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KPR's 84 chromelux discussion


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Did send oldmate an update after done a bit of work to the truck, seemed stoked i was fixing it up.  Unsure how he would feel now i've cut it up and put all the dents back in it

 

Hopefully wont have to bother disconnecting and run with it on all the time.   but worst case its only  quick zing with the rattle gun to remove a link to disable the bar.   so far its looking good to run it all the time.  ran out of argon to finish welding it. so no test run yet.  but  jacking it up it still flexes fine.  and since the rear spring rate is only half the front. seems to evened out front to rear flex.   actually levels itself out now. before could jump on one side of the truck and it would stay sitting on the piss

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yep kinda only place the bar can go,  because some diddle put a fuel tank in the way.  so yeah the tie rods have to be that long.  but it also means they are working on less angle  when suspension gets towards end of its travel

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On 4/24/2018 at 19:09, kpr said:

Yeah it shutdown to everyone.  pity as it was literally 2mins down the road.   starting to get hard to find places to go up here now. 

 

That's a bit rough, looked like a sweet place.

Department of Closing things love ruining fun for 4x4 owners, unless you're a hunter then that's ok.

You're welcome in the central north anytime, Pureora forest has a few gnarly tracks (Testament and i got real stuck and slept the night in his jeep), and even a play area that king country club looks after.

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Rad that yer thinking of getting it legal, is that so you can drive it down to meremere?

Re handling, is it much worse than average lifted leaf spring truck? I know any evasive maneuver in my 60-series was pretty much 5 second delay before it moved and then another 5 seconds before the body caught up. Like driving a 3 ton bobble headed doll. 

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cant say i've actually been in anything like that, so don't have much to compare it to.  but sounds about right.    the main issue was it getting upset mid corner. can deal with the body roll long as it isn't crazy,  which it was borderline without the swaybar

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The dual spring thing is really interesting! I can only imagine how bobbly it must be when transitioning from soft to hard multiple times in a row :D

I've been reading a bit about dual spring setups in racecars lately and it's pretty confusing. Most racecars use the secondary spring to push the wheel down while unloaded to get a bit of extra traction, but the low rate spring will usually be fully compressed under the weight of the car. 

Also bump vs rebound damping and digressive pistons for variable high/low speed damping... Man it's interesting but pretty hard to get your head around! 

I like what you're doing though, it will be awesome if you get it to handle OK on the road. 

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The offroad stuff is a bit of a steep learning curve coming from  car stuff.   biggest thing that got me to start with, was springs rates are way lower than you would expect. i wasted a lot of money as was scared of going too soft.
 Basically the primary rate (both springs combine)  needs to be soft enough to get the vehicle down to ride high with at least an inch of preload.  which in my case is 6inches of droop.  the preload needs to be there to push the shock out to full extension when doing jumps etc.  kinda similar to what your staying about the race car stuff.  guessing they are using the dual rate to do similar,  since preload on a high rate single spring  will make droop near non existent

Seems to be a lot of different theories on how to setup the dual rate change over.  seems none of the "suspension tuners"  like to give out there secrets, especially when it comes to shock valving.

Other than the few things above, springs are just there to hold the thing up,  valving is everything on offroad stuff.     shocks need to have fairly low rebound dampening so wheels drop out fast enough, so have max travel to soak up the landing. but too little is also all bad.    the compression valving  needs to be stiff enough to soak up the big stuff,  while using most of the travel to do it  and also not ride rough as shit over the small stuff.   They are progressive shocks and can tune the low to high speed dampening  to a point,  by the way and thickness  the valving shims are stacked.     gives most people shits the first time you blast through the paddock at 80k's, after doing a few laps at 10-20k, as it actually rides fairly rough at low speed.

 

now try make all that work on the road as well..

 

 

 

 

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I am a little confused as to what it's doing, is it bodyrolling and not going back to level? 

I'm going to assume you know that if you made the arms from the torsion bar to the link rods shorter, then the sway bar would be stiffer. 

Why not just a normal sway bar with releases?

I did this on the pajero where the sway bar ends could slide up and down the link rods keeping it from flopping about, but insert a couple pins in the rods and it would be back to a normal sway bar.

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