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1 hour ago, rusty360 said:

Cool thanks for the info. Were could I get the info for a crush space? I could make a new one if need be.

Mate, you won't be making a collapsible spacer at home me thinks. If you are going to be making anything - it will be a solid spacer. You read about guys saying they made one blah blah and seemingly like its an easy 5 min job on a lathe. Its not. It involves some very tight tolerances being kept, some decent measuring equipment and the hardest thing .... a source for obtaining shims. On top top of this is the design of the diff ... if its a Banjo or a Salisbury has massive implications from an ergonomic POV if you are R&D'ing a homebuilt solid spacer setup. Can you buy a collapsible or solid spacer kit for an early Holden diff? . Whats an EH diff - Banjo or ? The Aussies must have something.

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31 minutes ago, Toddy415 said:

Question regarding 9inch drum brakes, my impala has a 9inch in it and took a look at the drums on it in the weekend. One shoe on each side had delaminated and were floating in the drum and one side is missing the guide for the adjusting cable so cable is just floating around. Now i have no idea what car the diff was out of so when ordering new shoes does it matter as long as I get the right size or are there variences in the shoes for different models? 

Second question is the current shoes are 2" wide but drums measure 2.5" is this normal to create tollerance or the wrong shoes have been put in? Was thinking 2.5" shoes in the 2.5" drums might be to tight? 

3rd question is there is a bit of grease seeping out into one of the drums how hard are these seals to replace? 

Cheers Michael

Get your shoes relined (if they are the correct ones that suit your drums etc)

I'm not really familiar with OEM 9" drum setups but I'd be guessing the guide thingy you are talking about would be the same in most of the other 9" drum offerings. They'd be side dependent though. Each side would mirror the other so you need to get the side you are after.

The 9" came with 3 different brake offsets as well as several different shoe widths. You'l be able to see straight away if the drums don't match the backing plates. The drums have that receiver groove thing going on with the backing plate. Furthermore, if the shoes look obscenely skinny compared to the drum then someones probably swapped them in at sometime during the past. You beable to see the wear pattern in the drum. They are designed to be all used' - if that makes sense.

There are 3 different bearing sizes and 2 different types. What have you got? Each of the 2 types have their own way of controlling oil leakage. If Hypoid (it is oil and not fluid, yeah?) then regardless of the bearing type - it all needs changing out. In one case the bearing contains the primary oil seal so must be changed as a unit and in the other - its seal has failed so allowing oil ingression that will lead to shitting your bearing (its supposed to be sealed) The main oil seal for this type will be located inside the axle housing.  The seal in/on the bearing is the last resort and is there to protect the bearing.

Chur.    

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14 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

Get your shoes relined (if they are the correct ones that suit your drums etc)

I'm not really familiar with OEM 9" drum setups but I'd be guessing the guide thingy you are talking about would be the same in most of the other 9" drum offerings. They'd be side dependent though. Each side would mirror the other so you need to get the side you are after.

The 9" came with 3 different brake offsets as well as several different shoe widths. You'l be able to see straight away if the drums don't match the backing plates. The drums have that receiver groove thing going on with the backing plate. Furthermore, if the shoes look obscenely skinny compared to the drum then someones probably swapped them in at sometime during the past. You beable to see the wear pattern in the drum. They are designed to be all used' - if that makes sense.

There are 3 different bearing sizes and 2 different types. What have you got? Each of the 2 types have their own way of controlling oil leakage. If Hypoid (it is oil and not fluid, yeah?) then regardless of the bearing type - it all needs changing out. In one case the bearing contains the primary oil seal so must be changed as a unit and in the other - its seal has failed so allowing oil ingression that will lead to shitting your bearing (its supposed to be sealed) The main oil seal for this type will be located inside the axle housing.  The seal in/on the bearing is the last resort and is there to protect the bearing.

Chur.    

Whats the easyest way to confirm which bearing type / size I have? 

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5 minutes ago, Toddy415 said:

Whats the easyest way to confirm which bearing type / size I have? 

On those things ... by pulling an axle. It'll be either a ball or a tapered roller. If its a tapered roller it'll be a Timken SET20 and you'll be the owner of a late model big bearing Torino style housing. If its a ball bearing style and it measures 3.150"/80mm then it will also be big bearing but the early style. Ifs its a ball bearing but smaller than 80mm in diameter, then it'll be a small bearing type. Pull an axle man. See what spline you have got at the same time. You can't go off the old 1/2" or 3/8" rule anymore ... I've seen tapers come out of holes where there should have been a ball. They obviously knew what they were doing because they had removed the seal too. Just saying. 

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3 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

On those things ... by pulling an axle. It'll be either a ball or a tapered roller. If its a tapered roller it'll be a Timken SET20 and you'll be the owner of a late model big bearing Torino style housing. If its a ball bearing style and it measures 3.150"/80mm then it will also be big bearing but the early style. Ifs its a ball bearing but smaller than 80mm in diameter, then it'll be a small bearing type. Pull an axle man. See what spline you have got at the same time. You can't go off the old 1/2" or 3/8" rule anymore ... I've seen tapers come out of holes where there should have been a ball. They obviously knew what they were doing because they had removed the seal too. Just saying. 

Thanks for the info I appreciate it as im still learning all this stuff. Ill pull an axle and see what I have got cheers. It also has finned drums which doesnt seem to be super common? So just to clarify you think since the drum surface is 2.5" wide it should have a 2.5" shoe? 

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The bigger drums had the fins from what I can see and yeah - I am saying 2.5 for 2.5. I don't know for sure but it makes sense to me ... or why would Ford make them any bigger than they absolutely had to. Go well. You must be running two different stud patterns aye matey. 

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3 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

The bigger drums had the fins from what I can see and yeah - I am saying 2.5 for 2.5. I don't know for sure but it makes sense to me ... or why would Ford make them any bigger than they absolutely had to. Go well. You must be running two different stud patterns aye matey. 

Yip 2 stud patterns but may sort it at some stage but focusing getting the car back on the road first. Not a huge problem though 

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34 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

The bigger drums had the fins from what I can see and yeah - I am saying 2.5 for 2.5. I don't know for sure but it makes sense to me ... or why would Ford make them any bigger than they absolutely had to. Go well. You must be running two different stud patterns aye matey. 

Mine are only 10" drums to

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Axle seals are easy to replace Much like any other diff/axle seal

You could get your shoes relined by Safe r Brakes or someone similar.

Could you use a cable guide out of an Australian BW diff, or if it's the auto adjuster you can delete it the dont work well anyway.

The drum v shoe is pretty common, don't worry. Unless you can see wear marks where shoes have run on the unused section of drum.

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12 minutes ago, Valiant said:

Axle seals are easy to replace Much like any other diff/axle seal

You could get your shoes relined by Safe r Brakes or someone similar.

Could you use a cable guide out of an Australian BW diff, or if it's the auto adjuster you can delete it the dont work well anyway.

The drum v shoe is pretty common, don't worry. Unless you can see wear marks where shoes have run on the unused section of drum.

Ill get a photo of it to compare when i take the wheel back off im pretty sure it was missing on one side or i just missed it. So you dont need to run the auto adjusting cable and associated parts? 

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I don't, others may disagree.

I took mine off and added a small spring to hold the adjuster in.

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45 minutes ago, Toddy415 said:

Ill get a photo of it to compare when i take the wheel back off im pretty sure it was missing on one side or i just missed it. So you dont need to run the auto adjusting cable and associated parts? 

if need be you can get a ford rear brake hardware kit which includes the cable you need.

http://www.northwesternford.co.nz/brake-hardware-c-113_205_384.html

this guy is good to deal with also 

i have always phoned and ordered the parts

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I always leave the auto adjust thing out of valiant brakes too

 

Also I'd be wary of changing shoe linings away from what size you have, you might find someone has gone to a narrower shoe to prevent the rear brakes locking up 

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Pic for thread. 

Here's a shot of @furyimp cutter. The tips which came with it were up to fuck all/ too soft. (Chinesium) Replacement ones which were much better were sourced (also from China) at a tiny fraction of what they would have.cost locally.

Screenshot_20191204-163719_Gallery.jpg

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Nice bro. How many passes? Must be several because those chips are not electric blue like my ones come off like. Whereabouts is the old man grabbing the axle with the indexer? At the end or along the shaft somewhere? Cool to see this kinda stuff.

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I presume hes putting a cut on the outside of the wheel flange while holding the axle by the bearing journal. Hes turning  both the wheel flange, and the bearing journal down to Valiant size from AU coon size

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Yep. He's holding the big end in a divider by the brake register. He's doing light cuts because he's got no support behind the axle and the color of his chips say so. He'll be ever so careful when he's doing his test fits with a side gear with the tailstock removed ... all that axle sticking out unsupported. He'll chock it up using that big hunk of iron sitting in the middle there. Its almost if i am there, aye?! Lol! I love seeing the different setups and are reasonably versed in the challenges of the task in hand.

He won't be turning down the bearing journal OD if that core is from an AU. They are the same size as Valiant used already/in stock form. He maybe attempting to alter the brake offset distance? Thinning the inside hub shoulder down? Ummm ... the brake register hub diameter would be bigger on the Ford too? Good stuff. Keep us posted.

 

 

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