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Gavs GQ Safari Y60


~Slideways~
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I've had this about 4 years now, previously I had three (well two and a half) BJ73's Landcruisers that got bash to hell off road. Awesome fun. They were, in order powered by VN V6, then a 3B diesel, then a 13B-T diesel of non-rotary spec.

I then bought a modified 1990 Nissan Safari, because I wanted something with coil springs.

I then proceeded to redo almost everything on it and got it certed.

Everything as in: Changed springs, changed shocks, changed turbo, remade downpipe, fixed exhaust manifold, made 3" exhaust, fixed seats, fitted drop boxes to fix steering, fitted extended trailing arms to fix shit, changed tyres, changed wheels, rewired lights, rewired relays, fixed locker solenoid, replaced terrible cross over pipe, made steel sidesteps, basically to do everything properly!

I'll post up some historical photos later, currently I'm working on fitting this ST205 w2a intercooler:

IMG_1707.jpg.5e758e5bee5b9b3040c92f60e5188edb.jpg

 

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Old terrible turbo set up when I got it.

- Turbo too big, didn't spool till well after the appropriate peak power rpm.

- cross over pipe tiny.

- Turbo also a cheap Chinese piece of carp.

 

4F6F9907-1954-4C97-B74A-8C6DEC3A1A58-429-0000014D15AC564A_zps07b18014.jpg.e1150f56a8d49b5e87d006f0db58ab17.jpg

 

1129AAB7-95C2-4D78-8F4F-D6D1566CD3CA-564-0000014509ACB6FC_zps84d663a9.jpg.720f6b23437322e8e3cb77783b1980da.jpg

76E0E7BA-D36B-4C22-8DD7-69494C3430DC-564-00000144FFE933F0_zpsf9d68d4c.jpg.3189a3d3ef81f956ae3717f1c32553c4.jpg

Upgraded to this:

- Kinugawa TD05-16G with T3 housing. Huge improvement in spool, would 'chirp' 33" muds now.

E6BFF04C-0E4A-4C84-BD9B-D533277F75F3-2242-0000040E1F83580A_zps958c169f.jpg.c1a4eb110a56d5be256c0e8607dca5e4.jpg

 

Old turbo on the right, exh housing far too big.

20BAFC28-1A09-4B28-A73F-2B80DC1F0B58-564-000001451A0A03EE_zpsbdd017fb.jpg.39b60f828c5f5cb2d557e190ed792596.jpg32D7CAD6-6C43-4F17-A948-9D2584FFF4EF-564-000001452E7C2457_zps92d2b0ee.jpg.cc801d41df4274ca16c613a85e07f2ba.jpg

 

 

 

587C5BAA-42D3-4C75-902E-91100311D9D5-564-0000014522C2C06A_zps5f414cfc.jpg

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Changed the cross over pipe to this nice aluminium jobbie from a Volvo (Pick a Part):

67BBF359-288E-4A5E-8EDF-17472D286BF0-564-0000014C1D37E26D_zpsc068cfb6.jpg.b00d03b5958096eb82ddff47de58aff8.jpgBF6D59B8-54F6-423C-A0A1-284A33C1B839-564-000001459019E136_zpsb934e752.jpg.d8f5e05937fa94ed0b59e8b757b824a7.jpg

 

The original Downpipe was TERRIBLE, it was too small a diameter and was even worse because they hammered the tube to clear the manifold so the inside diameter was tiny. Surprised it worked at all.

So I made a 3" mandrel jobbie, it really opened it up:

F4102243-55C8-487D-9FED-AAE9C100691E-564-0000014C335B799D_zpsea100d7a.jpg.4a9ff4b6cf0fc96a199c3bf45dd06a58.jpg716FFCC1-8DC8-4BBB-82DD-41618AF1BC66-564-000001456AFE87EE_zpsa3adde4c.jpg.c1eda1c1cb20094bebc7fc2065ac41e9.jpgF71909ED-0997-4DB0-A0E1-A542C62BB6C5-564-0000014550E1B292_zpsfa4b9463.jpg.52fa54ccf46f0a99fff6848e9be4a1ba.jpg

 

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Bought and installed some 'drop boxes' to fix the radius arm angle, which was making it walk all over the road:

DEBF85A4-734E-459F-89CB-9B0D4DE50169-939-00000223FE952E8C_zps351d5a5c.jpg.f4c3f96021eb33a932c92ed43ca131bf.jpg481C5206-C8C5-4DB6-BB94-AEE835211B37-939-0000022408918D84_zps7ca3cefd.jpg.713ae83f60714060cd188451485754dc.jpg

 

Ratchet straps to pull the axle backwards:

0ACFAC4E-2EDB-4E2B-9F4F-D86A7868E03A-1652-00000344F821F4D2_zps4cfaf9ae.jpg.a19c36d967112405a7e4f39a093f451c.jpg

B96EFBB4-0B0A-4215-BA82-12EA8E88EECE-1652-00000344E2220819_zps7612a1bb.jpg.856745b640524b8e895a7f3ff62c0dc3.jpg

05E2E6D4-9CD3-4A1E-8B68-960A71D655ED-939-00000224103D1808_zps14d2d4df.jpg.76a84863e417bb4b74c1cf84ed3f7793.jpg

 

Heavy duty adjustable front Panhard rod / drag link, to cente axles after lift:

89E508E9-8D3F-449B-9127-7C92A9097C43-2499-000005EDC8CA4BD2_zps5d90979a.jpg

 

Heavy duty adjustable rear panhard rod, to cente axles after lift (was about 1" off centre):

E28A470E-58CC-432E-8B46-9B3AE56ED7C5-2499-000005EDB8054D84_zpsb22f86c4.jpg

9A49C63A-8BB1-41C5-9347-C4EBE23E4D80-2499-000005EDF495B0E9_zpsd38db6b1.jpg

 

Extended trailing arms to correct diff angle:

FF4C5369-9924-4499-9912-B5E21F4C0EB5-5839-00000BB47B2EFE9C_zpsb8eae8b8.jpg

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Next up, exhaust time!

The original exhaust, even after the previous owner had turbo charged it (not very well...) was still the standard tiny press bent one. In the area over the rear solid axle it was about 1.5" in the bends!!

 

So buy some 3" bends and a flexi:

IMG_1980.jpg.6d945168e140e638cd7508ba869653c0.jpg

Weld some stuff:

IMG_1979.jpg.534709e467e49be30841347c81d4a119.jpg

 

Spend hours and hours getting it to curve around stuff and be out of the way.

Finish and paint:

IMG_1978.jpg.b357b33f50aa1ab23d995c0b0f56ebde.jpg

 

Old versus new:

IMG_1977.jpg.788c64afc11feecdaa7b8575c30a1e66.jpg

 

IMG_1976.jpg.0d1a9d4b586ce6ad862cbdb6575ab6bf.jpg

IMG_1975.jpg.ebcc1740b468515ac00a146e71e36678.jpg

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Now for air filter things, when I bought it, it had a K&N 'cold air intake' which is a sort of sealed unit which the previous owner had fit 'inline' between the turbo and snorkel.

Problem was it really wasn't water tight, which makes it pointless for water crossings.

So I sold that and fitted a spare pod filter on a 3" bit of tube temporarily.

Then I finally got round to (a few years) making a sealed air box with a nice big K&N filter inside.

What I ended up doing was removing the second battery (24v system), and fitting two smaller batteries where the other battery was. Then used the empty space to fit an air box.

I made it out of steel (because that's what I can weld), then a bolt down lid made of aluminium, sealed with rubber foam.

 

To test it I blocked the top of the snorkel with my hand and it's perfectly sealed, so much so that it compresses the silcon joiners (see photo) then stalls the engine.

 

 IMG_1981.jpg.27629a647ad86b188291fdb80622bd19.jpg

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Intercooler radiator and water pump install.

Kind of hard to tell from these crappy photos but I've mounted the water pump behind the passenger head light, this is the lowest point I could fit it in the engine bay:

IMG_2001.jpg.91f45d86f1f0e324e48690a2a9a25953.jpg

 

Then the hoses go through holes I hole sawed into the front panel, nice and discreet.

This is behind the front grill going through to the pump:

IMG_1994.jpg.22eb869edee81856d1295227bd92cac2.jpg

 

Intercooler radiator from an ST205, had to trim and modify some stuff to get it to fit:

IMG_1996.jpg.c71cba6c21319596d3b62e7e01a1c78f.jpg

 

 

Hoses from pump to the firewall then to intercooler, will be redoing the rubber hose by firewall to make it neater as well as probably lower:

IMG_1998.jpg.f7281423af5ae538893ceb81c38308cc.jpg

 

That brass (?) tube is left overs from our old gas hot water jobby haha, just happened to be the right size.

Quick test drive and its better, but not as good as I thought. The intercooler is still pretty hot (it is running 1.2bar), I was thinking maybe there is an air pocket since the rubber hose (temporary) by the firewall might be too high. It started pissing down with rain but I checked it a few times and both brass tubes are hot/warm, then when I got home one was cool (while IC itself is still pretty warm verging on hot).

So either its working and I over estimate how much cooling it can do. Or there is an air pocket or not enough water volume?

 

Wiring wise, the pump is 12v and the system is 24v, so to do it properly it needs an inverter/reducer. 

I plan on also installing a water meth injection set up, which is also 12v so planning for this to be in the back I also install the 24-12v reducer in the back. Which meant running a heavy gage cable from the batteries under the carpet/trim to the back then another wire back to the engine bay for the 12v feed to the pump.

It was a pain in the arse running so much wire basically to apposite ends, but it made sense for using the reducer jobbie for future 12v stuff in the back.

Also, I cut off the ST205 pump plug because it over complicates it, now it's just the two wires. 

Wiring:

24v cable from battery > 50AMP fuse > through firewall > down under side trim > Reducer in back > wires for 12v positive and negative output > 15AMP fuse > back up under side trim > through Firewall > 24v relay (switched by ign) > water pump. 

Seems to work well and all fused etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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SUCCESS!

My initial thought about there being air in the lines was right, I've lowered the the high area and with the pump running I was getting big air bubbles and kept topping up till they stopped. 

Test drove it hard up a hill hitting 18psi, definitely pulls better in higher revs. Pulled over and felt intercooler outlet, much cooler! Then the intercooler / water jacket tank and one side was cool to the touch, other side 'warm' then after maybe 20sec the whole thing was cold.

18psi will be some HOT air.

Happy with that! 

Meth injection next!

 

Lowered rubber hose by firewall, shortened brass tube to lower the high point:

IMG_2053.jpg.f7d6ea09111c2d4a93bf8f74ff475100.jpg

IMG_2051.jpg.f8680b73e48e340b79f668afb67ba675.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

New shoes.

Well 2nd hand shoes. I bought some different 33x12.5's to try out, because I've been meaning to change my current ones because they fckn HOWL on the motorway and it would get annoying for long trips with the little boy and wife. I did a 7-8hr round trip with them on to pick up a car a few months ago and it gets old haha.

Even though they are 33" tyres they are actually a bit bigger diameter than my old 33" tyres (similar tread depth). Its a surprisingly common thing. Lots of '35's are more like 34's. It's weird.

These are Hankook MT jobbies, much quieter but still a bit of noise...wayyyy better though and should still be good for offroading if a little less tread gap for the mud than the old ones. I still have some Maxxis Creepy Crawler 35's for more extreme offroading anyway.

IMG_2222.jpg.713fafaf71e6005738a842e89f6e159f.jpgIMG_2215.jpg.88cc8bf69171ea9661c396fd891cc8d3.jpg

 

EDIT: it's secretly an EV, that's what the extension cord is for.

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  • 4 months later...

Had some issues which I suspected was the intercooler leaking water into the intake, confirmed it was the case, got annoyed at the thing.

It was using too much power with the big 24v to 12v inverter as well as driving the water pump all of the time too, so decided it wasn't for me and ripped it all out.

I still had a modified front mount intercooler from an old car so I played around with some ideas and came up with this:

 

IMG_4107.jpg.b26201cd3c05c0f2feffaf882abbd308.jpgIMG_4109.jpg.1daff1fe0395aad0b82064be2956a981.jpg

 

It's currently an interheater because I haven't cut a hole in the bonnet yet. Plan is to try find a Version 8 wrx scoop since they are the tallest and less rounded than other wrx designs which would look silly on a big square box of a 4wd.

Currently in for a WOF, brakes need some work and for once I'm not doing the stuff myself because I don't have time with a 1month old girl  and a 3 year old boy and a 16 year old dog, so I asked the wof guy to do the work.

 

Anyone know a good Subaru wrecker?

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was going to try find a Version 8 wrx scoop but then I found a Torana fibreglass scoop which is wide enough. It's way too long but if I shorten it by maybe 1/3 it'll work.

 

Dummy fit and a rusty Triumph:

IMG_4583.jpg.8bb47a3b1d9a7250dcc2c28e0a78b655.jpg

IMG_4582.jpg.bccb4eb172447304fdcff0a1f1b6354a.jpg

 

After a little thought, I cut a big hole in the bonnet. Not a rectangle because I didn't want to cut too much of the frame:

IMG_4736.jpg.2017837ca5f6c5999a638b06ad47f93d.jpgIMG_4731.jpg.7c5282bebf6c3c82d3adb1debfeb19d8.jpgIMG_4734.jpg.3561b30a5d38f72186bef52620601840.jpg

 

Now I need to figure out a way to seal the gap so the air doesn't just go straight through.

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