AllTorque Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 SD Truck Springs. http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/suspension-air-bags/air-lift-air-bags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Che! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hey for those air springs where do the air lines run? Are they like air shocks and come out the sides they look like they come out the top but then how does air line get past everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Lines connect to the end of the bag. Instructions said to run the lines out the bottom but that seemed like a silly idea. I run them out the top and along the chassis to the rear bumper. There is a hole in the top of the top Spring mount. You also have the option of teeing the lines together or having two seperate valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hoses connect the the black bits on the bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thanks man, i think its better to have individual lines. If you tee them I have heard when you corner when the car leans the weight can force air out into the other bag. Im not sure to what extent it would actually do that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 That was my way of thinking too. Mine are split. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 I just looked up the coolant capacity so I know how much antifreeze to put in. It holds 15 litres!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 For Reference. To remove the instrument cluster, the dash pad must be removed first. http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/cluster.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Wher you get yellow bulbs from? Any way. Looks like you have been a busy boy. Good shit my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Yellow bulbs are from trade me and were really cheap. Like $15 a pair. As I said in the build thread, I'll probably ditch them because the heat from the 100w bulbs will likely ruin the reflector of the new lamps. I have been busy. The trip to Hawkes Boes will be in the dark and previously the headlights have been terrible. Pretty keen to see where I'm going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Badass! So your dash all back together and working a treat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Yep. Dash is sorted. So fancy having dash lights and a horn button that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 Another thing that never worked was the interior light. Mainly because it never had a bulb. I got one of those fancy modern led jobs and stuck it in. It goes all the time. Adjusted the door switch and flash harry light works properly. Probably should have fixed that a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Oh nice work mate, I see you have bought some adjustable suspension for your car. Goooood. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Ryobi one ways and a welded diff? Cutting the bonnet for a bug catcher? Welding up cracked Astro's? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 Yeah sure. Why not. Might attept to replace some rust with steel too. Any advice or links to "Make your wag less rusty for beginners" appreciated. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 I'd link to grunta's too, but his photos are all dead/pb'd 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 11 minutes ago, AllTorque said: Any advice or links to "Make your wag less rusty for beginners" appreciated. Tip #1: Heat distorts the shit out of the parent metal as well as the patch you're adding, so use as little heat as possible for the shortest time possible. Thin MIG wire, short welds with a cool down time, and practice will help. Failing that; smash it all down with a huge hammer and bog over the lot Tip #2: UJ has just about all of the tools, but he never works on cars because mint slice. If you wanna borrow anything just arsk. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Sing out if you'd like some help one weekend you handsome swashbuckler. More than happy to come and do some rust with you* *I don't know what i'm doing, but that hasn't stopped me doing some half decent repairs before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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