fuzzy-hair-man

I just finished watching a might car mods where they put a Z pipe in to improve the sound, have you seen these / considered them? Looked at some prices and they made my eyes water, but could be worth copying the concept and seeing if your 3D printing comes out cheaper? https://lpsfab.com/products/formula-z-performance-1-7-8-z-pipe

I tried to find some aero results and found some photos of wind tunnel wool tufting, but I think the wind tunnel was off, so not valid. I say think because the A pillar is probably sharply angled enough that the majority of the side is separated flow, could it be sucking fumes from the exhaust to the open windows? I seem to remember you had a centre exit, was it any better? What about tipped down exhaust tips aiming the exhaust into the air flowing under the car rather than the wake from tyres and the side that might be eddying up?

Have you seen this? X vrs Y vrs H vrs twin on a Ferrari V12, with 6 into 1 headers and 3D printed merge and stepped headers etc: Also nerdy sound graphs... https://youtu.be/mU3n_j_H8uQ?si=Izb2vKBx8q0qNDls

The BMC B series was copied by Datsun Nissan in the A series so there could be a development line to go down? I've thought about a donor for datsun 1200s, and apart from the sr20s ca18 etc I was wondering about Suzuki M series with a Jimny box, the transfer case on the Jimny is separate so no issues there and engine sizes from 1.3 to 1.8. Tuning parts are probably available as the Suzuki Swift uses the M16. The M might work for yours and allow capacity to grow in displacement. I haven't been able to see a plug and play loom for the M series which I find a little strange a I'd have thought worth the swift there'd be some demand...

The following might be of some interest, not sure but skip to about 10mins.

So a rwd diff mounted somewhere in front of the goldwing engine and gearbox right? Hence the lengthened driveshafts, curious he didn't show any of that bit, he might have thought that's where the criticism might come from? I wonder if there's a tiny driveshaft or a housing etc to mount the diff directly to the goldwing gearbox perhaps... Or some other trickery I haven't thought of...

Good work with your new bushes! Putting the resin (the pot and possibly the part in the mould) under vacuum could also help degas the resin. Not exactly sure the best way to achieve it though. A vacuum tank for fibreglass, that's a bit of kit and kind of expensive.

My alternator is in a similar position but I integrated the belt roller into the same bracket, I also braced it to the lower row of 6mm bolts that hold on the upper timing chain cover. The image attached isn't the final version but it's all I can find, even with the current bracing at certain revs it jiggled around quite a bit in the dyno.

It's a 2GR and I'm not all that fussy about engine sounds but this sounds clean and F1 like @22.40:

If your chosen wheels turn out too wide there's different width arch extension panels available that can be put on in place of the current ones. But really with all the weight so low, you don't need a wider track imo and I think the wider guards don't look as good. It's something I've learnt with the mini, more offset outwards increases the leverage the wheel has over the steering (scrub radius) making it torque steer more and wander with the road surface.

A lathe is the logical choice but could you machine it down in a mill or similar as you would a block or head? I was also thinking you could mount it up using a destroyed subbie crank by cutting off the rear main journal and where it mounts to the flywheel but you want to get at that part to thin it out... You might be able to finish it off that way if necessary?

I had a similar issue with oil pressure sensors reading low (below zero at times) what I think happened was the oil pressure relief valve stuck closed(probably common I think) and the electric pressure sensor saw too much pressure, after which it seemed to read 20 psi or so low. Mechanical guage seems much more reliable. Took quite some nervous moments to sort it out... PS: mine were Smiths / Caerbont guages so probably as reliable as lucas electrics...

Thread revival I know but I had been wondering, this was running the pistons and rings from the Prius engine right? I'm guessing but the Prius could run tighter ring gaps to gain efficiency and reduce blow by assuming it would have less compression ratio, less revs and lighter duty because it has the electric motor to help, and well it's a Prius. I'm wondering if the ring gaps closed up jamming the piston in the bore, and the conrod pulling down ripped the bottom off the piston?

Maybe consider the CG13DE out of the Nissan Micra K11? I've put one in my mini, the conversion keeps the original suspension and has basically no mods to the body, the front subframe does need extensive modification but if you keep your original engine and subframe you could slot it back in. The K11 has the same 13" wheels and profile tyres that are on a pair of 13" steelies on my moke (rusty I'm yet to get to work on...) so the gearing is going to be the same as the micra, I run 10" wheels on the mini and I really don't mind the gearing even for highway speeds. I'm running an ATB in my conversion, it took a while to become available but they do exist, ask Matt Humphries in the UK as he's the guru for spares on these engines. http://www.humphrisrallysport.co.uk/ There's a few of the Micra conversions on the mini forum: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/forum/262-nissan/ My mini Spot (not a very good build thread...): https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/253043-spot-the-micra-mini/ There's also a Nissan powered mini facebook page. There's a guy in the UK that makes frames but if I remember correctly they involve cutting the inner wings, Adoom on here is doing a CG13DE mini as well.

With clearance to the tie rods the sump is pretty easily modified, either with a BFH (as I did in my 1st version) or cutting out a section and welding in a new bit, filling the sump up with petrol or similar on top of paper towel to test for leaks. Welding the sump wasn't as bad as I feared so could be an option.