Crispy Posted December 1, 2022 Posted December 1, 2022 I find Minispares Uk cheaper than Minisport for parts. Both are fairly reasonable compared to NZ Retailers, however understand they have overheads and margins they need to cover. If you're importing more parts at any stage let me know. Always keen to collaborate and keep shipping prices down a bit. Quote
Adoom Posted December 2, 2022 Author Posted December 2, 2022 3 hours ago, Crispy said: I find Minispares Uk cheaper than Minisport for parts. Both are fairly reasonable compared to NZ Retailers, however understand they have overheads and margins they need to cover. If you're importing more parts at any stage let me know. Always keen to collaborate and keep shipping prices down a bit. Thanks. In my case, it was cheaper from minisport UK vs minispares UK because they had the gaz shocks and adjusta-ride as a kit. Quote
~Slideways~ Posted December 12, 2022 Posted December 12, 2022 Fck yeah those brakes looks good! 1 Quote
fuzzy-hair-man Posted December 28, 2022 Posted December 28, 2022 On 28/10/2022 at 16:25, Adoom said: Do you recall if the roll pin holes in the shaft for the top lever and the lower fork line up, or are they at a different angle? I know it might be a bit late but here's a photo of the pin alignment, as suspected they are pretty much inline. I fitted the heavy duty 0.75" master cylinder, the clutch works better but is very sensitive, so too much travel at the slave I think. I'm going to try the standard 0.7" master I think. Quote
Adoom Posted December 28, 2022 Author Posted December 28, 2022 8 minutes ago, fuzzy-hair-man said: I know it might be a bit late but here's a photo of the pin alignment, as suspected they are pretty much inline. I fitted the heavy duty 0.75" master cylinder, the clutch works better but is very sensitive, so too much travel at the slave I think. I'm going to try the standard 0.7" master I think. Nice! Thanks for that. I've been busy with the front panel and getting the underside prepped for epoxy primer. Quote
fuzzy-hair-man Posted January 5, 2024 Posted January 5, 2024 I was looking at your subframe work, I reckon it'd be a close thing but you might get the frame in. When I did mine the rail on the sump end goes in between the sump and the gearbox and shares space with the exhaust, means that its not much lower than standard. Trouble is the rail uses the space where standard micra extractors go so the exhaust needs to be custom. 2 Quote
fuzzy-hair-man Posted November 8, 2024 Posted November 8, 2024 With clearance to the tie rods the sump is pretty easily modified, either with a BFH (as I did in my 1st version) or cutting out a section and welding in a new bit, filling the sump up with petrol or similar on top of paper towel to test for leaks. Welding the sump wasn't as bad as I feared so could be an option. Quote
mjrstar Posted July 15 Posted July 15 If you want to improve the shift feel further you could eliminate that through bolt tee setup where it attaches to the shift rod in the gearbox and fit a proper universal. In my honduh I used one from a subaru steering column, no play and super smooth being needle roller. 1 Quote
Adoom Posted July 15 Author Posted July 15 28 minutes ago, mjrstar said: If you want to improve the shift feel further you could eliminate that through bolt tee setup where it attaches to the shift rod in the gearbox and fit a proper universal. In my honduh I used one from a subaru steering column, no play and super smooth being needle roller. Good tip. Do you have any photos how you did yours? Quote
mjrstar Posted July 15 Posted July 15 10 minutes ago, Adoom said: Good tip. Do you have any photos how you did yours? It appears I do not have photographic evidence. But steering universals are a very cheap, good quality option if you can scrounge from pick a part. Quote
fuzzy-hair-man Posted July 16 Posted July 16 My alternator is in a similar position but I integrated the belt roller into the same bracket, I also braced it to the lower row of 6mm bolts that hold on the upper timing chain cover. The image attached isn't the final version but it's all I can find, even with the current bracing at certain revs it jiggled around quite a bit in the dyno. 3 Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 11 Posted August 11 I just went through the serpentine belt measurement technique. I used a string going around the pulleys for the way I needed, with the tensioner disengaged then marked it and measured it. The string was a bit elastic, so I remeasured it with a strop which had no give. It gave me the measurement of 1300mm, but I could only get a 1290mm belt. I thought it would be only a minor adjustment to the bracket i had made, but it ended up being a major. Checked all the measurements and the 1290mm belt to be sure it was the correct length belt and everything measured correctly. So I am not sure what the problem was. I am very interested how you get on. Quote
dmulally Posted August 12 Posted August 12 I have had good luck using painters tape for serpentine belts and just doubling up on itself by a few inches and cutting it off to be able to measure. 2 Quote
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