escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Ok so heres a small novel of my dramas.... 355 chev 600 slayer carb 10:1 comp Comp Cams Camshaft ,Intake lift .507 Duration 284,Exhaust Lift .510 Duration 296,Double Roller Timing Chain Anti Pump-up Lifters alloy heads big valves etc heaps of other crap done fresh crate motor 2500 stall (can give full spec list if it helps) CAR WAS RUNNING MINT - drove round auckland about 100kms after cert and all was well - skids it likes, high RPM it like - drove up north 350kms and never missed a beat, never had to tap gas to start it etc. - parked car for 3 days in a shed **** - returned to start the car like normal was fine for 10 seconds then lost idle and started puffing black smoke and running on what sounded like no more than 7 WTF - half pulled carb down (which is 400kms old) and nothing in there - pulled plugs (were dirty) cleaned with carb cleaner - reassembled and it runs again, slighty ruffer than before but still happy **** - drive another 100+kms in between little towns back and forth **** - 2 days later go to start car NO IDLE what so ever, still has balls above 2 grand but anything less it hates - check leads, one is a bit burnt, replaced with a full set of brand new leads and new NGK cheap plugs - car is happy once again, although still not 100% 100+kms driven **** - 1 day later - start car no pedal needed drive for about 5kms, looses idle again, going down hill at 50km/ph car is trying to die, get to bottom of hill and its sounding like shit, need to floor it and pump the pedal like shit to get it started. Pre-stage my way onto car ferry. **** - pulled plugs looked at them and put them back in, car happy for about 5mins, then back to shit **** - change to $$$ NGK platinum plugs, recheck leads (O.K) check inside dizzy (O.K) car is happy, drive 200+kms without a hitch, after that car starts loosing idle again and hates anything under 1,500rpm, doesn't matter as Im going 100 and still has balls although backfire type sounds on decal are wierd - also removed fuel filter which was clean as a whistle **** PRESENT DAY car will start with no pumps and idle off the high speed idle, as soon as choke goes it looses idle and needs foot to the floor pedal pumping to start. sounds like shit below 2000, runs mint up top. Noticed front fuel bowl low but that shouldn't effect idle? WHAT AM I MISSING??? / KNOB , must get running right for Kumeu fanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Chucked a wideband on it? running rich as fuck somewhere and fouling plugs? shitty electrical/spark system not up to the task? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Adjust float bowl heights - if it is a Holley style carb then it's easy as fuck but I am leaning towards a vacuum leak. Like a loose inlet manifold or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 dont have a wideband (SAD) - was meant to be getting a tune but Magnum is way to busy, but super keen to get to Kumeu without looking like an idiot - running a china 65,000 Volt HEI thing, that looks/is brand new, but im starting to blame it - going to re-adjust float heights tonight, all vacuum ports are plugged bar the signal for the tranny and cant hear any obvious ones. Will try the carb cleaner method to see if something sneaky is happening I guess - will re-tourqe all manifold bolts but they have always been tight so god knows BOX OF BEER TO WHOEVER LEADS ME TO THE FIXABLE ISSUE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 old plugs were dirty (black), but i've seen 20 x worse that still ran a car fine new plugs are still cleanish - 3 bond grey any good to use to seal between carb and manifold? (only has paper gasket at the mo) - when you free rev it, it sounds like it tries to hit idle for a split second then goes PUTTER PUTTER PUTTER DEAD. (setting idle at 1000rpm) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Are you running one of those chinese knock off "MSD" units? (Pro-Comp or similar) If so then THROW AWAY and start again. They are complete and utter junk. I had a distributor of theirs and the trigger ring was sitting on a 30 degree angle on the shaft. Also have seen the inside of one of their "MSD" boxes and it was thin wires connecting together some capacitors that looked like they had spent their life in a nuclear waste pile under the sea. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 ahhhhh yeh one of those units, me thinks. We stripped it down a week or so ago hung over and it seemed oke (solid wires, connecters proper electrical goo crap where it should be, nice and clean and new looking insides) so if it aint a vacuum leak you reckon its that piece of shit playing up? best place to buy a decent replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 It's a chinese knock off of MSD. Down to the font and style of stickers etc but it's called Pro-Comp Edit vs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 summitracing.com probably cheapest unless there some good deals in nz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 it looks exactly like this, down to the same wires etc. coming off the side http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_691B%2FC%2FR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 it looks exactly like this, down to the same wires etc. coming off the side http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_691B%2FC%2FR Yeah I would try another distributor in all honesty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Agree with all of the above, chuck the procomp away. Do you have a spark tester? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 ahhh fuck will search for leaks when I get home and if none found will pay someone lots of money as I need it before the weekend - no spark tester, I have a multimeter if I can do anything with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 KNow anyone with a 350 who you can steal their dizzy to test? if you narrow it down to that you should be able to find a MSD/mallory dizzy setup before the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 As your lawyer I recommend you follow this course of action... Set carb float heights Test for vacuum leaks Hunt down a proven dizzy you can borrow Acquire your own proven dizzy at swapmeet Fit your own proven dizzy Aquire Dre Fuck bitches Smoke trees Profit 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Shall do the above although Dre is already next on the cars playlist EDIT yeh, but his one is just a new china poo one as well hahahaha. Not even sure If I could get the dizzy out easily without moving the whole motor forward this just looks like a knock off as well? and poo voltage http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/chevrolet/engines/auction-682925014.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Just a thought, what type of tach are you running? i've had a autometer go bad on me effectively sucking all the juice away from the primary of the coil making the car run shit due to a average spark. took tach out for something else unrelated and car magically ran sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 from what you described in your first post, it seems to be running rich? which is making it run shitty when its warm too much fuel pressure? although float levels would be high if that was the case Timing correct? not retarded at idle? Power valve wrong or damaged? should have blow out protection being a new carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Just found a lose manifold bolt and others needed a tweak, going to reset the floats now Car doesn't have to be warm for it to go wierd choke is set to only run for 30 seconds (electric) Running a bunch of the small old looking but new autometer gauges Car running is putting out 14v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Oh and vacuum advance is not hooked up and never has been*should I jam this on?Ok so no vacumm leak I just timed my rag on the carb wrongI pulled the wires off the HEI put them back on, it started and took a 3 minute video of it idling happy asIn gear the revs drop down to 450-500 but that's a tune issue (might need more tranny fluid also)Now starts off the key without touching the gas like it used toGave it some revs then a small one and a ball of fire from the carb burnt my eyelashes off.So is it a timing issue then?I'm chasing a ghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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