Testament Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 LS all of the things 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Honda K series... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 2ZZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Sweetness folks, cutting is no issue for me.  1. 60psi or there abouts, with a returnless fuel line. So you need an aftermarket FPR. 2. From factory they have a dual mass flywheel which is a big heavy shitsack (15+kg) but light aftermarket options available. 3. It's a tall and wide engine with a gearbox that doesnt fit the tunnel. So pretty much everything's a problem, for a starlet. A 4age/T50 will be about 5% of the ballache to get fitted and running. Beams starlet has been done before, I think there's a project on here or toyspeed. But not something I'd want to do! 4. Not sure. Sweet, that gives me something to aim for then The flywheel will give me something to change later at least and should help liven it up a bit. I have no problem giving it a nip and tuck and I will trade a bit of extra weight and height for 200hp + 6-speed compared to extracting that much from a 4a or 4k. It has already had some mods as it was running a 12a at Ashburton Street meet which is my aim to have it ready for next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 You should put a Honda K series in it hand have 300 hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 300hp stock?  I chose the Beams engine for several reasons, one being over 200hp stock N/A as I didn't want the additional heat of a turbo while sorting it out, the other was a 6 speed box, the cost was a factor at around $2k for both box and motor and the weight another. I figured that 209hp with this in a Starlet should equal to a shit load of fun, I am not about what I should put in it but about what I am going to put in it and the fact it was a Toyota in a Toyota also seemed good.  Thanks though for all the suggestions and thanks for the link to the previous project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 K24s are certainly impressive. Â http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71489 Â They are the only motor I would look at if I was in the market for a na 4 banger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 K24s are certainly impressive. Â http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71489 Â They are the only motor I would look at if I was in the market for a na 4 banger. It may suit you but it's not my idea and as for hp these Beams and countless other engines could be tuned way past that but again the idea of what I wanted is 200hp+ with 6 speed and RWD for $2k and just fit it and wire it, un-stressed and reliable running while i have do handling not spending my time building an engine. Â Well thats the plan, leave the other stuff to young guys who have fat wallets or charge it up for kicks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 K24s are certainly impressive. Â http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71489 Â They are the only motor I would look at if I was in the market for a na 4 banger. Lol so the only option you'd ever consider, is the horrifically expensive one? K series are great but Honda tax makes my wallet cry. Then that x100 if wanting to RWD one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 How is $1350 for a complete motor with ecu horrifically expensive? to convert to RWD is as easy as a J160 and an adaptor plate, so for a bit of work and around $2k you end up with the best production 4 cylinder engine ever made. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Oh, is that all a K24 costs these days? Cool.  Either option costs a shit tonne more than $2k though... You need dry sump to have any chance of fitting a K24 in a starlet. Custom manifolds etc.$10k minimum in bits I'd say. Guy Lance in Oamaru is doing one, will be awesome when it's going. Spendy project though. Converted it to left hook partially because the exhaust runs down other side of the engine. and makes the steering column a pain. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Yea, you can ring up Strongs right now and buy a k24 out of a crv for that much, super legit. Â You need to fit a dry sump to any track car, so that is hardly a consideration in terms of engine choice. Â And yes the Initial buy in is the cheapest part of building a car, we all know that. Â And the reason why I would only use a Honda is because you try getting 275hp out of a beams, I bet it takes a bit more than a ported head, cams, and manifolds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Go back to playing with your Kent Rookie and come back when you have purchased said K series and made it work for his budget. Â K thanks bai. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 back the truck up beave  on this occasion he is talking sense, those honda motors really are actually "that good" its going to be less stressed to do whatever output you want, probably newer? has better aftermarket support and more scope for upgrades. initial cost difference to beams is minor. and like he said if its a proper circuit car you should be dry sumping really.  if its a circuit car and you dont need a dry sump you aren't cornering hard enough surely? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 That's not the point. He has already decided on a beams engine, and going by the fact he posted a picture of one, I would think that means he has purchased said engine. Therefore ranting on about how a different engine is a better option isn't very helpful is it? Â Must be something in the Taupo water. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 It's sunny and crisp so keeps you open minded, not windy and wet and locked indoors? Â Â ok then tips. Â do get a dry sump do get slicks do spend $$$$ on shocks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Nah doors not locked, free to get wet and whipped at my will. Â Much better advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Also spend money on a good datalogger, you will never know what you are doing if you don't. Â http://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturepro/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Also lock the diff, or the diff you are planning on using, simply the most cost effective way of getting good traction, and with a bit of reading/thinking you can engineer any bad handling traits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 But firstly decide what class you want to race in and read the rules, because having to redo things is dumb. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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