fuel Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 my viva would crank over for what seemed like hours on end until it caught on when it was cold first thing in the morning. Often just the right amount of choke would get it running. Though once it was mildly warm it would start just by looking at the ignition key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 ^ standard stromberg/su stz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 I left my avenger sitting for a few months. Slapped a battery in and fired up on 2nd compression. Was scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 well we had a prety mad frost this morning and car was outside at the gf's. turned over pretty slow, had full choke but it took like 10-15 seconds..... the quest continues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 check that you have a good battery - batteries are at there most inefficent when cold... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 yeh ill do that. whats the best way to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 An auto sparky can do a load test on it. They used to do them for free at Repco/SC but last time I tried there they had stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 most places do em for free - but they will nearly ALWAYS say your battery is poked.. A cheats way to do it for yourself is to remove your coil lead and take off the acid fill caps to look inside your battery - have someone crank over your car while you look inside the battery with a torch - if you see many small bubbles rising on one or more of the holes its a fairly good indicator the cell/s are poked.. you may need to wind over the engine till it slows down to half its normal cranking speed for this to take effect... also if your battery is more than 3 years old its most likely done its dash - they do last longer but the expected lifespan for a car battery is 2 years.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 I think supercheap here still do them so I'll shoot in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 What KK said + you could try the battery reconditioner stuff you put in the cells to clean all the scale and shit off the plates. Oh and clean those contacts up, go nuts with a wire brush on everything and make that shit sparkle. Some grease on the battery terminals will stop it getting some fuzzy white stuff growing on thurr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 I'm just having a similar problem. I guess the reason for a long crank over is just about endless. Currently the old Hillman will crank for half a minute when it’s cold in the morning and then will work like new for the rest of the day. I decided to do a compression test. When cranking the motor over with no plugs in it, #2 cylinder was squirting antifreeze out the sparkplug hole and all up my arm. So put the plugs back in and it work fine now. Compression test is spot on when the motor is hot. Plus no sign or oil in the water or vice versa. The head gasket must of fixed itself or it has a cracked cylinder sleeve is most likely, in my case. So yea could be anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 right. Its fucking cold here at the mo, everything is iced up and it wont fucking start. i even got up for my 8am lecture! dirty cunt. anyways, the negative terminal/lead on the battery gets well hot, and then where the positive lead bolts to the starter solenoid thingy, it also gets well hot. Is this just from me trying to start it? or could that mean something isnt right? might just invest in a big fuck off battery edit - oh i forgot to say, it was turning over really slow to start with, and now the battery is rather flat from trying to start it (fucking left the jumper leads at home) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 edit - oh i forgot to say, it was turning over really slow to start with, and now the battery is rather flat from trying to start it (fucking left the jumper leads at home) That is a big problem DO THIS - "I might just invest in a big fuck off battery" AND THIS.... fit a new power lead from the battery to the starter motor solenoid - like this fit a new earth lead from the battery to the engine block (close by the starter) - like this and an earth lead from the block to the body - like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 Oh yay more money haha. At the mo the block earth from the battry is attarched to an inlet manifold stud,that good enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Not really. Most are attached to the engine mount/cross-member bolts. Seems weird to attach it to an inlet manifold. Is the inlet cast iron or alloy? If it's only getting contact from the top half of the cable mount against the bottom of the bolt head, that would be a bit hamburgers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 sorry, its the exhaust manifold (its early morning...haha) ad its cast. Ill shift it anyway, try find a bolt on the block. Ill pull all the leads off an d clean them all (they arent visibly crudded up but you never know) and relocated the block earth. See if that helps before I splash out on new bits and bobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 ^ good plan. Would pay to check every and clean every high current connection, just to be sure they are working effectively. Just changing it from the exhaust manifold to the block may solve the issue too. I can't imagine it would be a particularly good conductive path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 put the earth from the battery as close to the starter motor as possible - on the starter motor mount bolts of you can.. and X/H manifold is a bad conductor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 sweet cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Any idea what the voltage at the coil is while cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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