Ned Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 oh, and if key on for some reason isnt powered during start (seems odd to me, but who knows) then do this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Maybe you could have a relay triggered by the alternator charge light, so turns the sensor off when the light is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 That could work, but you cant actually use the charge light, as the charge light itself is part of the alternator circuit, so you dont really wanna go feed a relay from that im guessing...? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Even easier is to use an oil pressure switch to switch relay on. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Oh yeah! Good thinking  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Yeah, thats actually much gooder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Good ideas guys! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Roman, how long were your sensors lasting before they pooed out? I have a wideband on my carby setup and when cold I prime the carbs for a couple seconds before starting, the sensor comes on at the same time. Have done about 5000 k's so far before I removed it so may have been lucky, I should modify how it comes on before I put it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Some of them only lasted about a week or two!  Then others only a month or two.  It was an expensive process haha.  I think it was mainly because I was sitting there for so long, tootling on the laptop before starting the car.  From looking at the GUI for the controller the sensor takes maybe 15-20 seconds to fully warm up if the engine is off. So I think it's only bad if you're sitting there for a few minutes each time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Ah yep, come to think of it I do normally have it started before it has finished its heating and starts displaying readings. I might put an oil pressure switch in there anyway as I have one that closes the circuit when there is pressure and a tee spare 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1Daniel Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 My fuel pump us wired so it needs oil pressure so I'll run it off that circuit. You can also get smart relays that know when the cars running. They come in day running light kits it picks up the extra voltage. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Suppose it's not too far OT. Specific heat is the amount of heat energy require to raise the temperature of a mass by 1C. I was just kind of trying to illustrate, in a round about way, that it's not the temperature so much as the amount of heat energy being created. If it was just down to temperature then everything would melt as soon as the sparkplug went off At cruise you're not creating large amounts of heat energy because you don't need to, as you are cruising. If you went WOT at the same AFR then you're creating a lot of heat energy @ a high temp (which means it transfers into the mass faster due to temp gradient) beyond the ability of the coolant system to transfer the heat away. So both power (see above graphs) and temperature is why AFRs get lower under increased load.  A car may like 14.7 at cruise due to gearing/spark/head design/octane/induction/air density/million things more than a leaner burn. Probably not so much modern engines with their targeted afr design parameters and their precious metal mine in the exhaust  I'm pretty sure you know all this and it was just my obscure way of putting things  Ok sweet, that is what you were talking about. My point being that, as per your second link, 14.7 afr produces the most heat no matter what the load, so yes while it probably isn't as much specific heat as wot, it is still heating things up unneccessarily. So basically, more heat and more fuel consumption for no gain, I know this doesn't apply to every engine combo, but for most it will hold true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I've noticed lately that when starting the car the LC-2 wideband gauge reads 7.8 till its heated up but it use to read 7.5. AFR's seem pretty normal though. Â Does this sound right and is just due to the cold weather or is it a sign I need to re-calibrate the sensor (been a good 9-12 months since last calibration). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 it should read /flash the offscale low number until it's ready to rumble (well at least mine does) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Yup it does that but I thought it's weird that number has changed from showing 7.5 to sometimes showing 7.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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