bonkas tired old Lancer EX - Engine Swap/Build Thread

[Roman]

You need to run the voltage sense wire all the way on its own to the battery.

Or otherwise diagnose it further.

Buying a new battery isnt the fix here.

[flyingbrick]

David is right as usual. Run a nice new sense wire over to the battery positive and check volts again.

 

[bonkas]

My issue is I am retrofitting a newer 90s alternator and only using the sense and bulb wires, auto electrician said voltage would be high as it is not computer controlled. 

Not sure there is any way around this without putting old anemic one back in... 

When I tested the sense wire it had exact same voltage as at battery, will need to check again. 

[Nominal]

8 hours ago, bonkas said:

My issue is I am retrofitting a newer 90s alternator and only using the sense and bulb wires, auto electrician said voltage would be high as it is not computer controlled. 

Not sure there is any way around this without putting old anemic one back in... 

When I tested the sense wire it had exact same voltage as at battery, will need to check again. 

Auto electrician is not making sense. Computer controlled alternator my ass.

How exactly is it wired?

[bigfoot]

I have an RVR alternator on my LB. Used the 2 wires that went from the alternator to the loom(instead of the external reg) Works well so far, pumps out 14.7v to battery in boot

[bonkas]

1 hour ago, bigfoot said:

I have an RVR alternator on my LB. Used the 2 wires that went from the alternator to the loom(instead of the external reg) Works well so far, pumps out 14.7v to battery in boot 

Exactly this ^

I am only using the S and L Pins and getting about 15.2v.

The alternator was tested and put out ~14.5v which I was happy with but 15 just seems too high.

I have had to charge this battery a few times, maybe this is the issue... Maybe if I give it time the voltage will drop as battery charges.. The battery was only at around 12.2 resting voltage when the car was started.

[bigfoot]

What was your alternator from? As far as I remember, it was only the really late alternators (evo 8 on) that were ecu controlled. Mine was from a n23 rvr, plenty available and bolt straight on. Also keeps it simple

[bonkas]

Was from a 96 Lancer

[bonkas]

Hmm there is voltage on the wire to the sense pin... maybe it's a dodgy connection in the plug/alternator.. would this be a fault of no voltage on the sense pin?

[cletus]

Carbs sound cool

 

@1.54 in your video sounds like it is pinging though, might be too much timing?

[Scrubb]

On 06/04/2019 at 10:27, cletus said:

Carbs sound cool

 

@1.54 in your video sounds like it is pinging though, might be too much timing?

Haha, yeah! The noise went away when we took out the loose catch can we realised was left rattling around in the engine bay

[Roman]

Awesome result! 

That's some great power, especially since at a fairly low rpm 

Look forward to seeing how it goes when it's running a little richer. 

Bring to drag day plz! 

[bonkas]

Dunno 'bout drag day @Roman but will definitely be at 2020 nats!

The bucking misfiring feeling when cruising has put me off driving it too far. This was not an issue before they dicked with my distributor so I suspect it's timing related.

It does seem quick but the slow gearbox and my slow brain make for some very slow gear changes and the gears run out fast haha.

Also @Roman the voltage seems to have settled down to about 13.9-14.4v now, not sure what was going on, flat battery doing wierd stuff?

[Roman]

Post fuel economy dataz when you return plz 

So far a lot more impressed with this setup than I would have imagined.

Suits the car so well too. This whole thing is just great.

I'm sure you'll have worked out all of the niggles soon enough.

[Roman]

Hello @bonkas, I'm curious if there were any further updates on this car? 

 

[bonkas]

Sorry for the late reply, due to covid and everything getting cancelled and life getting in the way I havent been logged into the forum a while to realise there were replies to this thread!

 

Car is pretty much unchanged but I am driving it around.

Mileage is pretty poor, I get about 230km from a full tank.

bucking issues come and go, I still beleive it is timing related, had to back timing off a lot as was pinging on dyno and going up hills etc. had the carbs tuned the best I could afford (dyno time, tuner and spare parts are not cheap!) the issue is still there but not as extreme.

It has started an oil leak from the front crank seal, replaced with new seal but still leaking so I am not sure I am able to make it to a drag day with this issue. Hoping a speedy sleeve will resolve this issue as the seal over the years has worn a bit of a groove in the shaft, even positioning the deal a few mm back and forward of it default seating location has not helped.

Are you going to the nats in march @Roman I will be there if you wanted to take a look.

[tortron]

deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

 

I wonder if it's like my GN, with the dome and the squish bands it gets a weird flame front and "pings", improved with higher octane, and then again with modding the squish areas

[bonkas]

34 minutes ago, tortron said:

deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

 

I wonder if it's like my GN, with the dome and the squish bands it gets a weird flame front and "pings", improved with higher octane, and then again with modding the squish areas

Yup all of this was done. It is a bit annoying to be running higher compression than we wanted, all of these work around could have been avoided. But, I think we are in a pretty good place now, car is running good enough now I have made a few longer journeys in it without issue.