crispy86 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 As above i've fitted new diff pinion bearings on the replacement diff in the hilux , i've got new crush tube etc and going to assemble it. The workshop manual states to measure the pinion bearing preload before you put the crush tube in etc. So has anyone got the special tool to measure this or any tricks / easy way to measure this?? I've been searching google and maybe use a 1/4" torque wrench with adaptors but that'd give a false reading wouldn't it? Really want to do it once and do it right so don't destroy the new bearings or crown wheel and pinion teeth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Its a real fuckround to do yourself, You can cheat a bit. Have you undone the pinion yet? mark the pinion nut etc and tighten up to the same position. Put some bearing blue on the crown and see if its making proper contact with the pinion / Dont listen to me I dont really know myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy86 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 Didn't mark the pinion nut like i know i should have, just one of those things where ya just want to get it apart to find out exactly what bits need replacing. Figure i'd be pretty right if i used the workshop manual instructions, but forgot to check the teeth contact areas before i pulled apart too . So if the tooth contact areas aren't quite right i'll have to press the bearing off the pinion and rectify with the appropriate shim, which in itself is a bit of a f&*k round but lucky the person i bought the diff off said it was a good unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 should be able to see where it was done up to where the lock tab has been beaten in. if its only been off once. probably find it'l be out of spec, if you do it up to same place anyway. if you've replaced bearing ive only done lsd installs, so havent messed with pinon stuff before. but can say it sucks if you get contact pattern wrong. this site maybe helpful http://gearinstalls.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 If you have replaced the only the diff bearings bearings then the wear pattern should be right. Double check it when it is all together. You can use spray paint to do it. It's a bit ghetto but it works. If you are really concerned about it dummy assemble the diff with out the colapseable spacer on the pinion, just nip the pinion nut up, put the crown wheel and carrier in and check it. Normaly the preload with the crush tube is set by pulling the pinion flange with a fish scale to measure the drag. Put the whole pinion assembly in and slowly tighten the flange nut untill there is no play in the bearings but not so tight that the rotation of the pinion feels "notchy" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 ^^ agreed.. When I changed to the 3.9 ratio in the starlet/ hilux diff, I just did a backlash feel by hand (not sloppy or notchy) and it seems to do the trick. (Quieter than that the other 4.3 ratio was) maybe I was just lucky.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I'd use locktite on the nut too. I replaced the pinion seal on an AP6 valiant once and despite doing up the nut FT (and I really mean FUCKING TIGHT!) it came undone. Fortunately it was after I'd sold the car. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy86 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 Perhaps i need to play with one of my other diff heads to get the idea. Looking on youtube after searching for this exact thing someone used a dial type torque wrench to see the drag. How would i easily do it using fish scales?? Someone suggested wrap string round the flange and pull the fish scales but how would you know what is the right measurement?? In this case ideally turning torque has to be 1.9-2.5 Nm of torque with new bearings. And yes only the pinion bearings have been replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Yeah most work shop manuals say wrap string around it etc etc. Don't worry to much. most of the drag is the seal anyway. Just very slowly nip the pinion nut up and check it by hand. It's not to different to a front wheel bearing on your ute. Try dummy assembling it with out the seal and crush tube in it, set the bearing so it's tight but not notchy, mark the position of the nut on the pinion, take it apart assemble it finaly and adjust the nut untill your marks line up again. Think of it like adjusting a wheel bearing. It needs to be tight but not to tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Just be aware that for the crush tube to begin to crush takes a lot of pressure but once it has started deforming it crushes down much easier. FWIW - The best tool I have used was a piece of 10mm x 25mm strap - had 2 holes drilled in the end to bolt to the pinion flange and one hole in the other end (12" away from the centre of the 2 holes on the other end) to hang a weight. Use this to set the preload.. for example - if it says it is 36 in lbs as the preload then you hang a 3lb weight of the single hole. blah blah blah I've kinda got distracted with too much detail - if you want to make one of these tools hit me up and I'll give you more detail/draw a schematic.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy86 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Ok so i've just had time to start doing the diff tonight, Checking the tooth contact areas before i go further. I've nipped the pinion nut up by hand to check it, got the nut in the right spot. My question now is what's the best way to mark the teeth to check the contact area? One way is to use perusian blue (i guess engineer's blue??), read somewhere on googling it to use poster paint but how would it be best to do this, just paint it on the crownwheel like it says in 3 different spots, and wait till the paint dries then run the crownwheel back and forth past the pinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Just use it with the paint wet. It's a wiping action between the teeth so it will wipe the wet paint away more easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy86 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 But you only get one chance right? Then the paint goes on all the crownwheel teeth and you get nowhere. Well i did after trying it wet. Using art and poster paint So not sure if you get one shot and do you need to hold the pinion flange as much as possible so it gives more resistance and more of a wiping motion on the crownwheel teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj04006.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy86 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Anyone setup hilux diffs without needing to replace pinion shims and what contact patterns that are acceptable, just have read contradicting info on this for best pattern. Ideally central pattern on the drive and coast sides I've read seems to be the concensus for perfect conditions, but I've got pattern on inside on drive side and central to edge on cost side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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