crispy86

Can definitely take the sender unit out of the tank while it's still in the car, piece of cake to do as long as you're careful and don't bend it. Testing it requires a multimeter with it unplugged or even still connected. Either way i can advise you of how to go about it. Also my car will be undertaking track duties so i don't really cars about how low it sits

And then sell me the TRD springs once you find some reasonable springs As Rob said you'll need short shocks to keep the springs captive as the springs really control the ride height. I tried the same thing with my race car (although it was an ae82) still has same result. The springs control the ride height, and because i was a tight arse using custom springs which made the rear of the car sit about right it killed the TRD adjustable shocks in no time

I've struck this before on a subbie, same fault too!! Have you checked the earth on the fuel pump in the multi plug?? You say the fuel pump works which you'd have checked out of the tank? So no power at the plug to the pump and the relay? I'd be checking you're getting 5v feed from the computer to htings like the AFM and earth side of the fuel pump multi plug to be on the safe side. Then all plugs on the relays and the e.c.u for corrosion

Keen so long as i've got the cash fre for both our holdens, be interested howm uch difference there is powerwise between the two of them

Anyone setup hilux diffs without needing to replace pinion shims and what contact patterns that are acceptable, just have read contradicting info on this for best pattern. Ideally central pattern on the drive and coast sides I've read seems to be the concensus for perfect conditions, but I've got pattern on inside on drive side and central to edge on cost side

But you only get one chance right? Then the paint goes on all the crownwheel teeth and you get nowhere. Well i did after trying it wet. Using art and poster paint So not sure if you get one shot and do you need to hold the pinion flange as much as possible so it gives more resistance and more of a wiping motion on the crownwheel teeth?

Ok so i've just had time to start doing the diff tonight, Checking the tooth contact areas before i go further. I've nipped the pinion nut up by hand to check it, got the nut in the right spot. My question now is what's the best way to mark the teeth to check the contact area? One way is to use perusian blue (i guess engineer's blue??), read somewhere on googling it to use poster paint but how would it be best to do this, just paint it on the crownwheel like it says in 3 different spots, and wait till the paint dries then run the crownwheel back and forth past the pinion?

Perhaps i need to play with one of my other diff heads to get the idea. Looking on youtube after searching for this exact thing someone used a dial type torque wrench to see the drag. How would i easily do it using fish scales?? Someone suggested wrap string round the flange and pull the fish scales but how would you know what is the right measurement?? In this case ideally turning torque has to be 1.9-2.5 Nm of torque with new bearings. And yes only the pinion bearings have been replaced.

Didn't mark the pinion nut like i know i should have, just one of those things where ya just want to get it apart to find out exactly what bits need replacing. Figure i'd be pretty right if i used the workshop manual instructions, but forgot to check the teeth contact areas before i pulled apart too . So if the tooth contact areas aren't quite right i'll have to press the bearing off the pinion and rectify with the appropriate shim, which in itself is a bit of a f&*k round but lucky the person i bought the diff off said it was a good unit.

As above i've fitted new diff pinion bearings on the replacement diff in the hilux , i've got new crush tube etc and going to assemble it. The workshop manual states to measure the pinion bearing preload before you put the crush tube in etc. So has anyone got the special tool to measure this or any tricks / easy way to measure this?? I've been searching google and maybe use a 1/4" torque wrench with adaptors but that'd give a false reading wouldn't it? Really want to do it once and do it right so don't destroy the new bearings or crown wheel and pinion teeth

I've used a product that has granules in it works well for this. Bought it from mitre10 years ago. It works with little bit of water and scrub it into concrete leave it for 10 minutes and hose off. I've found 15 minutes works well then hose off, i'll have a look for the name of it tomorow, it's in the garage

If it's the same one you asked about my aa60 carina crossmember has the large mount on one side, it uses a spacer bracket under that side for the manual steer. How do i know....i just finished pulling the mount brackets off mine to get ready for scrap run. If you need that and think it'll be suitable best get hold of me asap by pm

Pretty confident it was an nz new 1600, definitely pulled alot better with the new engine in it. We're talking a few years ago now so may have got my wires crossed. Just struggling to think what i'd done if it was a straight bolt in or if i did change the mounts and bolted up.

"Fuel" - Sorry yeah talking baout the EX lancer suqare ahape as mine was an 82 model, was straight bolt up for the 1600

That's funy, when i bought a 1600 engine for my 1200cc's of pure fury lancer years ago it was just a straight drop onto the crossmember. Do the 1600's use different mounts between the models?? At that stage it didn't appear that way and was straight bolt in and play. also used a 5 speed celeste gearbox

Yeah definitely a decent set, pity i hadn't seen this sooner as i could have offered my set to you

I'm keen, have been thinking of doing this on both my cars but they're not oldschool by any stretch . being both are '92 commonwhores

That's definitely a tidy job done to the engine conversion and the car looks sharp. The rims don't look too bad on it, you could've chosen alot worse set of rims imo.

Wheels aren't all that bad on it, just would look good with some dish in them. You not going to keep them on?? Good project though what are the plans for it?

It could be gummed up in the throttle body itself, maybe the t.p.s could be at fault also. Have you checked the values of the t.p.s with mulitmeter? Like it idles fine if you start it but don't drive anywhere??? Also maybe clogged fuel filter?? I'd suggest checking the basic stuff first like fuel delivery, spark etc ect

Looking really tidy!!! Classic car insurance is prob a good idea, might look into it when i get my car up and running