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replacing fues with circuit breakers...


sholdowa

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You could possibly try emailing the company that produces them to et a more detailed specifications

http://www.snapaction.net/index.htm?include=mx5.inc

also these seem to be the same sort of thing but i have not had any personal experience with this brand unlike the others.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html

With the first breakers i was talking about they will automatically reset either straight away (before breaking again) to control the current or they may reset after a set time, it is a while since i have tripped them, although i could test this if you wish.

Im afraid i cant give any more help in where to attain them, or if they are even available in the country as the ones i use have all been imported from the USA.

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Those jaycar SF2252-61 ones are fairly average from what i've seen and big. (have a broken treadmill at work ATM where that thing broke)

Will have a quick hunt through some suppliers tomorrow for you. Doubt you'd want to but you could run PTCs (resettable fuse) they just get hot when too much current flows and then break circuit. Really only good for when you have a direct short or something or else they take a little time to 'blow' but then once you fix the fuck-up, it cools down and works again (simplest explanation i could think of)

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images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRYf4iU5UJtPz9R0GUAD_uuH_GKcpY9BLm_uxGBYIp5FCSu_zMr4xVP4hA

You can always go for the good old demestic DIN mount MCB.

Plus there is many sizes of MCB enclosures on the market.

They are normaly priced between $5 - $10 each

The biggest problem with automotive C/B's is there poor ability to interupt high foult currents with out blowing there guts out. A cheapy will only trip once of twice under a good short.

When selecting a C/B you need to take a good look at its maximum rated DC short circuit current. The larger the battery and cable the more current it can give during a short circuit. Add an audio capacitor and look out foult currents.

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images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRYf4iU5UJtPz9R0GUAD_uuH_GKcpY9BLm_uxGBYIp5FCSu_zMr4xVP4hA

You can always go for the good old demestic DIN mount MCB.

I was hoping someone would mention this... I am a total idiot when it comes to this. So it doesn't matter whether it's AC or DC then? A 10A circuit breaker is 10A for 12V DC as well as 240V AC?

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Na, but you can get din mounted MCB's (miniature circuit breakers) rated for DC.

Basically, since AC is all groovy like and goes negative half the time it is easier to switch.

DC is all I'M MAX VOLTAGE ALL THE TIMEEEEEE BROOOOOOOO so it's harder to fuck it off.

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DIN mount MCB's are good for DC and AC currents.

There used to protect DC currents in switchboards all the time.

Yes it’s true that on a percentage basis there is lower arks generated when opening and AC current rather than a DC current. This is well known and means a switching component designed for AC is normally dramatically derated when used to switch DC. This however leads to a common assumption that MCB's would need to be derated or not up to job of DC currents.

Instead of a derating system, MCB's use a more accurate maximum breaking current rating, plus for many other reasons. Basically if a MCB is rated at 6000 amps breaking it is capable of suppressing a 6000 amp ark regardless if it’s AC or DC current.

You just need to calculate a maximum fault current for your automotive system to ensure it will do the job.

Well take a 10amp 6000AmpMax DIN mount MCB and wire between the positive and negative of your car battery and keep resetting and see how long it lasts. Once it's too hot and wont reset again, let it cool down and go for it again. You will be there a long time before you wreak it. (Don’t try this at home).

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