fuzzy-hair-man

I was looking at your subframe work, I reckon it'd be a close thing but you might get the frame in. When I did mine the rail on the sump end goes in between the sump and the gearbox and shares space with the exhaust, means that its not much lower than standard. Trouble is the rail uses the space where standard micra extractors go so the exhaust needs to be custom.

The blue wires are normally closed, (on when the switch is off, off when the switch is on) you could use them for fail safe things like if the sensor or switch for a temp sensor were to fail the pump or fan comes on as default, although most sensors would be normally open, so you'd need to be specific about using the blue. Googling the relay number it says its a accessories relay.. but only giving 5A to accessories seems problematic.. I know you could change it. Maybe one of the red positives is switched and the other is permanently live?

I don't know if I've mentioned it on here but my mini's driveshafts were made by taking the larger diameter and longer of the 2 driveshaft options (probably VW and subie in these cases) cutting them down in length and turning them down in diameter and then cutting the appropriate splines on the end for the outer CVs, mini in my case. So solid, one piece shafts, no welding and no chance of warping or weakness and relatively cheap as most of the works already done. There's a possible issue as the splines may have been hardend and won't be any longer but mine are going OK.

I know it might be a bit late but here's a photo of the pin alignment, as suspected they are pretty much inline. I fitted the heavy duty 0.75" master cylinder, the clutch works better but is very sensitive, so too much travel at the slave I think. I'm going to try the standard 0.7" master I think.

The pins inside the gearbox are set so you can drive them out with a pin punch into a space behind, looking at the photo I posted above I'd say the two sets of pins are close to lining up.

I don't remember, sorry, I have another one I grabbed out of a wreckers but it's not with me, I didn't look much at the top pins.

I grabbed the pivot and lever together, the roll pin holes for the clutch bearing fork lined up fine though, so I think that means copy the alignment of the micra one...?

I've fitted a 0.75" heavy duty mini clutch master cylinder, seems better and an easier, neater fit, I'll let you know as the clutch beds in.

It's probably better to have more movement rather than too little, there's a return spring around the shaft in the micra box that isn't in the Pulsar box which causes the clutch to retract further than it otherwise would, I've made bracket with an adjustment bolt to stop it retracting too far so I can use that to manage if I get too much travel but I doubt that'll be a problem... I think it's probably best the spring isn't in there but I wasn't going to pull the subframe, engine and box out again to take it out after I realised... it might actually help anyway...

I'm not sure but I think I might have been better off using the mini clutch master cylinder, as I'm not getting enough movement at the slave, the Pulsar master is 5/8" and a mini clutch master is 0.7" I'll give it a go and let you know...

I ended up bending the water pipe in, turned out kinda neat, but does make it a bit harder to get the gearbox on I think, one of the transmission bolts is a bit of a PITA now too. I mounted the master by building a spacer to move it up probably about 40mm and shortened and redrilled where the clevis pin goes through, the pushrod is adjustable so that helps to fine tune the length.

I'm thinking I might be able to bend the pipe further underneath the thermostat and leave all my plumbing unchanged. I'd have to cut off the mount near the thermostat but can replace it on the other side of the pipe. There's a starter to get around at the back, there's the option of going behind the starter which would mean no need to modify the mini radiator.

I just had a look on my installed engine and the coolant pipe from the waterpump uses the same piece of real estate as the top of this lever, OK if you plan to modify this water pipe (as many do so they can fit an unmodified mini radiator) but as my radiator is already modified and I'm already setup with the cable clutch I think it means I'm staying cable... unless I get further problems

Yeah no one else knows I think, I put mine together yesterday before it goes into the car next week hopefully. I got the idea from Gizfab YouTube as he put the micra cable setup into the qg18de gearbox, so I figured the reverse should be possible. I've got a heavier clutch going in so hydraulic should help, if a clutch cable snaps it often loses the fork off the release bearing meaning you may have to split the box to get it back on, hopefully the hydraulic is more reliable and fails in a nicer fashion.

I was just looking at your thread and I've been working on the same solution to making the clutch hydraulic, I took the whole pivot there's two roll pins that allow the clutch release fork to come off. Mine is a new one as I wasn't going to split the box from the engine at the wreckers. I think I'll try to mount the clutch master but I think it'll need spacing up or the rod shortened. gotta love Nissan's parts interchangeability.

Yeah they do a front subframe in America for the Honda B series and used to do a rear for 4wd... it gets rid of the Hydrolastic though so involves some work there. AFAIK the Landcrabs were Austin 1800s not the 1100s at least here in Australia.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't each bank look like a 3 cylinder engine with crank throws separated by 120 degrees, and firing every 240 crank degrees? If so I don't get his unmatched pairs comment, straight 6s seem to merge the first 3 and last 3 or all 6 into 1, which suggests the same thing is going on as with 4 cylinder engines LCB for lower end torque, 4 into 1 for peak hp. I think I'd merge the 3 into 1 and then try to get the same or similar length to the muffler, maybe crossover pipes before entering the muffler to get the extra length?

You'll need to take the head off, the blocks are the same so the difference in stroke is made up by the conrods on the cg10de being longer, you'd need to remove the cga3de pistons from thier rods and put the cg10de pistons on. Probably want to double check wrist pin to piston top height is the same as cg13de and cg10de pistons. I put cg10de pistons in my new engine. The cg13de bearings are graded so that makes bearings swapping over probably less likely...

I didn't know there was a dizzy version of the cga3de the Aussie ones are all dizzy cg13de so it makes it simple but we don't get some of the variety and options, they halted imports before the facelift. I believe they were UK made. The cams between COP and dizzy may actually be interchangeable thinking about it as there's a drive slot at the rear of the exhaust cam which may just not be used. I got a lot of info from the micra forums in the UK but forgot most of the stuff that didn't apply to the cg13de.

Gearbox sounds good then. You can use CG10DE pistons to increase the compression which is what my new engine does. Cg13de cams are more aggressive than cg10de cams it's an upgrade for those with a cg10de. I think the cga3de is slightly different to a cg13de cam but compatibility is an issue as there's no dizzy drive and probably other things. If you can get a running engine that makes more sense especially at this stage, no sense getting bogged down in an engine rebuild, I built an engine because I got it cheap and as a learning experience but it was expensive. The later micras have NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) which uses a different ECU which can't get Nistune and is a pain to work around as you need the key, transponder ring and the ECU as a set unless you go standalone. I'd look for an early cg13de, sorry I don't know when the changeover happened we only got the dizzy cg13de non NATS here.

yoeddynz sent me to check out your thread... The dizzy engines really aren't too bad in my experience, I've had no failures of dizzy or throttle body (touch wood) and depending how far you're going to push it the dizzy seems up to the task. I also used to think the cg10de small gearbox would be nice but my cg13de box fits and frankly I think the ratios are pretty ideal except 1st is too short but the others are pretty good on 10 inch wheels 3,200rpm at 100km/hr and 3,500? at 110km/hr... I forget but it's perfectly happy sitting at 110km for hours on end and not loud or uncomfortable. I've a sparse build thread here: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/253043-spot-the-micra-mini/# Feel free to ask any questions or message etc. BTW pretty sure you can use the cga3de crank in a cg13de to make a stroker then there's options for pistons out to 73.4mm to almost get a 1400cc

What about a water cooled V twin? https://www.cyclenews.com/2019/10/article/indian-motorcycle-unveils-new-water-cooled-v-twin/