Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Everything I have read on this topic involves the inclusion of a body lift. Does anyone have first hand info on why you need to lift the body? What part (or parts) don't fit or foul due to the body being left in the OEM body position in relation to the chassis. Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

probably because 'they" are usually offroader knuckle draggers :P (order a set of Trucker nuts now!

should be heaps of room, quite a compact motor I understand (only experience form reading the limited internet) and mates SBC race cars 10+ years ago (that Hulk Green stargazer Celica)

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Spencer said:

Ring cartune and pretend to be interested customer.

Yeah I did, well I sent them an email as I got the impression from their YT clips that they were flatout so didn't want to take their time up. Asked for ball park $ for a drive in drive out deal for driving in a 2.8 LN106 then driving out with a ls1 under the bonnet. They said around the 30k mark and that they were not taking on any new work due to current and booked work load. They also said they don't offer a kit to slip the GM engine into a lux - only a UZ. My personal preference is the LS over the UZ so ... I have since started looking at the Aussie sites for costs for the gearbox adapters and engine install kits. I've spent enough time under and around cars to accept that sometimes its better to bite the bullet and buy a kit than fuck around trying to reinvent something that's already been done a heap of times. Still deciding on box type too. Auto or manual. Like the idea of a slusher though. So yeah ... 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

If i get a chance ill go take some photos of my.mates 107 with ls1 in it.  Not sure if body lift but has big suspension lift and diff drop.etc. has lake pipes and is.rowdy as hell

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

May be raising body to be able to lift engine higher away from the live axle pumpkin - and the diff stay above the pumpkin that stops the axle rolling forward under braking 

I had cough(rover)v8 in an ln65 and that was the major clearance issue that would not be a problem in the ifs version 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup my thoughts also is clearance with the diff, and then probably steering box etc. It probably make the job way easier to lift the body for clearance. I have messed around with a 4wd one with a 1UZ ages ago, no body lift but custom sump of course and headers. Rip the motor out and get a LS block dummied up in there and you will immediately see what you have to do :)

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

If your gonna go auto look into using a th700 or even th350/400 from an early chevy blazer or Silverado 4x4 they have a transfer case on the back of the auto box, and will bolt up to ls block with a crank spacer for the torque converter, either commodore for front sump or f body camaro for rear sump boy retain oil filter as standard on the sump most the fabricated ones require external setup, iv done a heap of various ls stuff and lots of wiring and ecu setups if you got questions about what works 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

@vk327 cheers man. I was/am leaning towards the 4L60e that comes in the Commodore already attached to the engine. Are there problems with this type of transmission? My reasoning is I want the overdrive. My intended use centers around being a poser (lol!) using it as my work truck/parts carrier for the most part. The only off-road I foresee is fishing and firewood collecting duties. I'm not into hardcore thrashing of my gear in the mud bro. But yeah, the 4L60e?

I have never owned a car that uses an ECU but know they store codes and stuff that can tell the story to some extent of what they monitor. What sort of scanner would one buy to read a 2000 WH Ls1 Commodore?  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, just checked online. I need a OBD2 I think. I see them on TM. Does anyone know if there are ones to stay away from or types to seek out for some reason? I'm getting one because I intend to purchase a running Ls1 powered donor car in order to ensure I have all of the parts the factory supplied. I want to be able to scan it prior to purchase plus I take it I'll be using the scanner once the engine has been transplanted in the future so is required' buying for me. Thinking aloud.

Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

Ok, just checked online. I need a OBD2 I think. I see them on TM. Does anyone know if there are ones to stay away from or types to seek out for some reason? I'm getting one because I intend to purchase a running Ls1 powered donor car in order to ensure I have all of the parts the factory supplied. I want to be able to scan it prior to purchase plus I take it I'll be using the scanner once the engine has been transplanted in the future so is required' buying for me. Thinking aloud.

talk to trevor at holden diagnostics and get the SOE scan tool package,  its dedicated holden LS scan software,

4l60e are a but rubbish  in stock form  also know as box o neutrals  if its got a few ks on it or been given a tough life, the th700 is the 4l60e mechanical predecessor which is a 4 speed like the 4l60e,  mainly say that route as they had the transfer case options, some of the later chevy had 4x4 4l60e with an electronic control on it but are know to be problematic,  4l60e commodore box is fine if you just want rwd i think from memory  the 4x4 box has a different tailshaft and housing setup to rwd

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

main things to  look out for on  a donor car is knocking or ticking noises LS1 lifters are known to  tick  from about 150-180k on the clock (heads off job to replace), and what  does it drive like it should be fairly responsive and rev freely,  watch out for doughy or laggy  shifts in the auto,  clunks or long delay as it goes into  gear/ reverse check  trans fluid it should be nice and clean and not smell burnt,  dirty or burnt smell indicates burnt up clutches/bands,  dead o2 and knock sensors are common and will make the throttle response doughy

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got one.  Genlll 5.7 Has done 360k in a 2000 WH Statesman. Has got the 4L60e auto trans. Drives/runs sweet. No funny noises or smells. Paid 5k for it with no WOF or reg. $190 later and I had 12 months reg and a years WOF. It flew through the WOF. Happy as. First 9 years of its life was owned by 3 or 4 companies. The last 11 years was owned by 2 private owners, 1 of them for 10 years and the last one for a year. Everything seems to work and I'm good with it. 

986728328_20210114_201132(Large).thumb.jpg.f07800796b528ccb26df6a34ce67d582.jpg

2085341449_20210114_200857(Large).thumb.jpg.c82deb358efbfe7bea635b1a3bb78172.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...