AllTorque Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 What is the diff out of? I can try to find set up specs for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 was never driven on while seized. this has all happened out of car. I took it to a diff/automatic shop cause it was leaking out round the nut. he thought the nut was really loose hence causing the leak. so he cranked it down which caused the bearings to seize up on him and him to them assume there was no crush tube. perhaps he just overtorqued it? i have the mark of where to tighten it to for the original "loose" setting but that still has the issue of why the nut was leaking. and now the crush tube has been crushed that extra little bit? its from Kurts aa63 celica but north shore toyota thought that was a T series, so i'd a assume a ga61 celica or ma61 supra. would be very helpful if you can thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 If you haven't driven on it then hopefully the pinion bearing will be OK, providing he didn't tighten it to the point of damaging the bearing cage. (which does take a fair bit of effort - but "cranking it down" sounds very tight to me) In my opinion, crush tubes are one way. Once you go too far, you can't go back - not without compromising durability. Even if you can "straighten" the crush and reuse it, the metal will have a memory and won't take much loading to cause it to crush a little more and the pinion will be loose again. So I would personally order a new crush washer - they are cheap as fuck (maybe $20-25) and set it up according to spec and follow a decent guide for setting up diff preload. Also replace the pinion seal if you think it may have been damaged in the process of pulling the crush washer in and out a few times. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32226-setting-diff-pinion-bearing-preload/ Also remember that bearing pre-load will be measured in INCH pounds not FOOT pounds. So very very light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 yea i inspected the bearings and everything looks A ok, new pinion seal is on my desk as we speak. i was considering getting a solid spacer made up vs a crush tube. new crush tube from toyota was $50, don't have a torque wrench etc so would be easier for me atleast but quite a bit of extra $$? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 You can make the required torque wrench with a piece of alloy strap, a drill, a measuring tape, a bottle of water (of accurately known weight) and a piece of string. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 You can make the required torque wrench with a piece of alloy strap, a drill, a measuring tape, a bottle of water (of accurately known weight) and a piece of string. my god thats oldschool haha, sweet idea though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Check the name of the forum Leonardo. It's not bottlechuckers dot co dot ng Xoxo 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Or even easier http://www.mgexp.com/article/mg-midget-differential-rebuild.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Here is Hilux diff info. toyota-diff-setup When I get a chance I'll look for a paper manual for celica. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Was it leaking from the pinion seal, or around the nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Is this solid diff or IRS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 IRS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 much appreciated thank you <3 Was it leaking from the pinion seal, or around the nut? nut, pinion seal is fine edit: well it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 How soon does a diff go clonkity clunk bang bang if you screw up the pre load? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 much appreciated thank you <3 nut, pinion seal is fine edit: well it was Does/should these have an Oring under the nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 doesn't and no diagram shows that it should. i was all for just jamming some seal on it but that guy overtightening it has made me think its a pretty bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 How soon does a diff go clonkity clunk bang bang if you screw up the pre load? When mine had a horrid amount of end float, AKA no preload. My diff just got super crazy noisy. Inspecting the gearsets while apart and they seemed fine, still are 20,000kms later or whatever. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 A rattle gun and take your time. Do it in little bursts. It actually takes a fare bit to start collapsing the spacer. But once it does start then you need to ease up. I've used a in/lb torque wrench to set pinion bearing preload but after you have done a couple - you can do it by feel. I have found the factory spec for setting pinion bearing preload on a G Series diff to be a little on the light side if anything. I go for a bit more than factory spec. Ya don't get any whine or anything ... it might wear the bearing a minute bit more or something. But have you ever turned a properly set up diff from Strange or Moser or anyone? Even got your paws on one done by an experienced technician in a specialist differential shop. They have some serious drag on them. Its the same deal with 9 Inches too ... rattle gun and take your time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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