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1967 Morris FG Cabover


HumberSS

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44 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

OK, broken housing ideas time.

My vote is as follows.

  • bolt housing into place with single remaining fastener.
  • Take a pair of good vicegrips, use these over the housing flange and that tab of unbroken steel to clamp things together.
  • Weld up the jaws of the vicegrips so that they cannot come lose.
  • optional: if you'd like the repair to be more professional, once the jaws are welded solid you may use an angle grinder or gas axe to cut the rest of the vicegrips away so that only the clamped and welded jaws remain.

 

Or, yeah i guess if you couldn't be bothered brazing up the thread and you don't have a welder then you could drill right down through a bit larger and use a longer bolt with a nut?

 

 

Im sure with enough glue and brazing rods I could make anything happen.

But I'm quite superstitious with my car projects and took this as a sign. 

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8 hours ago, dmulally said:

Technically too wide but there is a really nice space between cross members behind the cab it would be perfect for. 

Which leads me to the next question...who signs off truck mod certs? 

FG8.jpg

Jamieson motors in Taranaki do both car and truck cert it would seem, as they are certing a friend's belts on a camper which is on cof. 

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If you are dead set on deisel engine probably a straight 6 would be best. Land rover TDI is underpowered even in a disco, td42 would be good. My old work had a 1992 Isuzu forward, it was na but plenty powerful and super reliable, it's still in use. Not sure on engine model but would recommend.

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13 hours ago, HumberSS said:

What about that TS3 Commer knocker. That thing needs a home. If your dead set on the diesel going into the c20 then perhaps the SB chev ends up in the Morris!

The TS3 is waaaay too wide. As is the daimler V8. 

What will fit so far that I have in stock:

Isuzu 4b diesel (with some mods)

Holden 202

Essex V6

Slight issue is that the truck cert guy wants to know the GVM as he thinks it is for a car cert person. I sent him the sales brochures I had and a guess. See what he says I guess. 

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37 minutes ago, dmulally said:

How hard is the wiring on a TD42? I know the isuzu is one wire for the fuel pump and starter each. Simple. 

 

 

 

Same same, starter wiring, single wire to the fuel cut off.

Plus peripheral stuff like glow plugs and associated relays.

Also I have a good short block here if you can find a head and ancilliaries, but I guess a complete engine would be better.

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7 minutes ago, ThePog said:

 

Same same, starter wiring, single wire to the fuel cut off.

Plus peripheral stuff like glow plugs and associated relays.

Also I have a good short block here if you can find a head and ancilliaries, but I guess a complete engine would be better.

Are you please able to chuck a tape measure over one by any chance? I can take some pics/measurements of the engine bay first if you like. 

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12 minutes ago, dmulally said:

Are you please able to chuck a tape measure over one by any chance? I can take some pics/measurements of the engine bay first if you like. 

No problem. They are a big unit.

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Ok slight change of plans. The truck cert guy said I should really really not bother with an engine repower without getting it registered first. I've spent the last day or so researching the TD42 and can only dream. 

So quick question: What is the neck called that the thermostat housing bolts to? I'll need to find a new one but don't know the name. I'll likely have to shop in England so have to find one. I could always fabricate one but would rather not. The other thing I could do is get a generic pommy 6 cylinder and just hope the VTNZ dude is under the age of 50 when first registering it. 

To try and scrape through in the meantime I have retapped the bolt holes with a more course thread and jammed some bolts on and glued the t-housing on with right stuff which I have had good luck with in the past. I didn't have the right length bolts so improvised. m presently having it sit cold full of water and I'll check throughout the day to see if it weeps. There is a chunk of cast iron in the water pump so if it stays water tight I'll pull it off and go fishing for it somehow. 

 

FG13.jpg

FG12.jpg

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Since Austin based the engine on the Chevy Stovebolt 6, as did Bedford, either of those may prove to be donors?

 

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Stovebolt_engine :-

This engine was also used in GM's British Bedford truck. In the late 1930s rival Austin decided to get into the 2-3 ton truck ("lorry") market and in a crash program based the design on the basic architecture of this "Stove Bolt" engine, except that they added detachable shell main and con-rod bearings and pressurized lubrication.

Hot rod Stovebolts and other Chevrolet six-cylinder memories | Hemmings

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1 hour ago, locost_bryan said:

Since Austin based the engine on the Chevy Stovebolt 6, as did Bedford, either of those may prove to be donors?

 

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Stovebolt_engine :-

This engine was also used in GM's British Bedford truck. In the late 1930s rival Austin decided to get into the 2-3 ton truck ("lorry") market and in a crash program based the design on the basic architecture of this "Stove Bolt" engine, except that they added detachable shell main and con-rod bearings and pressurized lubrication.

 

Good shout. The bedford 6's especially are everywhere. I did have a Chev 250 full oil pressure one that I scrapped a year or two back. Bugger. 

A couple of hours in and the housing hasnt started leaking yet. 

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13 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Might be worth a call / visit to Horopito Motors?

What's the best way to deal with them? Email, call, visit? 

It's about 4 hours away from me so I can't exactly pop in easily sadly. 

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