mutiny Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 so my mrs brought a toyota windom sight unseen. car starts every time but takes 4 seconds or so to actually fire up.doesnt sound long but it is for a car to start. i know the cars been sitting around for a few years with very little use. unsure if that gives anyone a clue shoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 What year windom? Does it have a diagnosis plug like this in the engine bay? If so, connect T1 and Te1, then count the flashes of the engine light to check for fault codes. Have you put fresh fuel in it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Stale gas might be a bit harder to ignite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 2 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said: Stale gas might be a bit harder to ignite and old crud / condensation in fuel filter won't help things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ball Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Stale fuel. Fuel filter Spark plugs Air filter. Battery (how old and does it test within spec?) Lazy/fucked starter. Bad earth or missing earth straps. Few things to look at and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I was messing with my ute, and it started doing this I disconnected the ecu so it would reset and it came right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 17 hours ago, AllTorque said: Thanks for the quick replys fellas. Yeah have a new fuel filter to put in will do one night this week. Air filter is mint battery is new. Car cranks over fine just takes a long time to fire Have done about 200 ks in it so it's had a bunch of new fuel etc Unsure on running fault codes will look into it tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 It's the 3.0 v6 (3vzfe) isn't it? They are nearly as bad as the 7m at blowing head gaskets. Keep an eye on its water use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 On Sun Mar 12 2017 at 19:05, AllTorque said: What year windom? Does it have a diagnosis plug like this in the engine bay? If so, connect T1 and Te1, then count the flashes of the engine light to check for fault codes. Have you put fresh fuel in it yet? Are you sure it's t1 and te1 ? Did that and came up with nothing . Should I do it in the same plugs as the photo? Put new plugs and a fuel filter in with no results hmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Shit, sorry. Try Te1 and E1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Will give it another try tomorrow. Once it's running and I turn it off. If I fire it back up straight away it starts mints. What's you guysthoughts on it being fuel pump and is there a way to bench test it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ball Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Ive seen some cars with a one way type valve that sits near the pressure reg. They were a rubber diaphragm setup that used to perish. If your car has one it could be this. One way to test is before starting turn the ignition on for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to "prime" up the pressure etc. Then crank it. If it then fires straight away you have oneway valve issue in your fuel line. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 got an example 8 ball? have heard the same method can diagnose a faulty fuel pump. might just have to take it to a mechanic and get a diagnosis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ball Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 I think it was an 80's nissan?? Was many moons ago now. Most modern cars utilize the pump as you said. Try what i said. Click the ignition "on" wait about 4seconds then crank it. If it fires straight away then it narrows it down to a fuel priming issue. Your mechanic will probably do this same test anyway. But possibly charge you to do so? Its quick and easy to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 I was meaning more of a photo or similar . Fuel priming issue still leaves a lot of unknowns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 definatly starts a shit load easier if i hold key on for 4 seconds then start it. so fuel priming issue,. what does that leave me to check and how do i check it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The fuel pressure is not holding in the fuel rail when the car is turned off. There will be a check valve between the pump outlet and the fuel rail. Either that is not holding, or the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank is passing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ball Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Spoke to a guy i worked with and turns out i was kinda wrong. They weren't a factory item just the company that had the fleet of cars had same issue as you in a few cars and fitted aftermarket oneway valves. Unfortunately whoever chose them used some weird design instead of a normal ball and spring design. (Easily found on ebay) The rubber diaphragm unit they fitted was as unreliable as a flymesh condom. But. You could do the same. But a decent "check valve" or oneway valve and fit it just before the fuel rail. It could very much fix your issue. If not id look at the pressure reg. Then the injectors. (This would mean its flooding the cylinders or cylinder and requiring you to flush itbout before it fires, but i tending towards oneway valve or pressure reg ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 so im fuckin amateur at this stuff but had a look today. fuel filter runs to this here he is without the cap and this is at the other end of the fuel rail and this seems to feed the fuel filter. anyone know what it is? like i say im a complete amateur with fuel injection and all help is appreciated so yeah what should i be lookin at etc? or is it just easier to put one of these in? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1285851720.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Pic 1 is a dampener to reduce pressure fluctuations as the injectors open. Pic 2 is fuel pressure regulator. Pic 3 is charcole canister. Dont just chuck a check valve in. You'll want to confirm what's going on with a fuel pressure gauge. Have you checked for codes yet? A dodgee cam position sensor can cause long cranking times. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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