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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


chris r

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Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix. 

I've run a wire from the cluster to the ecu (and de pinned the adaptor harness) to check if the speedo corrector is being a dick to the incoming signal. Quick spin around the block and it's working but it usually does 

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Temp fix seems to have worked so far. Still need to scope it so I know for sure what's going on. 

Did some maintenance the other day. Replaced the main engine mount, took a gable that b series ek was the same and it was

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Had a annoying squeak which I suspected was shock top hat bushings or the swaybar bushes 

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Was def the shock bish as you can see how squashed it is bottom right. I just replaced the top as I don't have the time to pull the strut out. It's massively reduced the squeak so good enough for now 

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Got to have a nice pedal feel for stop go traffic 

They'll never be seen but may as well have something else for wof people to laugh at along with the teddies 

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The rear lines are similar to the shuttle and are super short so not much benefit from changing to braided on the rear. 

I've had a random flat spot/surging start. 

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Yuup that'll do it. Clearly I had forgotten to tighten the throttle body when I put it on. Whoops

My temporary speedo wire seems to have fixed the issue, every time I have checked its been working well. 

I still want to scope the signal to see what it's doing so I can confirm 100% it was the issue 

I've had a play around with my various rear swaybar selection. The crv and various civic ones won't clear the diff. I've found a random rear bar I grabbed from zebra a while ago which looks most promising 

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Installed the lines today

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The air con hasn't been the best since I've owned the car and the compressor has been making noises. finally chucked the gauges on it to check. Yip compressor works until pressure switch kills things as high side is too high 

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The fans weren't coming on when the compressor was engaged. 

I didn't want to pull everything apart to test /trace wiring so barried up a fix. Chucked a diode between the ac relay and the condenser fan relay so fans come on when ac compressor is engaged but ac doesn't get engaged when the rad fan switches on

Diode and wires 

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Heat shrunk and soldered to relays 

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Back in fuse box 

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And that's looking more reasonable 

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Got some b16 cams and cam gears from the tuner for a good price 

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I've ordered d the woodruff keys and will need to find some time to swap them over then can go for a tune and hopefully get some more killer wasps/atleast fill in the midrange dip 

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5 minutes ago, chris r said:

Got some b16 cams and cam gears from the tuner for a good price 

aIuSUDh.jpg

I've ordered d the woodruff keys and will need to find some time to swap them over then can go for a tune and hopefully get some more killer wasps/atleast fill in the midrange dip 

Whats the specs compared to the b20?

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1 hour ago, shrike said:

Whats the specs compared to the b20?

Currently has the b18c cams that came with the head. My tuner has done a heap of b20 vtec builds and said the b16 cams have a bit more power/midrange and they pick up power with intake cam advanced a bit 

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  • 1 month later...

I'm guessing the same thing re the cams. 

I bumped into another orthia foamer at pick a part who had some rare parts so I grabbed them off him

The type s/highest trim spec had fake carbon trim on dash with blue instruments and window switches etc so I grabbed them and a rear cargo boot net thing. 

I'd grabbed this steering shroud from pap a while ago and finally installed it along with the carbon cluster trim 

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Cleaned the shifer boot surround and replaced the black/rusty fasteners with stainless 

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Fitted the blue tach and speedo (I didn't get the odo lined up perfect so it'll have to come out again at some point for another attempt) unfortunately it's a auto only option so the black manual fuel and temp is staying. It slightly hurts my ocd but can't do anything about it 

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The new rock auto engine mounts were a bit soft/the engine was moving just enough to be annoying. I don't want to splash out on after market mounts that'd make everything vibrate annoyingly so barried some urethane in the rear mount. 

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It's been a couple of weeks and it's not vibraty and annoyingly moving so that's a win. 

 

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My mk2 exhaust fix was good but there was a annoying rattle in reverse which I thought was a diff or something. 

It did end up being diff related but not seriously. 

The snout of the diff was moving down in reverse and hitting the exhaust. 

Can kinda see how close it is here 

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I was under the car doing some other stuff and could easily move the diff enough to hit the exhaust by hand. So original mounts were pretty soft. 

Since the mount worked so well barry me decided to try do the same with the diff mounts.

Put the jack under the diff and raised it up. Took the washers off and cleaned the mounts as best I could in place 

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Filled them with schmoo 

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Let it sit overnight supported by the jack. 

Much higher and it doesn't move by hand anymore 

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It's been a couple of days and no more rattles so far so let's hope it's fixed 

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I needed to order some woodruff keys for the cams and ordered new drum adjusters at the same time as I'm sick of re adjusting them/the old ones were worn and a bit stripped 

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Will install them at some point and hope I don't have to touch them for a long time now 

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  • 1 month later...

Other side done 

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Thought I'd change the fuel filter but the one from rock auto leaked. 

I thought I was going mad/more mental when I was checking the oil and the dipstick was in different positions. 

The tube was loose and came out

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Have it a degrease and slapped some black rtv. 

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Back in the hole and hopefully it stays there now 

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  • 3 weeks later...

One of the springs in the left hand drum fucked out and it was locking up in reverse. Got the shits with them and started re looking into disc conversions again. 

Found a old forum post that someone drew up/3d printed a bracket. Send the file to my mate who printed it

Attacked one of my spare trailing arms and got the wheel bearing/backing plate out and test fitted it

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For some reason I hoarded everything except the rear discs off the integra I parted out. Caliper almost fits 

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But parking brake mechanism hanging off the back hits the trailing arm 

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Looks like people in the states butcher the arm a bunch to get it to actually fit. So I went to pick a part and grabbed a spring to replace the stretched/damaged one

 

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  • 1 month later...

So replacement spring has done the job and no issues so far. 

Popped into pick a part and grabbed the tank out of the shuttle there to replace my rusted one. Figure no rust + a soldered hole is better than Fucking around with a rusty tank. 

Also grabbed the d swries/shuttle output flange from the transfer case a quick rough measurement suggests the shuttle driveshaft might fit the orthia but I'll need to change the flange to suit 

Swapping to the shuttle diff shoul get more clearance with exhaust and hopefully stop the rattles 

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Been working night shifts so haven't had much daylight to do stuff. 

I haven't been awake when the weather has been good enough to paint to no clear coat

Got a few mins today. 

Found some nuts and bolts in my box of bolts, drilled and tapped the strut towers 

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And brace is fitted 

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Paint isn't perfectly smooth and you can see a few sanding marks but it's good enough and will get scratched etc etc in time so I'm not too worried. 

Also found a cheap factory dual runner intake manifold to play with for another experiment. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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