car takes a long time to start

[mutiny 730]

so my mrs brought a toyota windom sight unseen.

 

car starts every time but takes 4 seconds or so to actually fire up.doesnt sound long but it is for a car to start. i know the cars been sitting around for a few years with very little use. unsure if that gives anyone a clue

 

shoot

[AllTorque 35,213]

What year windom?

Does it have a diagnosis plug like this in the engine bay?

If so, connect T1 and Te1, then count the flashes of the engine light to check for fault codes. 

 

Have you put fresh fuel in it yet?

[RUNAMUCK 20,075]

Stale gas might be a bit harder to ignite

 

[smokin'joe 2,189]

2 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Stale gas might be a bit harder to ignite

 

and old crud / condensation in fuel filter won't help things.

[8ball 1,281]

Stale fuel.

Fuel filter

Spark plugs

Air filter.

Battery (how old and does it test within spec?)

Lazy/fucked starter.

Bad earth or missing earth straps.

Few things to look at and check.

[tortron 40,996]

I was messing with my ute, and it started doing this

I disconnected the ecu so it would reset and it came right

[mutiny 730]

17 hours ago, AllTorque said:

 

Thanks for the quick replys fellas. Yeah have a new fuel filter to put in will do one night this week. Air filter is mint battery is new. Car cranks over fine just takes a long time to fire

Have done about 200 ks in it so it's had a bunch of new fuel etc 

Unsure on running fault codes will look into it tonight.  

[flyingbrick 7,748]

It's the 3.0 v6 (3vzfe) isn't it?

They are nearly as bad as the 7m at blowing head gaskets. Keep an eye on its water use.

[mutiny 730]

On Sun Mar 12 2017 at 19:05, AllTorque said:

What year windom?

Does it have a diagnosis plug like this in the engine bay?

If so, connect T1 and Te1, then count the flashes of the engine light to check for fault codes. 

 

Have you put fresh fuel in it yet?

Are you sure it's t1 and te1 ? Did that and came up with nothing .  Should I do it in the same plugs as the photo?

 

Put new plugs and a fuel filter in with no results hmm

[AllTorque 35,213]

Shit, sorry. 

Try Te1 and E1

[mutiny 730]

Will give it another try tomorrow.

Once it's running and I turn it off. If I fire it back up straight away it starts mints. What's you guysthoughts on it being fuel pump and is there a way to bench test it 

[8ball 1,281]

Ive seen some cars with a one way type valve that sits near the pressure reg.

They were a rubber diaphragm setup that used to perish. If your car has one it could be this.

One way to test is before starting turn the ignition on for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to "prime" up the pressure etc. Then crank it.

If it then fires straight away you have oneway valve issue in your fuel line.

[mutiny 730]

got an example 8 ball?

 

have heard the same method can diagnose a faulty fuel pump. might just have to take it to a mechanic and get a diagnosis

[8ball 1,281]

I think it was an 80's nissan?? Was many moons ago now.

Most modern cars utilize the pump as you said.

Try what i said.

Click the ignition "on" wait about 4seconds then crank it.

If it fires straight away then it narrows it down to a fuel priming issue.

Your mechanic will probably do this same test anyway. But possibly charge you to do so?

Its quick and easy to do

[mutiny 730]

I was meaning more of a photo or similar . Fuel priming issue still leaves a lot of unknowns 

[mutiny 730]

definatly starts a shit load easier if i hold key on for 4 seconds then start it. so fuel priming issue,. what does that leave me to check and how do i check it?

[fletch 1,608]

The fuel pressure is not holding in the fuel rail when the car is turned off. There will be a check valve between the pump outlet and the fuel rail. Either that is not holding, or the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank is passing.

[8ball 1,281]

Spoke to a guy i worked with and turns out i was kinda wrong. They weren't a factory item just the company that had the fleet of cars had same issue as you in a few cars and fitted aftermarket oneway valves.

Unfortunately whoever chose them used some weird design instead of a normal ball and spring design. (Easily found on ebay)

The rubber diaphragm unit they fitted was as unreliable as a flymesh condom.

But. You could do the same.

But a decent "check valve" or oneway valve and fit it just before the fuel rail.

It could very much fix your issue. 

If not id look at the pressure reg.

Then the injectors. (This would mean its flooding the cylinders or cylinder and requiring you to flush itbout before it fires, but i tending towards oneway valve or pressure reg )

 

[mutiny 730]

so im fuckin amateur at this stuff but had a look today.

fuel filter runs to this

here he is without the cap

and this is at the other end of the fuel rail

and this seems to feed the fuel filter. anyone know what it is? like i say im a complete amateur with fuel injection and all help is appreciated

 

 

 

so yeah what should i be lookin at etc? or is it just easier to put one of these in?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1285851720.htm

[AllTorque 35,213]

Pic 1 is a dampener to reduce pressure fluctuations as the injectors open. 

Pic 2 is fuel pressure regulator. 

Pic 3 is charcole canister. 

Dont just chuck a check valve in. You'll want to confirm what's going on with a fuel pressure gauge. 

Have you checked for codes yet? A dodgee cam position sensor can cause long cranking times.