Snoozin

Jeez times have changed. I got nothing but constant grief when mine was running stock ride height.

There was a T140 Corona at Zebra Manukau which may still be there?

Could you pop it in a courier bag pls.

Good plan! Wonder if health and safety concerns will dissuade guys from this.

So a while ago, myself and a bunch of OS folk hired a steam cleaner and we spent a day cleaning oily engine bays, with pretty decent results! I'm keen to do something similar again if anyone is keen - usually the cost is around $130 for a day to hire a steam cleaner, and I guess the more people on board the better! Would need an area to do it, my driveway is a bit cramped but a paddock or gravel or concreted area is fine and dandy. Register interest, and if sufficient I'll look at a mid-August date pending availability of a place to go about business.

Great job of links and other vehicles on offer AAA+++ will trade time and time and time again.

I always learn that I am mega shit at doing cars, when I try to DIY things. I also learn that when I pay people to do things, it generally works and it's a lot less taxing on my time.

Anything in South Akl should require special dispensation for NOT having altered suspension.

Ho hum, a bit jaded after the usual hectic field days workfest but I managed to whap the tank in. Was supposed to go for fuel hard lines but Brendan's been crook and it's pushed his workload back a bit... hopefully the weekend coming I'll have this sorted. Project_KP61_4AGE (217) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Tank now features matte black! Project_KP61_4AGE (218) by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is the non-leaky surge pot for the in tank pump. Project_KP61_4AGE (219) by Richard Opie, on Flickr And this, well this is the slightly rusty flange that supports the cradle for the fuel pump, and also has the feed a return -6AN fittings on it. Yeah I'll be plating it. Project_KP61_4AGE (220) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then I put it in the car, it will need to come out again for those final bits and pieces but for now it's great to get it in so the hardlines and everything can be sorted out. Thanks for looking. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/18803-snoozins-1981-kpiz-starlet/ <---- Discuss.

About 4:45 through to about 5:30 I guess. Just a real quick point and snap nothing real serious.

Unsure if you're familiar with the song 'Little Blu House,' by Unknown Mortal Orchestra but it could well have been written about this. Refers to, well, a little blue house which is 'sitting high on the mountainside.' It then recites the line 'maybe all the wolves could lose my scent, and I could stay here for a while.' Anyway everytime that song comes on shuffle, I think about this thread. #coolstorybro (PS paint it blue)

Lumpy cam and a worked 4k.

I'm glad they didn't wreck the images, very glad about that. Good stuff!

Nope, a guy on one of the Porsche pages I frequent just reserved a normal one, and he just has to wait for it to be produced... it cost like $25. If you want a 3 letter, 3 number plate now now now then it costs less than a normal p/plate but still lots.

So much truth

Weather permitting sure why not eh

This afternoon, after ferrying the sheepers down to Hamilton I set about modifying the dash cluster to accomodate my new instruments - yes that's right, I did a thing on this myself. IMG_4941 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Starting point was this factory flat front KP61 tacho dash cluster - I wanted to cut up one of these rare, hard to find examples because it meant I could install the tacho I wanted and still retain the OEM fuel gauge and temp (temp not so much of an issue but anyway) which you'll note are included in a combination gauge on the non-tacho cluster that my car came with. IMG_4961 by Richard Opie, on Flickr On the speed side, I wanted to install this Stack ST3801 speedo - it reads an optimistic 260km/h so I'm sure further developments will be needed to ensure I can take this car off the clock. IMG_4963 by Richard Opie, on Flickr For keeping an eye on revs, I have always wanted to pop a Stack tacho into a car - these remind me of watching the start-up montages of Bathurst years past, you know the one... the grand marshal instructs 'drivers start your engines,' then you get a montage of Larry, Brocky, Tricky Dicky et al. pressing the go buttons and more than one Stack tacho leaping into life as the engine fired. Anyway, I wanted that. You'll note the instruments don't match. Weird yes, I dunno. But I have a stack (lol) of other auxiliary gauges I am using which match the speedo in terms of bezel design, but the tach is the odd one out in the Stack range. Anyway I digress.... IMG_4988 by Richard Opie, on Flickr When you try to fit the gauges into the cluster, this happens. The speedo is slightly too large in both bezel and body diameter, and both of them foul on mouldings behind them. IMG_4959 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is why. There's all sorts of annoying bits of plastic and shit going on behind the instruments. Suffice to say, it needed to GTFO so I went and invested in a variable speed Dremel and some tool bits for it. IMG_4997 by Richard Opie, on Flickr And then I started mangling. IMG_5006 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Until eventually, I had carefully hacked the back of each side out and they were roughly (literally!) ready to accept their new instrument overlords. IMG_5026 by Richard Opie, on Flickr The tacho fit into the fascia perfectly as it was - you'll note in this shot, there is a flat on the bottom of the aperture for the speedo. That needed to be ground out circular to accept the main body of the gauge, but the bezel itself was still too large to fit in the supplied space. IMG_5055 by Richard Opie, on Flickr So I did what any sane person would do, and employed my newly acquired Dremel skills of precision destruction to chop the bottom off the speedo. Which ended up being more than just the bezel. But it worked a treat - this is just after the initial cut, and some sanding with a fine sanding drum at a low speed finished it off nicely, but I think it might be prudent to fill it with urethane or something similar just to stop any dust getting in. IMG_5050 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Went over the edges of the gaping chasms I'd created with a burr to tidy them all up, radius the corners and remove any sharp edges. IMG_5066 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then secured each of the instruments into it's new home! I won't be able to reinstate the clear plastic cover over over these two - they sit proud of the mating surface for that cover, but also the fact the instruments have lenses of their own means it results in some weird/annoying reflections. I only need to cover the temp and fuel gauges, so will sort out some kind of clear plastic to glue over the top of them and it should nestle nicely in the factory location. Thanks for looking! Discussion in signature if you want to yarn about it.

THE SECRET FUEL THAT BIG OIL AND THE US GOVERNMENT DOESN'T WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT

Christ you talk some horseshit at times Muncie but that takes the cake. A Triumph 2000 or 2500 of any variety getting 4.1 litres per 100km is simply pipe dreams, pure and simple.

I got 14.7l/100km out of the 230 when I bought it off you - after I'd fucked with the carb and sorted the timing I managed low 12's with the auto, then dipped into the 10's with the manual on that massive roadtrip we did in it. So my tip for economy in old cars - do a manual swap. Neal I'm looking at you.

Nah you can keep your Dutch card, because on average the fuel consumption by your 7 vehicles is SFA....

Witor mounts seem to get a solid tick for durability.

You'll do better to get the Koni inserts from Stocks I think, rather than importing from the US.

Also keen to head back out to that golf joint at Muriwai for beers and wedges. That was a good day of yarns!

Those appear to be Toyota part numbers on that site too.