1Gesus Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33828-1gesuss-levintruenosupra/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hachi-ichi Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Pretty lucky pickin up a 1G GE full of bits, Im jealous. overall though, its an original different but extremely cool way to power an 85. I look forward to more progress! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1JZGE Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Looks pretty sweet so far, getting there.. nice colour too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 I have some info for when you get stuck for 1g rebuild parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1vaknd Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 so rad to see this ae is still around. i went to school with the dude that owned it when it was in nzpc. sweet project also btw. great motor great chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chuffaneilious Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Carnt wait to see more progress on this build, One to watch! Hope all works out good. Best of Luck. ~Chuff~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1Gesus Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 I have some info for when you get stuck for 1g rebuild parts. hey mate please divulge all your 1g knowledge. iv heard rebuilding 1gs isn't exactly straight forward. my mate here in new Plymouth is a engine rebuilder though and he's done 1gs, his one is actually on trade me at the moment. but yea im keen to hear what you have to say. cheers, Rory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hachi-ichi Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I'd love to hear any 1G info too haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Some people believe the 1G is a larger version of the mighty 4AGE but it actually shares a lot more with the old 4K lump other than some twin cam goodness... The most important puzzle piece for extracting a few more horsepowers from the 1G boat anchor is in the camshaft department. What you need to do here is find yourself a set of cams from a 1GGE as they are given a healthy 10% extra lift. Next on the equation will be some new valve shims, these are best found in a st165 celica or from a 16 valve 4AGE. Do not bother with aftermarket cams, If you plan on running past 8000 rpm go and buy a VTEC. If you want more than 400 flywheel HP buy a 2J. Hear porting – don’t bother mr Yamaha has done a great job no real gains to be had here the only thing i would consider would be an anti reversion step on the exhaust manifold – i’ll let you do your own research regarding the pro’s / cons of this bit of trickery. Moving downwards you will need new valve stem seals, once you have had a heart attack after pricing these up individually (about $7 each and you need 24) you will decide that full seal kit is a pretty good option (including head gasket and a whole lot of other goodies such as cam cover seals. Standard pistons are more than up to the task, but as you may or may not have found out rings are pretty much unobtanium (unless you have a large wallet) so here is where the 4k can help you out, of course you will need 1 and a half sets of rings. And this will do the oil control rings and lower compression rings. The upper compression rings won’t work as they are 1.2 mm thick. What you need to do is talk to Bowden engine parts dude and get a set of top compression rings from a D15A Honda ( I think this is a SOHC VTEC ones) which also has a 75mm bore. Standards rods are all good. – rod bolts can be replaced with ARP units from a 4G63T but i would not bother – read above regarding 8000+RPM Bearings – thrusts are available from the 1G (if you get really stuck I think I might have a spare set of new standard sized ones still in the box. Bearings Mains and BE – there are 2 different sized big ends – 42 mm and 44 mm i think the 42mm setup is a Gen 3 1GGTE setup which is not as common, the early 1G bearings once again can be donated from a 4K (one and a half sets of course) Oil system – here is where things get interesting, as you may or may not know the 1g has an appetite for # 6 BE bearings. What i did was drill the oil feed for the back main bearing out by 1mm (pretty easily done) then cross drill the crank oil feed out oversize too. From there shim up the oil relief for a bit more pressure (can’t remember how much extra i gave it but your engine builder should be able to assist) next is some porting of the oil pump galleries on the block, follow this up with some porting of the oil filter housing (especially facing rearwards towards that #6 big end) Head bolts – i have re-used a set of healthy looking OEM ones as they are not torque to yeild , but measurements suggest 1J head studs would work . ECU- i know nothing of the factory ecu. Injectors –plenty of options to upsize injectors I used Vr4 450cc units but evo 510’s of 560’s is what i would use next time – they will drop straight in to the factory rail setup. Disclaimer - the info above worked for me on my engine please check for yourself before going ahead. Cheers Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1Gesus Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Thanks matt, greatly appreciated. might add some info I've found/researched. 2jz ARP main stud kit will work for 1G mains and head bolts. Gen 3 crank is 44 mm and harder to get new bearings for. more on oil system, copied and pasted.. 1G-GTE Oil Mods There are a few things you can do yourself to improve it, as long as the engine is still in pieces. The first, is pull the oil filter off, and have a look at where the oil comes from the oil pump into where the filter screws on. Its the hole at the bottom. You can barely get your little finger in there. Grab a die grinder with a stone or pointy bur, and open up this hole. Don't just hog it out, but lay the edges back and round them over so not only is the oil coming through a bigger hole, it flows smoothly as it disperses. Imagine your porting a head and you want max flow, all nice and rounded. Next, take the timing cover off the front. Have a look down the bottom right side of the block. There are 2 holes, one is the suction side from the sump, the other the pressure side from the oil pump. Do the same here, rather than sharp corners, round these out and smooth them into the surrounding material. These are the first 2. If your still keen at this point, pull the threaded bit out of centre where the filter screws on. It goes in too far. Cut about 5mm off it, and held in a vice, radius both sides and round the corners so the oil flows around the corners into the block easier. You can radius inside the hole where we just pulled that piece out also, but I wouldn't advise this for the inexperienced, you can damage the thread in one little miss. be VER VERY careful, you only get to damage the thread once and its stuffed!! The next 2 are a little more tricky. The main oil galleries in the block that feed the mains are 7mm where it enters the bearings, but if you get a 7mm long shank drill and stick into the main oil holes, they are only 7mm for an inch or 2, then they go back to 6mm. Drill out main oil galleries 1 and 6(there are 7 main caps in total), the reason being, that the main oil gallery feeds the rods, and 1 and 6 rods/mains are the furthest from the centre where the oil feeds in, you don't want to increase them all, and don't do number 7, as it feeds nothing. I have 2 more mods done to mine, but I'll only divulge one of them. The bearing shells when sat in the block don't line up with the centre of the oil hole that feeds them, they are off to one side. You need to find someone with a dremel tool or something very very fine. You may be able to do it by hand with a very fine jewelers round file. Put masking tape on the bearing face and just uncover the hole in the bearing. Put some bearing blue on teh back of the bearing and push the shells into the block. The hole will leave an outline where it lines up with the shell. You want to file out the shell so it matchs this hole perfectly. I would get someone who knows what they are doing to do this. If your tricky you can do it yourself, but you need a scraping tool so when your done, you can cut/scrape a radius back on teh edge of the hole so its not sharp. When your done, give the shells the very lightest of rubs with scotchbrite green pads and soapy water. Make sure everything si clean first. Your just cleaning teh surface, not trying to scrath a new finish on it!!! There you have it. I have one more, but like I said, its staying with me. It is however not possible to do yourself and very tricky to do, an I don't know how many people out there "could" do it or have any idea how. Lastly, check your clearances. You want around .002" on the mains on a 400rwhp street engine and .002-.0023 on the big ends. For a 500+hp engine I'd go .0022" mains and .0025" on the big ends. Don't run thinner than 10w50 oil, and put a 1.2mm washer under the oil pump spring. If you use thinner oil, you will have very little oil pressure at idle when hot, less than 10-15psi. I personally run 15w60 Penrite oil, I think its HPR30. Street engines with tighter clearances you could run a 10w40 oil minimum, just keep an eye on hot oil pressure at idle. If its below 15psi, then chuck some thicker oil in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 yeah that looks like the detail from 6boost i'm pretty sure I did trim back the oil filter threaded fitting.. and that measurement for the shim sounds similar to what i ended up with in my motor.. (it's been a few years) i probably have some other photos etc if you get stuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chuffaneilious Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 "There are a few things you can do yourself to improve it, as long as the engine is still in pieces. The first, is pull the oil filter off, and have a look at where the oil comes from the oil pump into where the filter screws on. Its the hole at the bottom. You can barely get your little finger in there. Grab a die grinder with a stone or pointy bur, and open up this hole. Don't just hog it out, but lay the edges back and round them over so not only is the oil coming through a bigger hole, it flows smoothly as it disperses. Imagine your porting a head and you want max flow, all nice and rounded." Il defiantly be using this. Hehehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chuffaneilious Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Some people believe the 1G is a larger version of the mighty 4AGE but it actually shares a lot more with the old 4K lump other than some twin cam goodness... The most important puzzle piece for extracting a few more horsepowers from the 1G boat anchor is in the camshaft department. What you need to do here is find yourself a set of cams from a 1GGE as they are given a healthy 10% extra lift. Next on the equation will be some new valve shims, these are best found in a st165 celica or from a 16 valve 4AGE. Do not bother with aftermarket cams, If you plan on running past 8000 rpm go and buy a VTEC. If you want more than 400 flywheel HP buy a 2J. Hear porting – don’t bother mr Yamaha has done a great job no real gains to be had here the only thing i would consider would be an anti reversion step on the exhaust manifold – i’ll let you do your own research regarding the pro’s / cons of this bit of trickery. Moving downwards you will need new valve stem seals, once you have had a heart attack after pricing these up individually (about $7 each and you need 24) you will decide that full seal kit is a pretty good option (including head gasket and a whole lot of other goodies such as cam cover seals. Standard pistons are more than up to the task, but as you may or may not have found out rings are pretty much unobtanium (unless you have a large wallet) so here is where the 4k can help you out, of course you will need 1 and a half sets of rings. And this will do the oil control rings and lower compression rings. The upper compression rings won’t work as they are 1.2 mm thick. What you need to do is talk to Bowden engine parts dude and get a set of top compression rings from a D15A Honda ( I think this is a SOHC VTEC ones) which also has a 75mm bore. Standards rods are all good. – rod bolts can be replaced with ARP units from a 4G63T but i would not bother – read above regarding 8000+RPM Bearings – thrusts are available from the 1G (if you get really stuck I think I might have a spare set of new standard sized ones still in the box. Bearings Mains and BE – there are 2 different sized big ends – 42 mm and 44 mm i think the 42mm setup is a Gen 3 1GGTE setup which is not as common, the early 1G bearings once again can be donated from a 4K (one and a half sets of course) Oil system – here is where things get interesting, as you may or may not know the 1g has an appetite for # 6 BE bearings. What i did was drill the oil feed for the back main bearing out by 1mm (pretty easily done) then cross drill the crank oil feed out oversize too. From there shim up the oil relief for a bit more pressure (can’t remember how much extra i gave it but your engine builder should be able to assist) next is some porting of the oil pump galleries on the block, follow this up with some porting of the oil filter housing (especially facing rearwards towards that #6 big end) Head bolts – i have re-used a set of healthy looking OEM ones as they are not torque to yeild , but measurements suggest 1J head studs would work . ECU- i know nothing of the factory ecu. Injectors –plenty of options to upsize injectors I used Vr4 450cc units but evo 510’s of 560’s is what i would use next time – they will drop straight in to the factory rail setup. Disclaimer - the info above worked for me on my engine please check for yourself before going ahead. Cheers Matt Il buy the thrust bearings if ya still have them. PM send. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 You need to find a 1ggze cam angle sensor... that blanked distributor is still a bit hungry for room. Manifold looks nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Gesus Posted June 14, 2015 Author Share Posted June 14, 2015 I have one. But its too hard to make it fit i've found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PedRac3r Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Looks good dude. Good call on shifting that engine back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Looking good man.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Is that swagelok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Gesus Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 yea man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 You did a good job! I did some training course and got some thing saying I'm swagelok qualified but I don't much like working with the stuff. One little mistake and ya have to start from scratch haha. Their benders are top quality but using them under a car is a nightmare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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