Sambo

Sam's D21 Daily

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The ute clocked 300000km under auspicious circumstances today!

 

I got a green arrow to turn left on the way to work, pulled out and slammed straight into the side of a red light runner. He carried on through the intersection and I pulled in behind him waiting for him to stop, but he didn't. When we got on the motorway I called 111 and commenced pursuit of the fugitive! The cops caught us up just as we got off the motorway and slotted in behind him with the lights on and he continued driving while the ute clocked 300 as I tailed the police. The guy eventually stopped when he got to work at New World Albany and immediately admitted to police that he'd run the light, which was a relief as a 15km pursuit tends to mean there aren't witnesses. 

 

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Pretty light damage really, given that the entire side of his car folded up. Steel bumpers vs. Daihatsu tin can.

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You might be on to something there! I quite like some of the terrano bullbars....

 

The panelbeater couldn't match the paint last time, so he repainted the whole side of the car. Hoping to get this side matching now!

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who the fuck continues to drive with police chasing them?? I feel that should be instant license revocation!

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On 21/11/2018 at 10:20, Muncie said:

I hope the cop's pepper sprayed him after you left.

If he didn't get done for failure to stop and arrested I would be very pissed off

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So this is going up for sale shortly. Getting a work truck, and I'll use the money from this to finish my AE85 and buy underfloor insulation :doubt:

 

Send me a PM for an obligation free yarn. For anyone concerned about the collisions above, there was zero structural damage. I pissed the panel beater off by making him triple check both times, the car is better than it's been in probably two decades.

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So yeah, I never ended up selling it, cause I didn't want to. This is now proving to be the right decision (never sell cars!) as I've been made redundant and have to give the work car back. 

The supposedly good new engine has a blown headgasket though. I've ordered a new top end gasket set, and will be replacing the Z24 head with a Z20 head that I picked up a while ago for an EFI conversion. I still want to do the EFI swap, but can't(/shouldn't?) do it right now. Tossing up whether to do rings and bearings at the same time.

I also still have the other kingcab, which now has no rust in the roof, but I didn't bother updating the thread for that. Unfortunately I'm also waiting on an oil pump gasket for it.

 

Until the gaskets arrive I'm going to be riding my bicycle to job interviews.

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Been working on the flatdeck kingcab. So the issue with this was that I couldn't advance the timing past 0* no matter how much I fucked with it, and unsurprisingly it didn't really run very well. The distributor on these can only go in one position, so I spent ages trying to prove to myself that the camchain must be a tooth off, even though that didn't feel right. Then I found out that the distributor is run off the oil pump which runs off the crank, and can be in the wrong position. So all it took was pulling the oil pump off and putting it in the right place, I got it right first go, but I think that was luck more than anything. Here's some pictures of nothing.

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It was still struggling to idle, even with the timing sitting at 10-12*. Pulled the dizzy cap off and the contacts were basically worn down to nubbins, it's a Nissan branded cap, so it may have done 200+kms. Ordered new leads, plugs, cap and rotor from rock auto, hopefully they come soon. Then found a spare dizzy in all my shit so I took the cap and rotor from there, already a big improvement. After a quick test drive it still struggles to climb hills in 3rd, and I think the vacuum operated secondary isn't opening on the carb. A wee while back I designed a part to manually operate the secondary, so I might get that cut out and test it. 

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@Sambo any idea what the timing should be on the Carby z24?

Edit- herp a derp I just read your last post. 10-12 you reckon?

Cheers

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@Beaver Yeah, I've found that to be about right. I also noticed a huge difference swapping to the electronic dizzy, there's one on TM at the moment for $180. Mine was pretty flogged out though, so it was probably the new body etc more than anything. 

 

Just converted the flatdeck ute to a Weber 32/26 yesterday. I was going to get the manual secondary actuator I designed made up, but then I remembered I had all the parts for the swap. When I went to start it the battery didn't have much juice after sitting a couple of weeks, charged it last night and about to go and see if the carb works.

 

Also, both utes had their rear passenger tyres go down, one with a puncture and one with a loss of sealing on the bead. That looked a bit shit with them both sitting out on the road.

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That was anticlimactic.  I went out and put the battery back in but it was still cranking slowly, then I noticed steam coming off one of the grounding points close to the battery. It was pretty corroded and when I went to give it a clean up the bolt sheared off. I started drilling the bolt out, then realised it went right through to the wheel well, so I wound the end out with vice grips, sanded everything, put it back together, aaand.. engine wouldn't start. Didn't even get a cough out of it. 

Maybe someone can help. The pressed in fitting in the carb for the fuel return is very loose, and I was expecting it to just piss fuel out. Is it more likely that this is actually allowing the carb to draw air in instead of fuel?

 

Also, I live down a long driveway, but the car is currently living on the road. Walking up and down the driveway is a massive ball ache whenever I need a tool, especially when it means that I have to pack up all my shit so that my tools aren't out on the footpath for 5-10 minutes while I find stuff. Luckily there's storage space in the engine bay.

Weber.jpg

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