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Gavs GQ Safari Y60


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Temporarily installed this old Aquamist set up I got off Adoom ages ago, receipt says he bought it 10 years ago so is the older type pump.

I just wanted to see what kind of effect it would have, the kit came with 0.5mm, 0.6mm and 0.7mm jets which looks to be about 160cc - 375cc.

Since it just temporary I just used an old antifreeze bottle to hold the fluid and ran the pump etc under the drivers seat, I plan to mount it all in the back but I need to get some more 4mm ptfe hose.

With the smallest jet and straight water it didn't seem to make much difference, so I went straight to the 0.7mm jet and about 30% meth. 

It really makes a difference, it pulls much better in the top end when previously it felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel.

So I'll find a supplier of the tube and install it properly, I'm wondering about getting a t-piece and seeing if it would work with two jets maybe pre-turbo with the really small jet.

You can get up to 1.2mm which will flow 700cc's but why not just run two of the current jets?

 

IMG_0723.jpg.2cf26b9b486696105b4fbaaa50edd02d.jpgIMG_0715.jpg.eed6fc3b5b88b2f7f7a299e382aac573.jpg

 

 

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I was surprised it didn't seem to make a difference to the EGT's, but the ass dyno tells me it definitely pulls better.

Plus the steam cleaning it'll be getting is nice.

Oh and I set it to come on at 7psi, the wastegate is set to 14psi. 

Have ordered a 24v radiator fan to fit under the intercooler too.

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The crank case breather is plumbed into the turbo intake which has put a decent amount of oil into the intercooler so I found some bits and pieces in the garage to make a cheap ass catch can to put inline.

- Aluminium tank from broken primer gun

- Random brass fitting from something or other

- Bought some stainless scourers

- Left over oil resistant rubber hose

IMG_0732.jpg.f52d8d4c96f3062a4020adb59fd0f906.jpgIMG_0733.jpg.2419938aa84a9c9095522119c065680e.jpg

 

It'll probably work better than the Ebay stuff that has nothing inside.

...Better than nothing at least.

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24v radiator fan arrived.

So I took the intercooler off, sprayed some degreaser through it, then covered the ends and poured some kerosene inside and left it in the sun.

Poured out looking oily.

Sprayed more degreaser through and it looks clean.

Filled with hot water and car wash a couple of times.

FIlled and rinsed with hose.

Super clean inside.

 

Fan is the perfect size (yay meth):

IMG_0765.jpg.b6cb06518459c7cf5b5becb827ff4d21.jpgIMG_0766.jpg.083a2e9e8178c7076fbce52f9e232826.jpg

 

Its back in and with manual wiring to batteries it really pulls the air through!

Need a 24v relay to wire it in with a switch on the dash.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update on the 50/50 water meth injection, it LOVES it, man what a difference. It revs out freely like a totally different engine, not something I ever expected and on the motorway it pulls way better in 5th.

I'd heard that diesel turbo's love water/meth injection but man it really does! It really feels like a different engine.

I'm looking at getting a TD27 turbo injection pump for the boost compensator bits, so later on I can get that built into a bigger TD42 pump since I am still on the standard NA pump with the max fuel screw turned up (might be a bit more in it still).

But in saying that, it's going so much better that maybe I won't need it I mean the 50% meth is like an extra injector anyway. I'll need to tow a heavy weight and see how it goes.

 

 

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17 minutes ago, kiwiplymouth said:

Have you removed or cleaned the little thimble filter that sits in the pump inlet? They tend to block up and restrict flow. I forgot to mention it ages ago.

I'm pretty sure I check this a few years ago after reading about this being a thing, but I'm not 100% sure. A 'few years ago' was chaotic time with the first born so maybe I need to double check it.

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On 28/01/2019 at 19:26, Stu said:

An electric lift pump also helps, you can run them on a hob switch so they kick in at certain boost.

Thats a cool idea, I would prefer a more fail safe thing than adding a 3rd fuel supply system. Maybe if I wasn't already using the water injection.

Building a bigger injector pump makes sense.

I ran out of water/meth the other day, so had to unplug it (no low level cut off switch). I immediately missed it. 

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26 minutes ago, Stu said:

Bighorn compensators also work apparently.  Ive got one but havent had a go at fitting it to my pump yet.

I have a Td27 pump now, not sure if the compensator can fit the td42 pump or if you change the internals of the td27 pump for 6 injectors. 

Guess I'll find out when I get to that stage.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Window regulator gear ran out of teeth in the Bunnings car park, while it was half way down. Which was annoying because I was only there to return their stupid pre-emptied mig gas bottle.

New one:

 IMG_1198.jpg.89d635953915aa98d76f6d82745fdaa2.jpg

 

While I was in there, I put in some sound deadening sheets.

Took a photo after I'd put the sheet in to the left, all that was from factory was the small bit in the centre. Weirdly, when I got this Safari it felt so quiet compared to my Landcruiser BJ73, will be interesting to see what a difference sound deadening all doors will make.

IMG_1200.jpg.ed8801e2c3b51ec6aa11c3c23ffd5074.jpg

After, almost all inside surface covered.

IMG_1202.jpg.3bc0bfcc347a0b1e71ff39e332ed765b.jpg

 

When I closed the door it sounds and feels like a luxury car, so impressed. 

For example when I close the other three doors they close with a echo'y metallic bang rattle of sorts, or if you tap on the door skin its the same.

But the door with the sound deadening sheets inside closes with a satisfying muted thud, it weirdly makes the door feel more solid.

 

Will definitely be doing the other doors.

 

  

 

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Oooh shit, such luxury! I might have to do this to mine, except for every time I take the door card off I fear ripping the high quality (*shit*) 5mm fibre board or whatever.

Where did you get the sheets from?

 

PS: those regulators are a bitch, Ive replaced 3 out of 4 now, old Dave @ Just4x4 sells new replacements at an ok price.

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1 hour ago, Stu said:

Oooh shit, such luxury! I might have to do this to mine, except for every time I take the door card off I fear ripping the high quality (*shit*) 5mm fibre board or whatever.

Where did you get the sheets from?

 

PS: those regulators are a bitch, Ive replaced 3 out of 4 now, old Dave @ Just4x4 sells new replacements at an ok price.

It made so much difference to the one door its crazy. I plan on spraying underseal under the floor too which should make it even better. Will be good for long trips.

Yeah these regulators do seem to die, I replaced the drivers one and the passenger rear one a year ago. Now this was the passenger front one, 29 years isn't bad though right? Assuming its original. I've gone with the $75 ones on Trademe, there are $39 ones but I didn't want to be replacing them again. I think Nissan Genuine was too much when I checked.

The sheets have been sitting in the garage for a few years, they were for another car that I ended up selling. Think it was about $200 for 10 big sheets on Trademe...

*checks TM*

Looks like these:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/other/listing-1950726180.htm?rsqid=3a3451b6c0c841ceb0d58ee0fccbff51 

It goes on really well and seems to work. 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Wof man noted rust, I knew about the bit on the back but had never been a problem. Difficult one was around the door hinge where I hadn't seen it.

Looks like it was repaired previously and not rust protected behind the plate. 

Started cutting it out and found a support behind it which had cracked, strange break... Had a look inside the door and everywhere else is rust free so it was worth doing the work.

 

Arrows from wof man showing rust coming through on the original steel behind the previous owners weld. I've had this 6 or so years now I think and never saw this welded on plate.

Then found the support cracked:

IMG_2754.jpg.740b79cfe5494e4ccd5e195d1f27a790.jpg

 

Once I had a couple of spot welds on the crack I could completely cut out the plate knowing it would all line up again:

IMG_2757.jpg.45028fb74682f03a63b416f9e0fed688.jpg

 

Bucket of paint on the welded support thing, I welded some ribs going down from the weld figured it can't hurt.

IMG_2760.jpg.8d285c53f7d3bb2ef77e447356e95ade.jpg

 

Plate welded over the top, bit of a rush job so not my best work but its solid and flat:

IMG_2791.jpg.6f9af76a637d487c9629bae0279db608.jpg

 

Removed rear bumper to cut out this section and weld in a new plate, had a couple of reactions with something but again its solid and not a show car lol. Can't see most of it with bumper on anyway:

IMG_2803.jpg.fb6054ddd0ed98dfb4bd228d452dd3e0.jpg

 

And the rear door jam, this one was caused by rust starting around the plastic screw female insert jobby to hold on the wheel arch trim. Had a look inside when cut out and its totally rust free everywhere else in there which is great. Again wasn't worried too much about finish because its mostly under the trim.

 

IMG_2797.jpg.87efc7fcea86e29bed5eb4e2a8e979cf.jpg

 

Good for another 30 years?

 

EDIT: also failed on door hinge play on drivers door and the rear barn door is fcked from the weight of the spare wheel. Tried some suppliers and that lower rear barn door hinge must be pretty common. No one that I tried had stock, one offered to bring in from Japan but that was a 6 week wait.

There's a guy who wrecks Safari's down south, he says he has some with no play. So bought those to get wof. Hopefully they really do have no play.

 

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