1Gesus

So the ol 1g is running! Still a few issues to sort out. Mainly the ignition timing apparently changing when I turn it off then try to start again... I can't understand how it could though. Freaks me out. Anyway, here's a quick vid, shes a quiet thing and that's with only a dump pipe

If I had a 4age id probably go bankrupt spending all my money here > http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/386/4age-20v-plenum.html

Yea man had another go tonight and ground the cas like you said. fits better. doesn't turn much, but i can set base timing with the link i think Just need to find another 1gge housing cheers

Had another look at running the 1ggze cas with 1gge water outlet after seeing d.p.n.s do it. And also because i got this thermostat housing. Credit to mjrstar But making it all fit is another story. For all the material i had to take off left a hole in the housing, and its still pretty tight So now im on the hunt for another 1gge thermostat housing. Because I want my engine bay looking like this: Maybe you fellas mentioned at the start of the post can enlighten me on the finer details to making this fit without making a hole In other news, made up some turbo water lines. I'll put a sleeve on the on the goes down in between the manifold. But this meant my turbo oil feed hard line no longer fitted.

Last bits of tube bending done on fuel system For the vent, I've run a nylon tube up the pillar across the top and back down the other side. Wasn't too sure on the industry best practice with fuel tank venting. This should be OK I hope Not too keen on the colour of these fittings, reckon they look out of place.. should of got black ones I suppose Cooling system is pretty much sorted. I've kept it really simple, no heater etc. Only one line returning from the back of the head. Have decided to ditch the idea of running factory oil cooler, so I plugged that hole in the block. This motor was already setup to run without it. Looks like a restriction anyway. Welder had a hard time with this. Quite shite material apparently. Couple pin hole leaks unfortunately, should be easy fix though And then theres this.. pretty tight fit. Won't come off now. I'll put this adapter in if it proves unreliable being so stretched like that. New page would be good

Maybe confirm that your gauge is telling the truth

Cheers man (and flyingbrick), Yea its a pain in the ass, i'll prob go to braided line next time around. The stainless tube is a lot cheaper although the swagelok fittings make up for that.

Its pretty important to swage it correctly. We find so much stuff on the plant where I work that has been done by lazy cunts or dudes who have no clue. I was working on some shit and a tube let go next to me because someone hadn't swaged it right. Next thing there's 100 bar of steam venting to atmosphere, I'm lucky I didnt get my face burnt off lol But yea its good stuff

yea man

Overdue update Fuel system mostly done, went a bit overboard here. 3/8'' stainless tube, made the surge tank out of a used cal gas cylinder from work, bosch 044 pump etc Drive shaft made. 900mm of tube Really needed a hoist to make a proper job of these lines. Had to slide out from under car to make every bend. Managed to do each line in one piece which i'm stoked with even though there a bit kooked. Going over the diff was most painful Need some flexible lines to go here to the fuel rail Gearbox cross member mk2 And I've been working on the intercooler and piping Wanting to mount these coils on the cam cover so i can run short leads. Made up a bracket out of 3mm flat bar, its a bit flimsy under the weight of these coils so might have to beef it up a bit

where do you get this cover, what motor does it suit?

I have one. But its too hard to make it fit i've found

Turbo manifold finished. Made a start on the exhaust. Got a blank plate made for the dizzy, came out quite nice in stainless. 1/4'' stainless tube for turbo oil feed with swagelok fittings. Took so long to get right I will probably have to run the waste gate outlet towards the front then down and back. Well that's the easiest option anyway Discussion: http://oldschool.co....uss-1ggte-ae85/

Anyone delt with these "Johnny Joints"? http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx

I cant remember ever playing with a map sensor when changing motors etc. They have the AFM obviously on the intake. Maybe a map sensor for the factory pressure gauge?

Yea i wouldnt class them as oldschool, but there sweet so you should chuck it up I've got a jza70r. I converted it to manual too

Been making some progress / spending money The start of the turbo manifold. Not my work... Getting a certain company from Hamilton to do it. They got pretty close with the turbo position here, from a few photos and measurements I sent them. But it needs some changes. I also put the don mega 1g in Turbo sits too close to the head and distributor Heaps of room for the down pipe One T3 flange width out put the turbo in a good position Got a radiator. Cut the wings off Trimmed some of the top rad support away. I was hoping to drop it down a bit further so it would tuck in under the lip but that will require more cutting. Top hose will need some tight radius bends and new flange from thermostat Also got a set of coilovers from MRP along with there RCA's. front springs changed from 8kg to 10kg All is not well though as i'm still having issues with the POS hilux diff. Cant even put these bad boys ^ in the back because of the mounts being on kook angles. Over and Out

yea seems like it is welded on wrong. but if it was way out it would be hard to bolt the link to it, assuming the other mounts are in the correct position. But the diff goes in pretty easy. I'm trying to line up another standard diff to compare against. probably a ke70 one. pretty sure there the same

pinion angle seems ok. but the shock mount is also one of the four link mounts. so any modifications will move the whole axle. seems like the whole thing needs re-doing unfortunately

if you lower the roll center at the back you need to do it at both ends . all this does when you lower it will make the back springs softer and make the car squat in take off I don't quite see how making the bar flat at a certain height will make the springs softer.. Anyway, got more serious issues. This diff isn't right. Who has a jig for ae85/6 rear diff mounts? Or who in nz is a pro at doing hilux diff into ae85 conversion? I need to get it checked and fixed. The lower rear shock mount is on a big angle and more so on one side. Which is the same mount that connects to the trailing arm Other side new shock wouldn't go on if i tried

yea definitely a track car. oh yea ill have a look into that

The ae85 panhard diff mount needs to be welded to the hilux diff. I will need to modify the mount (not much) to clear to the bigger diff center. What is the best angle for the bar to be on or should it be ideally be horizontal? The car will probably be quite low so i was thinking if im going to modify it, I could space the mounting point down on the diff to have the bar horizontal when lowered. Or go to the next level and make multiple mounting points at different heights... Am I on the right track?

Motor + gearbox test fit clearances all pretty good except clutch fork, had to trim it. Would a 1jz fit? maybe

Almost a year since last update! haha got some important stuff done atleast Need a can of matte black Might save up for a cage or get some suspension next...still need a drive shaft...and to finish diff...and so on

I think the hoop has to be within 200mm of the front universal. that sound right?