Rhyscar Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 doesn't take much to road register a race car even if it doesn't have compliance. there is a loop hole for competition cars to be road reigstered - just need to get it sorted with a authority card and the right paperwork from msnz to ltsa.. cars looking good too btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archetype Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 It would be easy if I had been aware of this before my rollcage was built: (d) Removal of a Manufacturer Occupant Protection System (MOPS): from a vehicle (primarily used for motor sport competitions) may be authorised under the Authority Card system. The vehicle shall be fitted with and comply with the following: (ii) A minimum Safety Cage as per diagrams 8.3(6)(d) below incorporating forward reinforcements (terminating at a substantial structure such as the suspension strut tower) in full compliance with this Schedule. My rollcage doesn't extend to the strut towers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 What's the cost for making it go through the fire wall to the strut towers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archetype Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Maybe $300-$400 for the bars and labour (just guessing). A couple of hundred dollars to have it professionally painted again. $82 to do the homologation again. So maybe $600 or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Then getting it road legal? I suppose this is pointless if you're going to pull it down in the off season though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archetype Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Additional wiring for lights, indicators, etc, a set of road wheels and tyres, motorsport authority card ($66), then just your usual WOF/rego after that I think. I'd probably do it while the engine was out between seasons anyway. Better get onto it soon if I want it running again for Round 1 later in the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 While the wiring wouldn't weigh much I assume you'd make this removable so you could keep weight down while on the track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archetype Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Nah, once the additional wiring is in, it'll stay in. My car is already pretty light as it is. I have to make sure I keep a bit of extra fuel in the car as it is, otherwise I drop below the minimum weight limit of 1150kg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 lights are easy, just run the 7 core trailer cabling, keeps it tidy as. this is what we ran in a mates laurel drift whore that he was gonna road reg. if you want a hella headlight switch ive got one sitting here doing nothing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 minimum weight limit of 1150kg. Damn that's heavy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 LOL We are too scared to weigh our mustang. would be no fear of it going under that limit though haha Still has all the door steel, side intrusion bars, electric windows, glass etc. The thing is a tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 FDs are around the 1280kg mark from factory, some of the light weight editions were 1180kg. I don't think it would be hard to get one under the 1100kg mark if you had the $$ to do it. If you could make a carbon fiber tub for them they would hit sub 1000kg / day dreaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archetype Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 That includes my weight too though, so minus 87kg = 1063kg for the car. One time I weighed the car at Manfeild after a few test laps and it was 1132kg from memory. I then ran out of fuel as I was pulling into my pit area, so that gave me a good idea of what the car weighs with an empty tank. There are a few things I could do to drop the weight further if necessary - lose the extra seat, trim the door inners a bit, replace the windows with polycarbonate/lexan, and swap the heavy steel hatch for a fibreglass one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 What kind of power are you making? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 A fully optioned standard Stang is about 1580 with a full tank of gas. I would say our car is around the 1400-1500 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 I don't think it would be hard to get one under the 1100kg mark if you had the $$ to do it. If you could make a carbon fiber tub for them they would hit sub 1000kg / day dreaming. man you talk some crap Brent, when you weigh the car at the track is it with corner weights? How do these cars balance up? I imagine there'd be a little bit of time in getting it as close to 25% on each corner as possible, which probably wouldn't be too hard if you are already under the minimum weight and haven't even removed glass or cut up the hatch. You could pull some weight out of the body of the car, then remove as much weight out of the front and add ballast low and towards the back of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 From factory these are damn near 50/50 weight distribution. With all the shit he's removed from the front end of it I wouldn't be suprised it he's rear heavy currently. Talking shit is my forte. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 From memory, talking to my neighbour, he said his is rear heavy. Tricky to add weight up front again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Just read this whole thread, love it.Weird about being rear heavy, I'd have thought a stripped out car would always end up more biased towards the end with the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 It's due to the fact all the panels in the front are aluminium, and there's bugger all metal in front of the firewall excluding the motor. The engines are mounted far back in the engine bay and the gearbox is between the front seats pretty much. The rear body has a shitload of steel in it, along with a heavy subframe, and they have a big rear overhang compared to the front. Rear hatch is also damn heavy, with the bonnet weighing next to nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.