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Adoom's 1981 Mini 1000. Discussion


Adoom
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  • 3 weeks later...

Cg13 swaps :-)

Yeah the cg10 box also has closer ratios which most k11 folk who race/fancy being race car drivers will often op for. Go for a later facelift cg10 box because it has the larger cg13 shafts.

I'd personally not bother swapping out the whole loom into a mini.  even though compared to latest cars its pretty simple its still way more complex than a mini item. The  k11 switchs/stalks etc would look pretty ugly/big in a mini.

All you really need the mini item to do is control some lights/horn etc. I'd keep a simplified engine loom for the donk separate and then make up a cleaner body loom for mini but add relays for the lights etc.

The stock cg13 flywheel is pretty hefty so you'll be able to knock heaps off it. Cg13 has a slightly larger clutch. But maybe a cg10 flywheel/clutch is all you need to shift a mini about?

I'm excited about seeing this happen. I've a friend in Oz who's fitted a cg13 into his mini- I think with a Turbo I'll check. He then bought a Nistune board for the stock ecu and has tuned it with that. A cheap effective way to do it.

 

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Agreed, when I was researching this years ago the CG10/CG13 was head and shoulders above any other recommendation.  I never liked the VTec jobs, you ended up with a mini where the front track was so much wider than the back plus a mate tried one in Upper Hutt and said with the insane torque steer it was downright dangerous.

Another plus is that the Nissan job requires no changes in the engine bay as far as the side wings are concerned, everything else needs a decent level of hackery.

Who knows, I might go back to a mini project once I get Sierra wagons out of my system.  I collected a bunch of photos from the webs of the swap which I've still got somewhere if that would help.

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2 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Cg13 swaps :-)

Yeah the cg10 box also has closer ratios which most k11 folk who race/fancy being race car drivers will often op for. Go for a later facelift cg10 box because it has the larger cg13 shafts.

I'd personally not bother swapping out the whole loom into a mini.  even though compared to latest cars its pretty simple its still way more complex than a mini item. The  k11 switchs/stalks etc would look pretty ugly/big in a mini.

All you really need the mini item to do is control some lights/horn etc. I'd keep a simplified engine loom for the donk separate and then make up a cleaner body loom for mini but add relays for the lights etc.

The stock cg13 flywheel is pretty hefty so you'll be able to knock heaps off it. Cg13 has a slightly larger clutch. But maybe a cg10 flywheel/clutch is all you need to shift a mini about?

I'm excited about seeing this happen. I've a friend in Oz who's fitted a cg13 into his mini- I think with a Turbo I'll check. He then bought a Nistune board for the stock ecu and has tuned it with that. A cheap effective way to do it.

 

When you say "facelift", what year is that? I don't think you mean the >2002 models, they have a different engine, right?

I was planning on using only the wiring(thinner for same current) and some connectors(not shit lucas) to build a new loom, but still use the mini lights, switches.

The smaller flywheel is probably fine. The mini is ~200kg lighter than a K11 and the CG alloy engine/gearbox is ~40kg lighter than the iron mini engine.

Tell me more about this Nistune board. Can it cope with forced induction?

30 minutes ago, EpochNZ said:

Agreed, when I was researching this years ago the CG10/CG13 was head and shoulders above any other recommendation.  I never liked the VTec jobs, you ended up with a mini where the front track was so much wider than the back plus a mate tried one in Upper Hutt and said with the insane torque steer it was downright dangerous.

Another plus is that the Nissan job requires no changes in the engine bay as far as the side wings are concerned, everything else needs a decent level of hackery.

Who knows, I might go back to a mini project once I get Sierra wagons out of my system.  I collected a bunch of photos from the webs of the swap which I've still got somewhere if that would help.

The guy I met in trentham, Matt, said I was welcome to come round and take photos and measurements of his. It's really well done, he seems to have a high standard of work.

He also has a race mini with a Swift GTI engine in it. He said it was a bit more complicated to do and the CG swap is much easier.

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Face-lift is after 97/98 thereabouts. Bigger headlights and a one piece bonnet/grill part is the easiest way to spot them. Most k11s seem to be facelifts in nz

As for price.. Get the right car and it could be beer money. If you can find something with rust issues being the reason it's off the road you'll pay bugger all. Auto ecus will work fine on a manual car so find a 1300 auto and source a 1.0 box from elsewhere. It really does seem to be the case that when it rains it pours. You'll be looking for a while and then suddenly youll have 4...

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5 minutes ago, shrike said:

Pickapart run for both motor 1.3/loom/ecu and the manual box out of the 1.0 one

It's an option, but I think I may end up spending quite a bit on the extra bits and pieces that aren't covered by "complete engine and manual box". 
I'm in no rush, it's just the initial excitement, I can wait for "the right car".

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Right thread

Sounds like a good mission, going to do another trip for a gearbox and axles etc? $250 is a good price, I probably would have just done basic maintance (waterpump etc) for peice of mind and sent it. (Dealt with a headgasket if it happened) but at least you'll know the condition and hopefully won't need to do much to it.

Surprised pick apart only has one lift, all the ones here have multiple. 

I've been running Diesal oil in my fake evo 4G63T and it's slowly cleaning out all the varnish/oil sludge crap etc not that I've run it much mind. Assuming your not going to strip/clean/hot tank everything 

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2 minutes ago, shrike said:

Right thread

Sounds like a good mission, going to do another trip for a gearbox and axles etc? $250 is a good price, I probably would have just done basic maintance (waterpump etc) for peice of mind and sent it. (Dealt with a headgasket if it happened) but at least you'll know the condition and hopefully won't need to do much to it.

Surprised pick apart only has one lift, all the ones here have multiple. 

I've been running Diesal oil in my fake evo 4G63T and it's slowly cleaning out all the varnish/oil sludge crap etc not that I've run it much mind. Assuming your not going to strip/clean/hot tank everything 

I got a gearbox and all the manual bits a week or two earlier. Was quite a bit, ~$400! Box was $130, but axles, gear linkage, gear lever, flywheel, starter, clutch plate, clutch pressure plate were all extra.

They have another bigger crane, looked like it had flat tires. But they rejiggered the aisles to fit more cars in some time ago now only their narrow crane fits.

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28 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

So has the engine you've picked up come with cop ignition? 

Unfortunately not. Still got a distributor. I did discover that the coil lives inside the distributor, which I've not seen before, but I assume they all do?

 

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Yeah they all do. The earlier dizzys can have issues with the coil breaking down or something but yours will have the later improved version then. 

I wonder if it's only the later European k11s that got cop ignition? 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Just now, igor said:

I'm sure you've discovered the actual jacking points half way along the sills. Bit of a weird arse arrangement but it works.

Affirmative. Requires special jack with the sticky uppy bit to engage with the orifice.

I'll be doing some exploratory surgery around one of them on mine. It has a rough looking repair around it that was covered with filler. I suspect it predates the much neater repairs that were done by the previous owner. It's either been done using MUCH thicker steel, or there is some double plating going on. 

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I found the factory jack with the sticky uppy bit that fitted the orifice to be a fool of a thing. Never felt entirely safe using it. A trolley jack under the subframe is far superior.

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