moparmuppet

So far away from committing. In Perth, Singapore Thursday. Will bring Caddy or whatever if something has a wof. Hope to have some idea of time on and off by the end of next month. Will be there if I am home.

I'd go if I was home at the time but gotta grab work as it comes now that I am working on casual contracts with a crewing agency. Might need to be the ln106 too which is cheating for the lake run

+ 1 on good looking cars. +1 on vapour blaster build. Stick it here if you like. Thanks

I think most of them ran the 403 Olds motor and auto. Only Manual was the ponty 400ci. Both labeled 6.6 on scoop only Ponty power were T/A?

Is cold rolled steel easy to get hold of? I have only ever used zintec but it hasn't been a hassle and the offcuts aren't rusty years later.

can you tell us where you ordered the cyclone funnel from please if you have a link. Cheers

@sr2 might be a guy to talk to. Simon was trainer for PBR etc if I recall correctly. Worth a crack Nige.

Sweet job Clint. I couldn't keep my big block cool in summer, had electric fans, then OG 4 blade that was better. The fix in the end was a FlowKooler waterpump from Summit and a FlowKooler Robertshaw thermostat. Milodon do a cheaper copy of the heavy duty type thermostat ( like a sleeve valve, not poppet) but it lasted 2 drives before jamming shut. The FlowKooler stuff is legit and far cheaper than reworking radiators etc if the airflow side is OK. Good luck.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/exterior/listing/3696519298

Gidday. Is there a solvent or something I should soak them in. Do I strip them down (remove nozzles) All new to me. Its easy to get at them now so makes sense if I should be looking at them to do it now. Chur.

A cup of very hot water with a tablespoon of baking soda and your old toothbrush will clean it up. There are a couple of products to stop it coming back. Korode Kure (Repco?) or CRC Battery terminal protector. Don't know what does it. I suspect material of terminal (non lead) with a dusting of battery acid from fuming causing electrolysis across dissimilar metals. I haven't seen it happen on lead clamps. Supercheap do a wire brush terminal and post cleaner cheap. Worth cleaning terminals properly so the alt doesn't overcharge/ boil the battery trying to sense across high ohms connections.

Neetsfoot oil is the jizz for leather. Just burn your rags when finished. Its worse than linseed for spontaneous combustion.

Minis were always bad at earth wires not earthing. They would cook the throttle cable and choke cable using them as earth returns. I know you said you had cleaned them but there will be probably 2 of them and the one from the engine subframe to the bellhousing gets forgotten. A good check is to use your jumper lead from the body of the starter motor to the battery earth or a known good subframe earth. High resistance will cause lower cranking speed, voltage drop and heat. I assume Moke battery is under rear seat?

Disembarking the SS Stalag on Saturday night. I will see how I go with finding something oldschool enough to drive if I am feeling alive enough. Would be nice to meet that @avengertiger weirdo since he is almost a neighbor. Time to put a name to a face of some of the other reprobates as well. I need to stop being such a hermit.

Dunno about jet boat hulls but a normal hull has a cruising speed. you can tip double the juice down its gob and get 1/2 knot more speed. also, the pleasure boat motor will probably have different cams, fuel pumps, injectors etc. as well as turbo. I have seen same series of motor in pleasure boat and Genset application. 60l sump and 50 hr oil changes, double the horsepower, 40% duty, vs 150L sump and 750 hr oil changes making 1/2 the power at 100% duty cycle. Apples aint apples. Just filled the day tank now, 9500L for 24 hrs on the 2 stroke diesel V8. What do you think about that greta