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bonkas

bonkas tired old Lancer EX - Engine Swap/Build Thread

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What Fuel pumps do you guys run with your carbs?

I am wanting to delete the Mech Fuel pump and change to electric.

These carbs require 1.5-3PSI and I want to make use of the return on the car also.

Looking at something like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1406301219.htm but unsure whether this regulator contains a return...

If you guys have any recommendations that will be much appreciated.

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I dont know anything about them but just reading the specs that blue seems like it might be a bit much, you might need to crank the regulator down so much (its a restriction) from the max (14psi) to get near to the ideal 3psi max for your carbs you might be better getting a pump with lower pressure for better flow. (You would also need a seperate pressure gauge to know what you are setting it at). Pretty sure Holley does a specific low pressure carb pump

Those box facet style pumps are fine on my set up (i have a malpassi filter king regulator), but other than the twin carbs its pretty close to std.

You could go full retard and have your tank setup for future EFI, and just have the mechanical pump draw from the surge tank for now?

 

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Something like this is very attractive given it's price! and supposedly NZ Made: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1410359255.htm

015L Low Pressure Piston Pump:
12v - up to 2500cc, 1.5L/M, 2psi

It gives 2 PSI which is withen the 1.5-3 PSI (3.5 MAX) Dellorto Advise
It also supplies 2L/min and dellorto specify between 1-2 L/min for 1-2.5L of engine capacity.

Is something like that pump something to stay away from?

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Oi, how did I end up in here?

That is the model I got,  seems okay so far, will know for sure once I get the engine running better, seemed fine for the time it was running. 

But the pump its self works well, quite, self primes, doesn't seem to over power the floats like the 044 I tried out. 

 

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Few more thoughts ive had of this build...

1. Vacuum - Has anyone had any vacuum issues with twin side draft carbs? I hear horror stories but wondering what your experiences have been? I am wanting to hook up the vacuum for the brake assist.

2. Distributor Timing - Are they any old school guys still around who can do some magic on distributors? I have a no-points dizzy and may need to increase or statically set the advance, or maybe I can get away with leaving as is with vacuum advance (Carbs have a vacuum progression port for vacuum advance).

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Have had a wee setback, have received the pistons but they do not have the 10cc dome I had asked for, only 7cc which means the compression ratio I was shooting for will not be correct so further decking of the block and modifying of the pistons is required (deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

This was mis-communication between myself, the agent and the manufacturer and I am unsure where I stand in regards to hitting up the piston agent. I had asked for a 10cc dome which they had done BEFORE cutting the valve pockets so this has left me with 7cc overall.

Bit of a discussion of this over here:

New valves have arrived and seats are being cut this week and cam is being sorted as we speak so hopefully the head will be back with me this week or next and I can start work on manifolds, pistons and block work (balancing, decking etc).

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Small update while I wait for my head and cam to come back. 

Sending headers I rescued from doner car in to get cleaned up. What is the best coating to put on these? 

Also going to source new uprated clutch and have flywheel lightened. 5a2486e92d2ae_2017-12-0412_20_37.thumb.jpg.7bcd0e8102137a234bb84cc579ac4318.jpg

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You bought an oil pump sprocket for a DOHC engine that has a wider timing belt...

  • Sad 1

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Before you crack on with the die grinder on the inlet do some Google work searching 'anti reversion step'. I'll let you make up your own mind.

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You will need that water return to allow water to circulate while it warms up before the thermostat opens. Otherwise you will get hot spots where the water will boil

  • Like 1

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+1 to that

After all this effort please dont cook the head gasket or whatever, for sake of a water line! 

 

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@Roman @fletch Yeah, I have been trying to make this happen to get the water return line but dad isnt having it, thinks it's not needed. He's the kinda guy where his word is law and im having trouble changing his mind.

I think I will plumb the heater line into a tee so it splits off to the return also.

 

@MaxPower thanks for the offier, we will be building  a 2.25" system from scratch.

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Drill a hole in ya thermostat so it can flow during warm up and don't tell ya old man?

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@fletchHaha he seemed to have changed his mind overnight, I have tee'd off the water to the heater so it flows back to the return when the heater is closed.

Water is all plumbed up now! I got to get another fuel pump (which is on the way) as the old one had no flares on the fittings and the fuel hose slides off to easily.

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