Chassis preperation and painting

[R100]

Can anyone recommend a suitable paint to paint a chassis.

I have recently purchased a truck and have removed the deck and cab.

Im after a satin black finish paint that will stick and look reasonable good without too much prep work.

 

I want to basically spray everything black minus the engine/gearbox, wheels and exhaust .

 

Was hoping to just give everything a real good water blast to remove any grease, dirt etc.

 

Once panted ill put the deck and cab back on and hopefully get a new COF.

 

Ideas please.

 

 

[KKtrips]

PPG GMH Flat Black.  599-48355
 
I understand this is the paint they put on the underside of all the factory cars.
 
 
 

[nzstato]

Black POR15, put it on with a brush and it comes up satin/gloss.  It 'dries' via reaction with moisture so consider everything it touches (i.e. paint brush) a consumable.

[KKtrips]

Problem with POR15 etc is unless the surface is properly keyed then it can peel off in big strips.  It does not stick well to flat metal very well.

 

Plus to paint a truck chassis would cost a few hundred with the price of POR15 at $120 odd a litre.

[Spencer]

I would go for proper prep and epoxy primer topped with 2K urethane. If you are going to just water-blast and paint try using some kind of underseal type product, I don't have much experience but they usually have good adhesion.

 

Basically the quality of the end result will be directly proportional to how much prep you do. 

[governorsam]

have used rustoleum 2x primer/paint . Covers well, seems to last.

[flyingbrick]

What about the subframe Black enamel sold at SCA etc? Is it so soft its just not worth considering?

Also, is there any problem with painting black epoxy primer straight onto bare metal and then leaving without topcoat? Just thinking of engine bay/firewall

[Spencer]

It doesn't have the hardness and durability of urethane 2k (or moisture cured). Nothing really competes with 2 pac urethane paint for gloss combined with durability, flexibility and chemical resistance. Compared to enamel and laquer it will last pretty much forever if you prep it right and clean it.

[R100]

My truck chassis is reasonably tidy, just very greasy and dirty. It has a few surface rust areas that are structurally very sound but will make the COF inspector frown.

There is no bare metal any where. The areas that are starting to rust I will just wire brush and put a dap of PA10 primer (have a 1 litre tin of it already).

[flyingbrick]

Thanks Spence.

One last q. Can you paint 2k paints over any other type of paint? Not that keen to bare metal unless I have to

[Spencer]

Epoxy primer will go over almost anything without reaction.

[nickrock]

Etch primer then wet on wet enamel I think 4l of automotive black enamel cost me less than one hundred

Wet on wet means let the primer tack off touch dry then put the top coat on means no sanding required between coats

[RUNAMUCK]

CRC black zinc.

 

I don't know if they make it in 4ltr tins or not. It's not flash, but It's rough enough for a part that wont be seen.

[scanner]

Lechler 29107 Epoxy Primer - good stuff!!

[sr2]

My favorite for finishing chassis, mechanical components, etc. is a light spray with CRC Rust converter ($11-99 per can from BNT) followed by a brushed coat of Wattyl Killrust etch primer (similar to PA10 but much cheaper). This combination is a fraction of the price of Pour10, doesn't peel off from smooth surfaces and does a great job of controlling corrosion.

 

I then finish off with one or two brushed coats of marine enamel, current favorite being Hempel Marine topcoat, very similar to Epiglass Marinecoat but at half the cost!