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Lamda sensor in my downpipe for geeky info on the run...


yoeddynz

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I would like to fit a air/fuel mixture sensor (lamda?) into my down pipe and then put a readout inside somewhere. I imagine this is possible- surely? What is the most common size thread/boss that they screw into and where is the best place to...place it?

Is there a nice cheap readout available? Bear in mind this will be about as techy as my induction system will get- I just like the idea that while I'm driving along I can see whether what ratio my engine is running at rather than concentrating on other minor things like cyclists and prams (not that prams should be on the road anyway)

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sweet! I'll fit one. where is the best place- I guess anywhere near the turbo outlet on down pipe eh?

I found this item...

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

And they have a forum...

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/foru ... ay.php?f=7

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy over my head- I was too scared to evne look at the topics. It seem there are more people interested in this than I thought? Do people actually go out and tune their cars using just one of these alone?

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I have one of these which i am very happy with.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 431072.htm

the logworks software supplied with it is easy as to use and gives the ability to datalog on a laptop rather than having to rely on looking at the gauge in real time. although you can just watch the gauge if you wish..

as for position they tend to suggest around 8'' from the turbo and face it downwards if possible.. But it's not too much of a worry, if you consider that tuners get away with putting them up the tail pipe with a shroud to prevent fresh air mixing.

I found a cheap source for the boss was the cast dump pipe from a skyline, they have the correct sized boss that unthreads.. i just welded one of these into the dump pipe.. Although you could probably just use a nut and grind it down to suit.

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A few people on here have Wideband setups on here, I would look at borrowing one for a few weeks and doing a few data logs (you can input RPM and boost into a decent controller to give some more relevant data). You should be able to then get your tune correct and leave it. I don't think its something you need all the time on a gauge, maybe if you had a ECU that logged it and went into "safe/limp" tune if it went out of range. Wideband O2 setups can cost anywhere from $300 to over $1k, EDIT: that link above is about as cheap as its going to get for a decent sensor and guage setup

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i usually just grab a m18 1.5 nut from a bolt shop. use the whole nut or boss. only the tip of the sensor has to be in exhaust stream. can also help with over heating/cooling of the sensor. best to run the sensor on the top of the pipe as above. as helps prevent water shock from condensation, which kills wideband sensors. isnt too much of an issue, if not a permanent install though. not too close to turbo either

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Cool- Me likey. Exhaust all done now and yeah- I bought a 18 x 1.5mm nut which is now welded on the top of the down pipe about 150mm from turbo.

I will plug it for now and work out what I can afford. Really bloody excited- I want to start this car up next week! many many things to do....

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narrow band outputs a very non linear 0-1v. they produce there own power. can be single wire. or heated. basically only give a good reading around stoch. hence "narrow band" they are there for emissions and to keep the cat converter happy.

widebands are 5 wire heated, need a controller to make them any use. but give you good fuel ratio readings accross the range.

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Narrow band just has way way lower resolution. The nrarrow band sensors have one wire, the wideband ones have 5. (Although one mite be for the heater wire to burn any crap off the sensor)

Yea as KPR said. Its not lower resolution just non linear and only works well around stoch, they are the same type of sensor just the wideband has a gas pump on it which keeps the sensor constant. You can then tell how lean or rich it is by how much the current the pump uses. The heater is there because the sensor only works effectively at high temps, it gets it up to temp quickly rather than waiting for the exhaust to heat it up

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