably easy access to the rear... Definately not a well as normal mini seats do, but I'll never be in the back, so its under the 'not my problem' catagory . Should be pretty strong once its fully welded together, hopefully strong enough for mr certification man. I've adjusting the seating position a little more inboard, to get you more central to the wheel and pedals. The seats are about 5mm away from the rear bucket when back as far as they'll go, which is further back than i'll ever have em. Not to bad for a days work.

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/inde ... 01388&st=0 Hilarious starion build in the US, entertaining read. Would never get on the road over here though :/

Nothing really wrong with cutting springs, aslong as you heat and rebend the cut end so it fits the spring bucket properly, and take into allowance that it'll up the spring rate (usually desirable anyway).

How do you get around the evo 3 block being 'narrowblock', and a starion gearbox being 'wideblock'?

Does it hiss like a bitch while running? Mine started doing something similar recently. The gasket that sits below the pressure cut-off switch had let go, and was leaking. 1 hour, plus a bit of bicycle tube later, and its a good-un.

Be there in the dirty z.

Northwood be my store these days man, just on a sunday however. Used to be full time at Burnside before heading off to uni.

Keen as. Also, if you come early and need anything from Repco, I'll hook any oldschoolers up as best I can, as its my place of work.

noob...tec

Complete non-expert answers here, buuuut; Honing is to remove the hardened surface glaze from your bores, this leaves a softer surface that the rings can 'bed' into, ensuring you get a good seal. By 'bedding' in, i mean the rings and bore wearing into the vagaries of one another, hills meeting valleys, and valleys meeting hills, etc. Definately don't lube the backside of your bearings, they must be installed super clean, and dry. I would recommend a good engine assembly lube applied liberally to the side that suns on the crank however .

Ive seen significantly lower results from compression tests done with the throttle closed.. Not to the degree your getting, but enough to definately try again with WOT.

One of my old starions had the velnas system in it... Used to work most of the time, then occasionally it would just flash up stars and random characters... We refered to it as 'entering Starion time'. Sweet ride man I prefer the flat light look myself, but i think the recessed ones would look better with the chrome bumpers.... hmmmm. If you could find a euro-lip that would be mean. 5 stud starion bits and widebody starion wheels... doooo iiiiiiit.

So I gave you an itchy nutsac? Great.

I like the spaghetti.

The diff head would go in the 'big' starion housing, but the axle splines are different on l200/300 diffs, and the 'big' starion CV's don't fit .