Goat Posted June 12, 2023 Author Share Posted June 12, 2023 Still plodding away with this. Waiting for parts to arrive from overseas. Have been preparing everything for sending off to get plated. Hours on the wire wheel. Turning shit like this: Into shit like this: Should yield the best results when i get them back from the plater. Got frame completely stripped down ready to drop to sandblasting and powdercoating. Drifted out swingarm bushes, will be replacing those Turns out pistons are toast too. One of the ring lands is pinched, and i cant get the ring spring out. Shouldn't be like that, so will get a new set of pistons. Barrels have some vertical scoring, but it had really good compression beforehand, so will just give them a light hone, and put some new STD size pistons and rings in it. I'm not going to be doing mega miles, so marzel keep it standard size. Here is a pile of junk. Oh yeah, so my new cases didnt have the cylinder studs in them. So i had to pull them out of mine, What misery. They had a bit of a hard time with the vicegrips, and you can see there one of them broke off. Fortunately only one, but yay, more $$ and delay to get a replacement one. I do enjoy the misery though. And i'm genuinely excited to get this back together and running. One of my dream bikes. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 One of the best things I inherited from the old man was a proper stud removal tool. Saved my bacon many times. Well worth having. Currently struggling to remove a sleeve nut from a AJS/Villiers barrel stud. 40 years in a West Coast shed, unplated steel on unplated steel makes for a pretty good bond. 3 of 4 came off but the last bugger is being stubborn. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted June 12, 2023 Author Share Posted June 12, 2023 Most of them removed with the twin nut trick and a bit of heat. The others needed some vicegrip help. This last one, jesus was it tight. Probably spent about 2 hours on it trying not to break anything. Got it out half way then it just broke off. Half tempted to get some stainless rod and make my own stainless studs. Probably cheaper than getting a single one from the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 I love it. had no idea there were so many of these around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 29 minutes ago, Goat said: Most of them removed with the twin nut trick and a bit of heat. The others needed some vicegrip help. This last one, jesus was it tight. Probably spent about 2 hours on it trying not to break anything. Got it out half way then it just broke off. Half tempted to get some stainless rod and make my own stainless studs. Probably cheaper than getting a single one from the states. Die-cut threads will be weaker than rolled threads (which a proper stud would have I expect). It depends on how much stress/tension is on a stud. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 45 minutes ago, Goat said: Most of them removed with the twin nut trick and a bit of heat. The others needed some vicegrip help. This last one, jesus was it tight. Probably spent about 2 hours on it trying not to break anything. Got it out half way then it just broke off. Half tempted to get some stainless rod and make my own stainless studs. Probably cheaper than getting a single one from the states. Don't do it. HT steel waisted as per OE will give correct expansion rate. Bob Densem made a rookie mistake years back on the speedway singles he made. Used non waisted large OD studs and had continual head gasket probs. Studs weren't expanding at barrel rate so barrel finished up squashed shorter. Next time it ran, the gasket went. Rolled vs cut threads not really relevant - from memory they're only about 20 ft/lb torque. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holdenman Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 Nice going, we have something in common, 2strokes rule! If you ever come south with your 2smoke look me up for a ride together. That Blue 71 was identical colour to the one I rode back when I was 16, what a rush it was stepping off an A50 onto it and so much fun even though I was never really in full control of it in the lower gears, they had detuned them after that model. I while back I wanted to buy an early Mach3 but ended up settling on a GT750 instead. Good luck on the build 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 Right, have been waiting for everything to turn up before ripping into the crank. So it doesnt come apart and stay apart forever.... Got the bits and pieces i needed for my press, got the bearings and seals for the crank, and got the pullers i needed. First step, remove oil pump drive gear, primary drive gear, ignition pickups and the stator. Jesus the stator was on there. Had rusted onto the taper. Managed to get it free without breaking anything. Tried all sorts to get it off. But patience prevailed in the end! Next step was to score and mark the webs so i get it close when pressing it back together, and put the webs in the right order! Press it all apart! Pull inner bearings off: All stripped: I've got the webs soaking in evaporust to get rid of the surface rust: So, looks like i need a crank pin, and one of the center pins is a bit worn, looks like a bearing has been spinning. Its part of the web, so may need a new (second hand) one of those too. Will have a think. Not too bad to press apart, though i suspect that is the easy bit. I've got all my plated nuts, bolts and brackets back, they look the biz, will throw up some pictures soon. I've also blasted my replacement cases, these have alot of heavy corrosion unfortunately, so aren't gonna be aesthetically mint. This is a 50 year old bike though, so i probably shouldn't worry about minor stuff like that. Will get some pics of these up in the next update. On the hunt for crank pin(s) now. The places that sell them seem to all be out of stock. hmmm. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted July 22, 2023 Share Posted July 22, 2023 Did you source any rod kits ? For pins, once you have the dimensions looik through the MX parts sites. ProX is good, you may find correct pins there - or ones you can shorten. I see you appear to have got the oil slingers off. How much crap was in there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 The pins have a larger journal, so not just a straight bar. Could get some machined, but again, i have zero faith in any local engineering companies. I could probably buy a brand new complete H1 for the price they'd charge for one crank pin. Ive got new bottom and top end bearings, but from what i can tell, the factory rods are really good so I should re-use those I you can. Can get kits with rods, bearings, and new pins, but they're like 300usd. ouch. And i'll only be using the pins! Took off all the oil slingers, only managed to destroy two screws. They were full of aluminium paste, bits of bearing cage, and just general goop. Super yuck. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Once again you're in the wrong part of NZ. I've made pins - stepped and plain - myself in the past. EN36 or similar. Machine leaving about .015in grinding allowance. Send away for hardening (used to be good when Farrars were going here. They'd do hardening and finish grind) Hand to a good grinder for finishing - with finished OD's and tolerances. Hardest part was getting a good finish on the bore to avoid stress raisers. It's not difficult. Anton on here - cheap machining in ChCh - could do it. Hardening in Auckland and I'd point him at a guy locally to finish grind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Think i'm gonna bite the bullet and get some new pins, rods and thrust washer things. Will assess if i'll use the rods or keep the originals when i see them. Found a set for 350nzd. I also need to order pistons and rings from the same place. So marzel get both. Im in two minds about the slightly worn crank web. It was pretty easy to slide the bearing off, and can see and feel a slight groove where the bearing was spinning. The 2nd bearing was tough to pull off over it though, so it not like its super loose. Wondering whether to press the new bearing on with some bearing locker and send it. Or track down another crank web. (Which i cant seem to find one by itself, and sending a whole crank shaft is $$$, and it could also be fucked. Nothing i touch is ever straight forward like ol Alan Millyard. Everything comes out "just perfect" for him. hah. Anything i touch come out "propper fucked" 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Measuring is really your only criteria with the rods. Still round and within factory specs. I'm assuming it's a mainshaft integral with the web you're thinking is undersize ? Again measuring will tell you how bad it is. Possibly a combination of measuring the new mains and picking the smallest ID bearing and using bearing mount would solve it. There's sometimes a surprising amount of difference between "identical" bearings. Millyard I suspect is like me and a couple others I know. We have a pretty good idea of how bad things can be and still function acceptably. Doing it for 50+ years helps. How long do you want it to last - and how much mileage will it do ? Mine got raced and used as a daily but it gave 8mpg on the road - and 12mpg when raced lol. Not a cheap thing to use these days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Yeah, the mainshaft is part of the crank web unfortunately. It would probably be ok, as i still had to use a puller to get the bearing off, so its not a cock in a sock, its way tighter than say the gearbox shaft bearings, which can be removed by hand. But you can definitely see a depression by eye, and can feel it with your fingers. Will chuck up a pic of it tonight. I'll be doing bugger all miles, and not racing it, but would like to do the odd overnight trip. So don't want it to be a grenade. hah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted August 20, 2023 Author Share Posted August 20, 2023 Finally the stars aligned and i have all the bits to assemble this crank! So I got stuck in on saturday. The 2nd hand crank i got turned up. So pressed that apart and soaked it in evaporust: The sections i needed for my original crank were in good condition! Excellent. I then prepared a clean starting point: And started pressing together Checking clearances (spot on): ] Then using my 3d truing stand (pic sans bearings): I trued up to 0.02mm. Its all going well! All was going good. Then drama hit. I was fitting the replacement web, and i couldnt get it to true. It was too close at the opposite side to the crank pin, you rectify this by driving a aluminium wedge in between. So no dramas there. But somehow, between the wedge driving and the truing blows, both of the poured in counterweights came loose. No biggie, i'll use the other replacement crank web. Shortly after, the same happened with this one. So now i'm not sure what to do, can i juat locktite them in? Do they need to be melted out and repoured? I don't think its just lead, its some special alloy that is super heavy. Dumb! Nothing ever turns out like Alan Millyard. Not sure where to go now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 Malory metal /tungsten alloy. Loctite and then stake the edges in 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 It can also be tig'd in. Spot welds around the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 18 minutes ago, GregT said: It can also be tig'd in. Spot welds around the edges. Ever had the welds crack, maybe due to different expansion rates? Maybe not a problem when the weights go in from the side, some v8ss throw them out and is suggested to weld a bit of steel over the top jnstead, but I think this is when they put them in the circumference of the Web rather than the side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 Yeah, these go in from the side. So just need to stop left and right movement. I'll press the web off tonight and have a looksie. What flavor loctite should I use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 I was told red/the permanent one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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