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355 chev - not idling giving me the shits


escortwags

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GETTING THERE.

 

OK so new HEI turned up is 100% genuine and is 6094358xbetter than it's china counter part (see below)

bunged it in last night and tried firing the bastard which was very hard to start.

 

Also note the tacho was going spastik while cranking and engine was sucking so much power the interior lights were going dim! (battery standing has 12.5volts so definitely enough juice) would kind of crank then go slow try fire repeat etc. did get it running although only holding idle for about 10 seconds sounded way to quite and had a delayed throttle.

 

I lined everything up with where the old dizzy was but think it's off a tooth clockwise (had issues aligning oil pump and think on first crank it sloted in deeper putting it off the mark where it should have lined up MUPPET!) which ill try fix tonight fingers crossed that's all it is?

 

shitty comparison photos below, any ideas on the spastik tacho?

 

 

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install process was as follows

 

- taped a mark where #4 point aligned to something on engine

- removed cap

- taped a mark where rotor aligned to something on engine

- removed

 

- installed new dizzy with rotor pointing at mark although not fully engaged in oil pump bit'

- aligned #4 point to the mark

- cranked it

- dizzy dropped down further which im guessing means it rotated further clockwise but would only be one tooth?

 

got running but barely

 

god im unlucky. Have a mate bringing over a timing light tonight, hopefully all goes well as we are leaving for Kumeu at 8am in the morn

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First thing - disconnect the tacho - sounds like it is wired up wrong. So eliminate that.

Check the wiring to the distributor is correct. I assume it is 2 wires?

Next the dizzy sounds to be out. Time it with a timing light.

 

I'll probably be online tonight if you are having problems still after your mate times it with a timing light.

 

Otherwie send me a text on 021 2500417

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sweet will remove tach wire tonight, and yes only a 2 plug system (12v and tach) on 100% correct

 

by googling it seems ive got the dizzy in  way way way to advanced which is causing the slow starter motor issues

 

but in theory if the dizzy rotated further clockwise than it should have wouldnt that have made the timing more retarded??

 

Will rotate one tooth counter clockwise and see if that fixes everything, failing that will plug #1 plug out get TDC and start from scratch

 

you will probably be getting millions of texts feel like coming to the shore tonight? hahaha will see how I go

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Just pop a plug and make sure you get TDC. Then I usually chuck the dizzy in with the cap off making sure the rotor stays on/near the mark I made for number 1 as it's so easy to jump a tooth. Then turn it over with the timing light on and see what's up. Doing it without a timing light is no fun, plus they are only like $50 and a invaluable tool.

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you will probably be getting millions of texts feel like coming to the shore tonight? hahaha will see how I go

 

I live in Wellington. So no not tonight... LOL

 

Also don't take a shortcut. Set the timing up right from the get go rather than going one tooth this way then that.

With a Chev distributor you should be able to turn it a full 90 degrees in place providing the HT leads are long enough and there is enough room around the firewall - put the pulley timing marks on 5 degrees BTDC and get the sensor trigger in line with the pickup in the distributor. That should give you an easy base to start with before using a timing light to get it correct. 8-10 BTDC with vacuum disconnected @ ~700rpm.

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sweet

 

will be lazy and try one tooth back as I'm sure thats what happened if that fails will get TDC and start from there.
Has some wierd after market timing pointer on it so hopefully there are degree markings for 0 etc

 

- would I assume if there are no marking that dead in the middle of the timing pointer is 0 and anything to the left would be BTDC?

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sweet

 

will be lazy and try one tooth back as I'm sure thats what happened if that fails will get TDC and start from there.

Has some wierd after market timing pointer on it so hopefully there are degree markings for 0 etc

 

- would I assume if there are no marking that dead in the middle of the timing pointer is 0 and anything to the left would be BTDC?

Anything anti-clockwise is BTDC (looking at the motor from the front of the car)

 

So yes left... LOL

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im 99% certain that I'm a tooth to far clockwise hence the massive advance
gar I'm over thinking things, will report back at about 6 either with a smiley face or drunken angry thoughts

 

Limited to the amount I can turn the cap due to firewall trying to be friends with it (get about 30 degrees of rotation

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Jumping "one tooth" failed turns over fast only one big back fire.

Going back to basics and setting tdc now just waiting for mate with timing light

Edit

Took all of 15 mins and the g/f bumping the starter to find TDC chuck the dizzy back in and what do you know it turns over at normal speeds and runs all be it at 0 degrees bring on the timing light

Also note now there is no black smoke on start up or soot spewing out the exhaust

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Mean. You should properly power time it  when you get back, and maybe borrow a wide-band and buy some jets (assuming you run a holley?) better yet put a bung in the exhaust and buy a wideband (about $200 IIRC). Probably cheaper to get setup than the dyno time and you be able to get it 99% sorted tune wise.

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