Ridal Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 KA67 Carina + 5K. Currently the engine moves about quite a lot and I have already broken one manifold side mount. The standard mounts are made of two steel plates joined by vulcanised rubber. I will be installing side drafts and a bigger cam soon and the clearance between the carbs and strut tower will be small. What would be some options for stiffening up the engine mounts? I don't mind an increase in cabin noise or vibrations at all, just something that will stop the airbox/trumpets from being crushed and hopefully a tighter feeling driveline in general. What are peoples thoughts on a separate engine damper? Necessary if your mounts are good? Any suggestions are much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 mountain bike shocks have been used before (not the front forks : the wee ones usually under the seats) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridal Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I've seen that as well. Looks like they could work quite well but I'd probably fell better if the block was also held to the chassis a bit tighter. I imagine it would increase the feel of the engine/make more noise but that doesn't bother me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Mount a stabiliser mount further up and bolt to head or similar? that would be my suggestion. That or get a mount with a cage on top with rubber mounting top and bottom, look at heavy front drive V6 mounts at pick a part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridal Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ok I think I will make some kind of mount higher up the block or head, possibly with the rear bike shock. Would it be possible to remove the vulcanised rubber, drill the steel plate to accept a bolt and get a block of urethane and sandwich it in place of the vulcanised rubber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AG_Addict Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Autolign are able to make up Nolathane engine mounts doing something similar, I think they burn out the old rubber & refill with molten nolathane. We had a set made up for a workmates 4wd & were pretty happy with the results, i'll try remember to ask him what it cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridal Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ok well I may call in there tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'll report back in case anyone else is in the same boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AG_Addict Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 He seems to think it was about $100 per mount, and had to be sent to Autolign in AKL to get done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Using a mountain bike shock doesnt really work well (tried it) as they rely on being preloaded the whole time (weight of your arse) and the damper sucks nuts. Where as there is zero load on it when its connected to your engine/etc sideways. The shocks by themselves are pretty rubbish in my experience, although if you bought fancy ones brand new they might be good... But probably getting close to the price of a damper kit designed for a car anyway. I havent had too much issue with SA60 mounts + 200hp. I've seen mounts have the gaps filled with sikaflex then baked in the oven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I just got some Urathane ones from BNT for the Escort. Was about $120 for both. They are a Kelpro item and are far more solid that the rubber factory mounts. Here's their catalog, might find your car or something similar in there? Are the KE70 mounts similar? http://motospecs.com.au/index.php?page=download&file=Kelpro_Engine_Mounts_Ed8%28V8s%29.PDF&return=kelpro If you get the part number from the catalog and search for it on this site http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/ you'll get a photo. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin' joe Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 TWL do a heavy duty 'cotton reel' mount like the one pictured above. various sizing available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 just to ease your mind if you had considered it, solid engine mounts & rubber gearbox mount is fine. if you have a big cam/bridgeport your car lumps side to side at the traffic lights as the suspension becomes the engine mount, its fun. not particulary rough/bad at all. never done gearbox solid, but apparantly its noisy as. as a bonus, as you just run a bolt thorugh the whole sandwhich, it becomes super easy to install engine, literally just slam it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridal Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Would solid mounting the engines cause extra stress at any point? Would the cast inlet manifold be more likely to crack or anything like that? I'd like to solid mount it if there was no added risk of breaking things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 inlet manifold? specifcally on the exhast manifold, most people dont even run flexis, it can only be better to have it solid mounted. theres nothing to loose to try it yourself, seeing that it is <$10 materials. /its fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I did a bike absorber but might have done it on the wong side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 That way would be pulling on it not pushing on it won't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I have engine bay envy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridal Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'm leaning towards solid mounting so the bike shock wouldn't be necessary but it looks good in your engine bay. Does it do much work? I went in to see Simon at Surfab today and I think I'll get him to make me some solid numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Just FYI: From a legal/cert/wof/etc point of view, solid mounting is all or nothing. If you solid mount the engine, need to solid mount the gearbox too. Personally I'd just look at more robust rubber items, solid mounting will rattle your teeth/important nuts and bolts out for no real gain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 that got changed in the last hobby car manual update, can now have solid engine mounts with rubber gearbag mount. dont get a urethane/nolathane bush and run a bolt right thru the mount/xmember/bush like a lot of people do, specially with rotaries. if you are going to do that use a solid bush, steel or alloy, if using a compressible bush, the bolt can never be 100% tight and will come loose or oval out the mount holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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