Spencer Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Na they don't need head work, the heads and valve train is what essentially makes these things so sweet. Yes you need a tune, you can run a K-pro (hondata) which works with the stock ECU if you wish, think they were around $600. Yea the vtec on the lower spec K motors is cam phasing and intake only extra lift, the vtec is aimed for economy and promoting swirl and shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 mmhhmm, so you've still got a fair few grand on top of purchase to hit that 250whp mark huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Here is the HP register for K20a http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34644&page=28 Some highlights. SET-UP #246Stock K24a2 (TSX) bottom, stock K24a1 head,2004 TSX Ex cam,CTR In cam,RBC IM,R-Crew V1,Thermal 3" exhaust.Power 246, torque 191By TheMidasTouch SET-UP #250Stock k24a2 (Type S) with a 45 VTCStock CamsIntake 2004 Accord with Type S TBR Crew Header3 inch exhaust, 3 inch truck Cat , Magnaflow MufflerDyno: DynapackPower 250 HP @ 7000rpm, torque 200 Ft-lbs @ 5000rpmBy Choo SET-UP #234Stock K24a2 (TSX) bottom endStock K24a1 (CRV) headSkunk2 Stage3 camsRCrew HeaderRBCPower 262, torque 198By TheMidasTouch SET-UP #272K24 IPS block k20 head12.5-1 C.R. pistons cunningham rodsOversized supertech intake and exhaustIPS KME 8620 camsKpro tunedRBC intakeRC 550sSSR coated 4-2-1 headerPower 272 @ 7800, torque 220 @ 5500 SET-UP #281K24a2 (TSX)Stock head with Supertech valves and valvetrainCP 12.5:1 C.R. 87.5mm bore pistonsIPS K10 camsIB rodsTWM 52mm ITB'sSSR headerPower 281, torque 197 SET-UP #339K24a1 (CRV) / K20a2 (Type S) Head + portingK20a2 type s pumpWiseco 87.5mm bore 13.7:1 C.R.IB rodsBlueprint Racing Camshaft Stage 3 K Series i-VTECBlueprint Racing Valve SpringsBlueprint Racing Valves +0.5mmBlueprint Racing Titanium RetainersOEM crankRBC + portingBDL 70mm Throttle BodySSR/DTR + MegafonPower 339, torque 228 with E85By Honda@racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 mmhhmm, so you've still got a fair few grand on top of purchase to hit that 250whp mark huh? Yes, you have to spend money to make power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Closer to 1500 for a kpro. Friend of mine has just completed a K20A swap using a KPro. If you're not handy tuning one there is a huge cost involved in tuning, 8 different maps from memory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yea the stock ECU's are insanely in-depth, for simplicity personally I'd get a plug and play AEM or similar, use an existing map for cam phasing and road tune it. Then go spend the beans and dial in the cam phasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Everyone on OS knows the best bang for buck non turbo 4 cylinder is 13b turbo, closely followed by barra turbo, with ls in 3rd. moral of the story Why stick with big hp na when a plus t will be better at everything? /offtopic Max hp na is like retard Olympics just look at my ~100hp mini which i probably dumped over 3 grand of head work into. (Cool head though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 It's just cooler tbh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yea go watch 90's super tourers and revaluate your life. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I did mention its cool but its exponentially more costly for minimal gains once you have done the simple shit. 5+4 = 9 but so does 6+3. How does the mid 300hp 2.4 litre na drive on the street? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Wheel spin every gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 But in terms of dollar spent:coolness ratio NA wins by the proverbial country mile or 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Looks as though there's a W5* gearbox bellhousing adaptor available from Convert Motorsports... Or at least will be soon? Excuse the ignorance but don't Honda engines run counterclockwise so you will need to do some pretty extensive mods to run a clockwise type gearbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Legit question, do K series motors spin the same way as the S2000000 spec ones/how do you go about RWD'in them? They spin clockwise as does the f20, so normal way. Never mind - I just read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 I guess the conclusion of this thread so far seems to be... A K24/20A isnt cost effective in RWD unless you're planning a big dollar big power build which is where the motor excels well past the other 4 cyl NA options.A standard engine doesnt look to be worth the trouble/$$$ unfortunately, if that's the level of build you can afford. Lucky for those FWD guys though where one of these plonks in nicely! Always looks awesome having ITBs out the front of the motor rather than the back as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB8-TypeR Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 322whp K24 been in NZ since ages ago. Invercargill based even, built around 2008. EK Civic. Did flat 11s from memory. As a Honda kid I was fizzing the first time I saw it in the met This one here even: http://nzhondas.com/build-threads/79066-deep-south-ek-k-build.html Pics are dead but heres a vid, car was sold then threw a rod out the block, has since been turned into a Honda Cup car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I'd completely forgotten the backwards spin issue that prevents most honda motors going rwd. Doh! Without a doubt the most impressive na build iv seen was Acesnipers (Waikato guys will know him) ae101 with blacktop 20v. Holy crap that thing was wild. No idea if its still alive? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 So did some more reading of my old bookmarks from when I had a K24 and was going to do some things and gave up. But if you are going for a stock K24 there's a few things that can make it cheaper, if you get the right ECU you can use the stocker to get you going. Also if you do a tweak the F20c factory headers they work and just cut and shut a alloy intake. Gearbox wise for off the shelf shit you are looking at 2K for a box, Flywheel, adapter and clutch. So If you get a decent base engine for the right price that has a ECU and all bolt ons (lots of crashed accords out there) then drop the major coin on the box, shits not so bad $$ wise for a starting point. Stock K24a will pop out 120kw at the wheels or more with a fat mid range and epic economy in a light car. Just has to fit which is probably the tricky part for a lot of cars. Then when you win lotto drop 5K on it and go dort. Someone on here has to run one on magnesium kinslers haha Anyway Roman yes they are not some magic bullet for cheap rwd power. But if you are keen to spend a little more then you get one of the best 4 bangers ever made with all of the aftermarket support. Oh and I still am an advocate of fitting whatever kind motor gives you a boner, if you like blue smoke mitis, kents or whatever do that instead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 they are not some magic bullet for cheap rwd power. But this is what you guys have been pushing them as for the last while? This thread has been very enlightening though and I'm pleased it's gone as well as it has. I've learnt a lot today. Very keen to see someone chuck one in something now. I think Roman summed it up quite well. If you're down for cheap big power on a budget then they're no better option than anything else out there (N/A) but if you're willing to spend some decent pinga to get a good atmo engine then they're second to none/don't spend a million bucks on something that'll always be in the shadow of a tweaked K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB8-TypeR Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 JTune in Auckland has done a lot of work with K24, just bolt ons and tuning this is one of their examples: Been trying to find some old dyno sheetsOn a Stock k24 with intake and exhaust and no tuning can make 140kw at the wheelsStock ExtractorOrignal Throttle BoddyNo TuningHeavy FlywheelAnother Customer CL9 withIntakeExtractorExhaustStill the small Throttle body and factory intake manifoldAnd Hondata TuneIt made over 160kw at peak of 6800 rpmJust the lack of Cam Timing, restriction on the intake and smaller cams we couldnt get more power out of it, but... there is still alot of torqueThe ammout of torque it puts out is more then a Stock Nsx with a 3.0 EngineIf you been in a ride in a NSX or a K24 Dc5/Ep3 the pull is similar to a 220wkw Evo at 1.5BarThese engine makes 200hp FactoryBut tuning and right parts combo, is nearly 100hp gain without doing much to the internal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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