Jif Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I just brought a really really cheep corolla. It runs mint, does not over heat and has plenty of anti-freeze in it, but when you are driving it the temp gaudge goes up and down with the revs(kind of like a boost gaudge does) if you are going fast on the hills. This looks like eletric weirdness to me but might just be some thing simple. Anyone got any idears on what it is? Its a standed gaudge and engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulloc Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 its prob just getting got goin uphill. Is it auto? may need oil flushed/ changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 How quickly linked is the temp gauge to the engine RPM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Blocked radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 its prob just getting got goin uphill. Is it auto? may need oil flushed/ changed. Its manuel and it mainly does it up hill, but if you are thrashing the car it will also do it on the flat. How quickly linked is the temp gauge to the engine RPM? When it hits 3000rpm the gaudge goes from cold to hot at the same rate as the revs and dies off when you lift off, just like a boost gaudge. The car is naturally aspirated. Blocked radiator? It does not over heat so I dont think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 its prob just getting got goin uphill. Is it auto? may need oil flushed/ changed. Its manuel and it mainly does it up hill, but if you are thrashing the car it will also do it on the flat. How quickly linked is the temp gauge to the engine RPM? When it hits 3000rpm the gaudge goes from cold to hot at the same rate as the revs and dies off when you lift off, just like a boost gaudge. The car is naturally aspirated. Blocked radiator? It does not over heat so I dont think so. no getting eletrical intereferance from the tacho is it?? . havent played with any wires in there recently? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Do other electrical gauges do the same thing? Could be the in dash voltage regulator.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 It's spelt gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 no getting eletrical intereferance from the tacho is it?? . havent played with any wires in there recently? Havn't played with any wires but it as a zillion ks on it so could have frayed wires. Will have a look Do other electrical gauges do the same thing? Could be the in dash voltage regulator.. All the other gauges are fine. Will this be in the fuse box or behind the dash? It's spelt gauge. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 usually the voltage stabilizer in in the gauge cluster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulloc Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 i dont see why it would be wiring/electrical when the temp is coming up after the engine is forced to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 On toyotas the issues is normally a bad connection on the temp sender, which makes the gauge wiggle and turn off all the time. This sounds like you have a clogged radiator or an airlock in the system that is making it heat up under load. The waterpump could be on the way out too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 On toyotas the issues is normally a bad connection on the temp sender, which makes the gauge wiggle and turn off all the time. This sounds like you have a clogged radiator or an airlock in the system that is making it heat up under load. The waterpump could be on the way out too. The engine is fine and does not over heat. i dont see why it would be wiring/electrical when the temp is coming up after the engine is forced to work. The gauge goes up at the same speed as the revs and is fine under 3000 revs. usually the voltage stabilizer in in the gauge cluster Thanks kk I will have a look when i can be fucked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 So it starts from completely cold and goes to completely hot at the same rate as your revs over 3000rpm? Or it goes up to halfway and no further? Check the connection with the temp sender. Pull the sender out and clean it up, make sure it has a good connection with the head (that's how it's earthed). If that doesn't work, steal the sender from a corolla that you spot up the road and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barf Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 ground your temp sensor better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 ground your temp sensor better That makes so much sense I should have throught of it myself. Will do it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barf Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 if while you're at it, you want a cheap spark upgrade, connect your spark plug receptacles to the battery negative. i think HKS sell some kit to do that. don't connect to painted stuff tho. ground is just as important as power supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 if while you're at it, you want a cheap spark upgrade, connect your spark plug receptacles to the battery negative. i think HKS sell some kit to do that. don't connect to painted stuff tho. An old guy in my town has an EA ford and a rusty and very badly patched up morry minor with one of those fitted to both cars and the both run sweet. On my celeste I removed the ballast resistor and fitted a 12v coil and condenser so its 12v all the time now, I would reccommond doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 On my celeste I removed the ballast resistor and fitted a 12v coil and condenser so its 12v all the time now, I would reccommond doing this. Why oh why? All you'll get is shittier starting. I can kinda see the thought pattern... If the system boosts the voltage at the coil to 12V while cranking to get a more powerful spark, why wouldn't I want that better spark all the time? Sweet, remove the ballast resistor. Oh wait, that'll overheat my coil, as its designed to run at 8sih volts... Sweet, replace it with one thats meant to run at 12V... Now you've got 12V connected to a coil thats meant to run at 12V, producing a totally normal spark... Just like you did when you had 8ish volts running to your old coil which was meant to run at 8sh volts... But you've lost the ability to temporarily make the spark more powerful when your cranking... Ballasted systems are sweet, just make sure its working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barf Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Why oh why? All you'll get is shittier starting. Why? Could you please explain that? Now you've got 12V connected to a coil thats meant to run at 12V, producing a totally normal spark... Just like you did when you had 8ish volts running to your old coil which was meant to run at 8sh volts... But you've lost the ability to temporarily make the spark more powerful when your cranking... How is the spark made more powerful durink cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.