shizzl Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 this is for all you folk who seem to be able to put any engine into any car... how do you adapt an engine to a gearbox that doesnt bolt up? id like to put a mazda v6 into our proceed seeing as nothing is selling these days.. ive been told no other engines will bolt up to the proceed gearbox (except a 13b if you swap bhousings), i dont want a rotor in it, im over those... a v6 will give me a bit more pow for towing...a luce v6 has 193hp as opposed to the proceeds 121hp or there abouts..... i have thought about putting a ht18 turbo on the g6 proceed motor, cos ive got one here in the shed, it should work ok as the proceed has fairly low compression, however i think the injectors wouldnt be up to it.... so, any thoughts/advice/offers of engineering greatness on how to get a v6 to bolt up to the box... a v6 will fit as ive seen a proceed on tardme with a holden 6 in it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 depending on the engine/gearbox you can sometimes put an adaptor plate between the bellhousing and engine, or between the bellhousing and gearbox (if you have a bellhousing that fits the engine but not the gearbox). if you do either of those you will probably have to space the flywheel and input shaft bearing somehow as now the input shaft is further from the engine. also the input shaft of the gearbox has to fit the ID of the bearing in the crank which might need an extra bush or changing the crank bearing to a different one etc. you can see there a quite a few things to sort out and it mostly requires quite accurate machining. This is why its much more common to transplant an engine with a matching gearbox in cars. But this can be trickier on a 4x4 as you have the transfer case which is usually bolted directly to the gearbox so you cant just swap in a new engine and gearbox and weld up a couple of engine and gerabox mounts, and get a simple driveshaft made to suit. If you get a gearbox from another 4x4 you have to have the outputs in the right places to suit the diffs and adapt 2 shorter, possibly double cardan driveshafts. do the luce and proceed engines share anything? could you build up a procced engine with luce heads/internals or something? might be easier. although still alot of stuffing about for a vehicle thats not worth much and your probably not very interested in. To be honest if it's not broken and still goes I would just leave it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Watch out, those Luce motors arent up to much, to be honest Procede boxes have their issues too. 5th gear falls to bits and/or the mainshaft to imput shaft bearing collapses. The 2.6 procede motor is Mitsubishi based, could you use a 4g63t? Or Holden v6 adapted to a hilux gearbox in your mazda? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 So many options here. Im a big fan of putting a V6 in your proiceed. But the questions are; How much do you want to spend. ? What do you want out of your ute ? Do you want auto or manual ? IMO the Luce engines are turds. A much much better engine would be a Mazda KLZE V6 that of coarse is if you set on putting a Mazda V6 in. A cheaper option is a V6 ecotech commy engine. No V6 will bolt up to your current mazda 5 speed box. Im pretty sure the proceed has the same box cosmetically as a first gen RX7 or MX5 or if its a 2.6 it may have the box with the removable bellhousing ? Either way, nothing other than a rotary or 4 cylinder will bolt up. Check out this link i just found in relation to the Mazda K enines. http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baj ... E_cars.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 what made me really think of this again, was a 3l 24v dohc luce motor,ecu and loom for 300 thats up for grabs... the klze is that the 2.5l? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Sometimes you just decide to fit an engine because its cheap. I can relate as i will often do that myself. If the luce engine you have been offered has an auto trans then it would make for a great conversion. Depending on how much of the instal you can do yourself will depend on what the whole conversion will cost all up. But then you could buy a V6 commy engine with trans, loom etc for $300 Most likely the same sort of power as the luce engine tho i guess. Grab a tape measure and do some measuring. You may find the luce engine is too wide and will interfere with the brake booster or steering shaft. Then theres the sump, sure you can mody it but is the luce sump alloy or steel ? Just things to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Watch out, those Luce motors arent up to much, to be honest Procede boxes have their issues too. 5th gear falls to bits and/or the mainshaft to imput shaft bearing collapses.The 2.6 procede motor is Mitsubishi based, could you use a 4g63t? Or Holden v6 adapted to a hilux gearbox in your mazda? Not all 2.6 Proceeds use the Mitsubishi motor - he said his is the G6 which is Mazda's own motor, before Mazda had their own big capacity four cylinder motor they used the Mitsubishi 4G54. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 thanks andy... i have just decided to put the ht18 on the g6...hahaha... not after huge power, just a bit extra than what its offering,, j pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 teh technucklalitys of doing it? make a tempory man sized bush to locate the center of the crank to the center of the spugget shaft get plate of arriminum cut a whole in middle, put between gbox and motor rotate gearbox and motor to required angle drill back thru bolt holes of gearbox and motor tap holes/put studs in. put in boot & tell local clutch man to provide a clutch/space flywheel/hatever. (i just rang autoclutch and said xyz) phosphor bronze bush for spigget bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 still considering a engine swap in my new proceed pick up... its got lifter noise and mega kms....its a toss up between a rebuild of the current 4 banger, or an engine swap.. id like to keep it in the mazda rwd family, cos the removable bellhousings mean i could swap bellhousings over on the boxes and bolt an engine on.. from memory(fuzzy as) its a similar box to the mx5 5 speed.. i wanna make a list of mazda motors that were available in rwd form in manual... so 12a 13b 13bt g6 r2 rf wl wlt whatever the v6 turbo is out of the luce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/234666-rwd-bell-housing-differences-slant-straight-new-project-pics-too.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noel Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Google Mark Walford. Those of us in Speedway circles use him alot. He isn't fast but his bellhousings are the goods. Will make a bellhousing to fit anything. Search "engineer" on macgor.co.nz forums to find out more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 i used HRP bellhousings in my stockcars, mainly because they had them ready to go.. mark has always offered plenty of advise with set up and things...will be spending up large with him very soon.. but not with rd cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Is what I'm doing eh? Hopefully next week I'll buy some plate and make the adaptor to go between my rx7 box and the Mazda k series v6. These engines seem very cheap and pretty easy to adapt. And bloody lightweight. I can trace the finished item and send it to you. Claire on locost.co.uk makes adapter kits to suit mx5 boxes using 16mm plate. But the starter solution looks ugly and involves chopping a big section out of bell housing. The Rx7 bell housing puts starter much closer and use rx7 starter. But involves a bit more machining work. Flywheel gets moved back same amount to suit. Spigot sits inside flywheel so moves with it - which is nice. And its exactly same bearing as rx7. Clutch from 1.8 v6 or 1.8 mx5 works perfect. Splines are the same as rx7 NA or mx5 box I don't like idea of Hanging flywheel 16mm off back of crank as in my mind any inbalance is going to throw more pressurenon rear main. I'm gonna make my adaptor from 12mm and machine up steel inserts for bolts. I think it should be fine. And cheaper. And easier to cut. Claire's adaptor thingee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 so your just gonna use an adaptor plate? what flywheel are you using? most ive seen have been autos.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 get an engineer/ machinist you trust to chop two bell housings in half, add locating spigots and then weld good halfs together? I watched someone adapt a 1uz to fit proceed and get it installed in one weekend doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 did he keep it 4x4? had it over the pit at work yesterday, the g6 sump is notched at the rear to clear the front diff head... saying that though ill be doing a 2" body lift, so it can give it a little more room if needed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 yep kept proceed box. easy as hell for a decent machinist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 did custom sump. I think we cut the bottom off and flipped it. can't really remember. I just watched him doing bell housings ( this wax before I got my trade) and thought this is the coolest thing ever. to do an adaptor plate properly I would machine up some shaft extensions that I could slip over the gearbox input and bolt to engine output to extend the shaft out through the bell housings so that measurements can be taken from dowel and bolt holes to the shaft. then draw in cad. unsure how people do it when they do lots of them but that's how I would or make flanged sleeve to locate gearbox input into centre of crank shaft so that plate can be drilled and marked in place.. but that's pretty rugged and I think could be asking for problems ( easy for weight of gearbox to pull things to funny places while you drill and mark. but I'm totally unsure as to the tolerances required and this may be adequate. I wouldn't worry about flywheel spacers being bad. with the correct spigots ( male and female ) on the spacer it should line up and be just as central and balanced as before. if you are really worried then get fly balanced before you run it just to be sure. edit just thinking. whichever way you do it you can throw the lot together without fly and clutch and use a dial indicator to check alignment ( would be tricky but could expose issues that will affect reliability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 OK I was gonna do something like this... A sleeve to hold input shaft tight and true as they always move. A boss that fits onto input with a outer diameter the same as the crank end. Then holesaw a piece of perspex to suit. This I lay over upturned block, mark out holes and outline. Reverse and do the same on bellhousing. Then transfer to alloy plate. The sump is steel btw- nice and easy to cut and shut in what ever fashion needed. the pump pick up is right at front of engine. Luckily my Viva needs a front bowl sump, same as the 12A so not too much pissing about there. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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