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Adoom's 1981 Mini 1000. Discussion


Adoom

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14 minutes ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

I was just looking at your thread and I've been working on the same solution to making the clutch hydraulic, I took the whole pivot there's two roll pins that allow the clutch release fork to come off. Mine is a new one as I wasn't going to split the box from the engine at the wreckers.

I think I'll try to mount the clutch master but I think it'll need spacing up or the rod shortened.

gotta love Nissan's parts interchangeability. 

 

Yeh, it's so handy that the parts just fit!

I hadn't seen anyone else using this solution on the UK micra mini forums. I think I saw one person with a dirty great bracket to use a slave cylinder to push the cable clutch arm. Another with some aftermarket 'pull' slave cylinder that was apparently not so reliable. And on the nissan engined mini FB page, some guy was saying to just convert the mini to cable clutch cause it's "simpler".

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8 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Yeh, it's so handy that the parts just fit!

I hadn't seen anyone else using this solution on the UK micra mini forums. I think I saw one person with a dirty great bracket to use a slave cylinder to push the cable clutch arm. Another with some aftermarket 'pull' slave cylinder that was apparently not so reliable. And on the nissan engined mini FB page, some guy was saying to just convert the mini to cable clutch cause it's "simpler".

Yeah no one else knows I think, I put mine together yesterday before it goes into the car next week hopefully. I got the idea from Gizfab YouTube as he put the micra cable setup into the qg18de gearbox, so I figured the reverse should be possible. I've got a heavier clutch going in so hydraulic should help, if a clutch cable snaps it often loses the fork off the release bearing meaning you may have to split the box to get it back on, hopefully the hydraulic is more reliable and fails in a nicer fashion. 

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I just had a look on my installed engine and the coolant pipe from the waterpump uses the same piece of real estate as the top of this lever, OK if you plan to modify this water pipe (as many do so they can fit an unmodified mini radiator) but as my radiator is already modified and I'm already setup with the cable clutch I think it means I'm staying cable... unless I get further problems :?

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Ah, yes, I see what you mean. It's not really an issue for me since I'm really early in the build and I don't yet have a radiator or even started modifying the subframe.

IMG_0168.thumb.JPG.5b66a68a9b50726bb551b3af4b0fb46f.JPGIMG_0169.thumb.JPG.af78af39fff02cfb10f27fed2db4990f.JPG

Plenty of space to reroute that pipe, either just under the distributor, or go under the slave cylinder.

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2 hours ago, Adoom said:

Plenty of space to reroute that pipe, either just under the distributor, or go under the slave cylinder.

I'm thinking I might be able to bend the pipe further underneath the thermostat and leave all my plumbing unchanged. I'd have to cut off the mount near the thermostat but can replace it on the other side of the pipe. 

There's a starter to get around at the back, there's the option of going behind the starter which would mean no need to modify the mini radiator. 

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I ended up bending the water pipe in, turned out kinda neat, but does make it a bit harder to get the gearbox on I think, one of the transmission bolts is a bit of a PITA now too.

I mounted the master by building a spacer to move it up probably about 40mm and shortened and redrilled where the clevis pin goes through, the pushrod is adjustable so that helps to fine tune the length.

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8 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

I'm not sure but I think I might have been better off using the mini clutch master cylinder, as I'm not getting enough movement at the slave, the Pulsar master is 5/8" and a mini clutch master is 0.7" I'll give it a go and let you know...

I was planning on using a mini master, seemed simpler since it's made to go there. I was crossing my fingers that the bore ratio would work out. I'll be interested to see how it goes for you. 

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14 hours ago, Adoom said:

I was planning on using a mini master, seemed simpler since it's made to go there. I was crossing my fingers that the bore ratio would work out. I'll be interested to see how it goes for you. 

It's probably better to have more movement rather than too little, there's a return spring around the shaft in the micra box that isn't in the Pulsar box which causes the clutch to retract further than it otherwise would, I've made bracket with an adjustment bolt to stop it retracting too far so I can use that to manage if I get too much travel but I doubt that'll be a problem...

I think it's probably best the spring isn't in there but I wasn't going to pull the subframe, engine and box out again to take it out after I realised... it might actually help anyway...

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1 minute ago, igor said:

Apart from the taillights what are the differences between Mk3 and Mk4? 

MK3 has solid mounted front subframe using 4 small bolts in the towers. MK4 is rubber mounted with 2 giant bolts in the top of the tower. They are not interchangeable. Not sure about the rear subframe. I do already have MK4 subframes.

MK3 has a single control stalk for indicators/wipers/lights/etc... MK4 has two stalks and larger longer shroud on the column.

MK3 has no reverse lights. AFAIK the the MK4/MK3 lights both bolt in the same hole, you just need to sort the wiring. It's the MK1 that has the tiny rear lights.

I think the brake pedal has a different pivot ratio.

I think those are the major differences.

Stuff I need from it is the loom, steering column, wiper assembly, clutch master(unless it's fucked) and all the bits to mount it. Assorted fasteners. Dashboard pads, bonnet hinges. headlights.... I need to cut out the rear seat storage pockets and the front lip of the back seat and weld them into mine because a previous owner removed them to do racecar.... and the interior handles and levers and stuff for the doors....uuuh probably some other stuff.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 07/10/2022 at 06:21, Adoom said:

I was planning on using a mini master, seemed simpler since it's made to go there. I was crossing my fingers that the bore ratio would work out. I'll be interested to see how it goes for you. 

I've fitted a 0.75" heavy duty mini clutch master cylinder, seems better and an easier, neater fit, I'll let you know as the clutch beds in. 

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3 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

I've fitted a 0.75" heavy duty mini clutch master cylinder, seems better and an easier, neater fit, I'll let you know as the clutch beds in. 

Do you recall if the roll pin holes in the shaft for the top lever and the lower fork line up, or are they at a different angle?

I haven't had a go at figuring it out yet.... I've just been stripping the parts car so I can get rid of the rusty shell and get some floor space back.

Did manage to get the 850 running, it didn't seem to smoke at all! Dad reckons someone has swapped a 1.5" SU from a 1275 onto it, so it'll have even less power than normal. I assume no one is going to want a rusty, oily 850. 

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2 hours ago, Adoom said:

Do you recall if the roll pin holes in the shaft for the top lever and the lower fork line up, or are they at a different angle?

I grabbed the pivot and lever together, the roll pin holes for the clutch bearing fork lined up fine though, so I think that means copy the alignment of the micra one...?

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11 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

I grabbed the pivot and lever together, the roll pin holes for the clutch bearing fork lined up fine though, so I think that means copy the alignment of the micra one...?

nah. I mean like this. Looking along the shaft, do the top two holes line up with the bottom two holes(all red), or are they different(red+blue)? I need to drill holes for the arm on mine and I don't know what angle it should be compared to the fork at the bottom. My plan was to do a best guess, I suspect they will be pretty close to all being in the same line. But since you have the pivot shaft with both sets of holes in it already..... maybe you remember....
image.png.1085503440740dfdfcb0a3dbd198de81.png

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1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

I'm now watching this thread with even more interest because I've been offered a cheap complete mk1 mini which I might take up in the future when the Imp is finished *

 

 

 

 

 

*the imp is always gonna be an ongoing project..

Does that mean I'm not allowed to take a thousand years to finish?

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11 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

I don't remember, sorry, I have another one I grabbed out of a wreckers but it's not with me, I didn't look much at the top pins.

The pins inside the gearbox are set so you can drive them out with a pin punch into a space behind, looking at the photo I posted above I'd say the two sets of pins are close to lining up. 

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