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Gavs GQ Safari Y60


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Safari's and roof rust is like...a thing that definitely will rust.

Either they have roof rust or they are lying.

Triple skinned and condensation builds up inside.

Bit the bullet and started cutting, ended up removing a lot of the roof gutter to get all that (*^*&Y(*&(ing rust bastard cancer fckn fck rust.

 

So I ended up borrowing Adoom's metal bender folder jobbie. I love this thing!
 

New gutter bits:

IMG_7577.jpg.6fd68f260a2994d987e59550a675868e.jpgIMG_7579.jpg.3cafc73b25c41ec687aaf3e22973a90c.jpg

 

BASTARD RUST.

 

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17 hours ago, kiwiplymouth said:

Seal up the factory gaps in the sills,moisture gets in,vaps off up the side of the truck and voila,roof rust. Also keep an eye on the front body mounts under radiator area,they are usually the first to pox out.

Where on the sill is the problem area? My sills show no sign of rust after having it 5 years, but it makes sense if they are letting in water.

I'm slowly getting the roof rust done when I have time.

Inner 'middle' skin has a couple of spots cut out, sprayed fish oil inside while I could get in. Plated holes, etch primed and zinc painted.

Two new gutter lengths spot welded on, drilled holes through to spot weld to inner roof skin as per factory.

Have started cutting and bending sheet for the outer skin, which will then be spot welded inside the new gutter.

IMG_7624.jpg.f1f1933ef41731511a504e702a6d916f.jpg 

 

 

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L200s have the same problems, even street only 2wd. I think it's more to do with airflow through the panels. Happens with or without headliners (I thought it may be a condensation issue) not an issue on the 2nd gens which have true flow through venting.

I wouldn't seal them. I would waxoil everything and flush them out after a muddy or sandy crossing

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18 hours ago, kiwiplymouth said:

Are you planning on treating welds from the inside once you are finished? Be a lot of good work to was5e if you don't. Looks like you are winning. And yep,little humans eat money and even more time,worth both though.

Yep I sprayed wax oil behind the patches on the inner skin. I just did it after each patch.

For the outer skin I am going to spray more wax oil in from the back corner before I weld on the last pieces.

I painted the back of the panels before welding too. Some will have come off with welding heat but I sprayed more into the gaps too.

Plan on keeping this for ages/life/when we run out of diesel fuel I'll bribe the fish n chip shop.

 

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37 minutes ago, kiwiplymouth said:

Good shit man. I knew a guy that made bio fuel from veg oil,ran my safari on a full tank,it never ran better. I was warned it has a massive cleaning effect on the engine and that I should change oil and filters after the first tank. Prick of a process making it though,buying methanol, and some other ingredient I can't remember, lye or something. And then all the by product to get rid of,glycerin I think it was. Makes a good oil remover though.

I looked into it a while ago and the effort versus pump wasn't worth it but at some stage it probably will be.

I think one option was adding something to used cooking oil (lye maybe?) and leaving it in the sun for weeks until it separated and you used the thin top layer.

I'd like to try it someday but would be better to experiment with a bush truck, or maybe a diesel generator?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sprayed fish oil stuff in the roof, sills and all 6 doors. 

Excess shit coming out everywhere haha, good thing I plan to resurface the driveway one day.

 

You can see a couple of pin holes in the welds in the primered area where it seeped through.

IMG_7966.jpg.c7758bf942186133a4f4414429cfa583.jpg

 

New gutter section on the rear:

IMG_7969.jpg.33e28f9cf034ac1e38b0820180f6cd03.jpgIMG_7970.jpg.c1766b36f543c4ca3822458ed00a8b96.jpg

 

 

Getting there...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up having to rush this, so got it to a decent state and rattle can'd it. It turned out okay anyway and I want to respray the whole roof with the compressor spray gun later.

Just needed it sealed up so I can use it this weekend. 

But I know it's all new metal and fish oiled etc so will last another 28 years...probably.

IMG_8937.jpg.0b5a5e6409379e1bf4c5a950ceadd0fc.jpgIMG_8935.jpg.e83f6fb486d9d9df07d9421c46290d20.jpgIMG_8939.jpg.b2d36734f4f50a6978fe00628c95354d.jpg

 

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15 hours ago, NickJ said:

Whats the go with spraying over rattle can, does it need to be stripped back or no worries?

Depends what you are painting over it with, if 2K it would probably need a sealer coat sprayed first else it might react.

I'm no expert but that's what I've found with some research. 

If just spraying with 1K stuff or like my trailer I sprayed with mitre10 KillRust enamel top coat and it had no issues.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Looking at installing water meth and while I was in the engine bay I wondered what this was and found it had a huge earth or positive cable tucked up under the battery tray going nowhere and an opposite terminal not connected to anything either (with no cable at all). 

Then one small wire going to the loom and a small spade terminal next to it with nothing connected.

In my 5-6years of owning it, it won't have been doing anything. No part number on it....so WTF is it? Some kind of 24v power reducer?

The writing on the top is just me so I remember which vehicle it came from in 10 years haha.

 

 IMG_0690.jpg.56ef0b039903941a1fc334e8d2533508.jpgIMG_0691.jpg.bdc942b4ad810ed54e67e03292e9103c.jpg

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