barf

the megasquirt does ignition, fuel or any combination of. perhaps not the simplest but, it's hard to find better deflagration control systems.

try using the tooth logger in TunerStudio -- it's pretty much a poor man's scope, albeit located after the ADC/VR conditioning circuit edit; i think using the 4-pronger is going to leave something to be desired in terms of resolution in the signal, which could lead to timing errors. the 24 tooth (Ne) signal was added to the newer dizzy's which as someone pointed out, might be a good solution offering you direct ignition also.

my e30/m20b20 has a similar curve, AFAIK it's an acoustic/pneumatic type of issue with intake manifold. i thought Toyota solved this with TVIS though? seeing the torque fall with it raises an eyebrow though, i assume that would be timing - what's your spark map/advance table look like?

is it MS1(eek) MS2 or MS3? are you triggering on leading or falling edge? i doubt dwell is the issue, simple things first; how free from noise are the VR signal(s) at the megasquirt-end of the loom? for the VR signal, i'd use twisted-pair at the least or preferably a fully shielded cable. you might need a 'scope, setting my VR zero-crossing (R56) and hysteresis (R52) on my jimstim helped but on the vehicle it could be different. i made a crappy youtube video a while ago, which might help - also, be sure you understand this document http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm EDIT: could you drop your msq and a datalog here also?

cool, should be fun (and/or embarrassing) i think your E34 will have the power/weight ratio advantage! need to go back and get my WOF first, replaced a shock and bushing the other day anyone know where to get cheap tyres? (14 inch)

never tried drag racing, would you be keen to give me e30 a go at ruapuna on the 13th? (assuming it's the pbdrc event?)

hello and welcome! sorry not too familiar with your engine's ignition system but i've used Bosch BIP373 IGBTs ($8 TO-220 package) to replace BMW and Toyota ignition modules. these require a logic signal with dwell to discharge the coil and so would suit fuel injected cars that provide dwell control from ECU - many ignition modules do dwell control themselves so they're not quite a drop-in replacement unfortunately. any idea if the module connects to the computer or the dizzy?

ouch, i've seen solid prop shaft bushings for sale on a dutch website the E30/M20B20/5-speed i have got treated with a $500-max budget which yielded some modest improvements installed a megasquirt 2, wasted spark coil-pack from a V6 commodore, throttle position sensor (these M20/M30's have WOT switches) and borrowed a wideband O2 sensor to get VE tables tuned, just did the spark map on a spreadsheet and calculated values for 95 RON. i also get the impression the standard manifolds are hard to better, altho i've seen (GT-R?) slide-throttle ITB's on one M20... the two hours at the dyno shop (which included 40mins for setup and teardown) didn't actually gain me much power! (i've since improved the off-idle torque and the flat-spot at ~3700)

where do you live? i want to see this utopia one day also, another important fact:

TLDR k-trips, get a clue. i took legitimate concerns from the community to the IPCA, then select committee and objected to the new 'boy racer' laws. the cops called back and a 16 and 17 yr old both got locked up. good work NZ Police.

i have been threatened with violence by some P fiend in a road rage incident and the cops refused to fucking do anything and let the guy go. fuck you if you think sarcasm is funny. you think i joke about discrimination?

i must say, the police response was good (2 minutes), which is in stark contrast to my experiences of discrimination for driving old, well-maintained cars...

two idiots are about to be apprehended for thinking that seeing a mint TA63 and S12 was an invitation to take my stuff. they made a lame getaway in a red/maroon Diesel Nissan Terrano 1996 plate no. BEC355 6ft tall light build caucasian male wearing a light-grey beanie with stripes which had ear flaps with tails. the cop knew exactly who they were when i described them. thief fail.

from what i can gather, low-Z injectors are typically higher-performance and have higher flow rates, shorter opening times through better construction and it's the low resistance of the solenoid windings which mandates the requirement of PWM and current limiting circuitry, primarily to avoid overheating, which leads to insulation failure. you can peak and hold high-Z's but that doesn't improve their operation over simple switched open-circuit driving.

and do away with the benefits of having low-impedance injectors, such as the faster opening times. resistance and impedance are subtly different things you can exchange high-Z with high-Z injectors but putting low-Z injectors into a high-Z system is opening a can of worms. you'll need to create an 'equivalent circuit' using the low-Z's with the same electrical characteristics as the high-Z's the ECU is designed to drive. while that's not impossible, you can use a resistor pack, it's more complicated than just using the correct high impedance injectors which can safely be driven in open-circuit style. low-Z injectors need current limiting circuitry which is why a resistor pack would be needed. honda actually tried this for a while and had problems with transistor junction temperature in their ECUs causing premature failure.